The Bogan

I'm at bloody work, Aaaaaarrrrrrrrgggggggg

I stand corrected, I still like more side wall though, 93mm for the 265/35 or 106mm for the 265/40, I would go the 40 as a minimum. As for 235/35 at 82mm or 235/40 at 94 mm, for the street that extra 12mm comes in handy But yes, IM WRONG, sorry for causing any missinformation.

Blits in Brisbane

Put in a couple of extra dollars and get R34 GTR Seats, ADR (legal) and they are a sweet seat, no point in spending $1500 on seats that you have to remove if you get defected for them, for around $2000 you can get genuine Nissan R34 GTR seats that will bolt straight in. Do the $1500 seats have rails included, they will cost at least $500 for a decent set at least. Shop smart, shop S-mart

Must meet ADR rules, AFAIK no guards and only 1 supplier in Aus meets ADR for Fibreglass bonnets. A engineer may be able to pass them, maybe.

Its called a sidewall, smart people get tyres to suit the driving conditions, they look good for the street where pot holes and rough roads will make having lower profile tyres a PITA, me, I wont go any lower than 40 series even on a 265 for the street or the track. currently running 245/45 17 on the street myself and they are awesome on the road and good enough to do 12.2 at the drags. Whilst I do admit low profile tyres can look good they are a PITA unless you always drive on fresh smooth blacktop, or if you dont mind the harsh ride and damaged rims.

Have a look in the suspension area for a thread by sydneykid, lots of good info on all styles of set ups for performance and handling.

Your spark plugs will rust.

F ark how it looks, its a skyline not a lambo, how does it handle, and is it street friendly, getting the ride height correct for handling will not only make your car more fun to drive your exhaust won't be left on a speed hump and you can enter a driveway without ripping your front bar off. Measure from center of your rim to the guard, should be around this. Front 355 Rear 345 I'm not claiming to be a expert, far from it, its just I've spent a lot of time researching this for my car, with a geometricaly correct ride height my car is a lot better now that I've lifted it up a bit so the suspension can work correctly.

Elec fans save about 5hp, Ill wind in a extra 0.1lb of boost and get it back. the constant draw also makes the altenator work harder, double edged sword IMO.

Dates and venues please, If its in Syney I would love to come and say hi and see her in the flesh during her first shake down. I even have the tyre pressure guage you gave me, which sir both it and me are at your disposal.

Balanced motor, Tomei pump, and Ross balancer, mine is limited to 7500 but I shift at 7200, the only problems Ive had was restricting the oil to the head, thats fixed now and Im loving the car, the down low power from the 30 makes up for the lack of high end revs I feel. I am also running a TO4Z and making 355, 25/30, I must admit that Ive only had I day at the creek so far but it was run in for 400Ks then went to the drags on the SAU drag day which seen it have about 30 runs. From what I understand you dont want to rev the 30 past 7500 if you want it to last. Im loving the 30 Thoughts...

Oh yes

I've been told by my tuner that for under 300 killerwasps the stock setup is the best for response, longer runners or something, I'm now running a China spec plenum and China spec throttlebody, face was machined and cleaned out the ports, done and dusted, new China spec gear is not like the old stuff.

I've been told by my tuner that for under 300 killerwasps the stock setup is the best for response, longer runners or something, I'm now running a China spec plenum and China spec throttlebody, face was machined and cleaned out the ports, done and dusted, new China spec gear is not like the old stuff.

http://www.blitsbodykits.com.au/nissan.html they have a heap of styles and can do custom work. And they are ADR compliant, I've just got one for my 33 GTST, nice fit.

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-' timestamp='1320561346' post='6097171] get new clutch fan There ya go, fixed. Or get thermos and put up with the hassles and risk that go with them.

Not for FNQ

3 of the 3000 fish I got in 09, its been to long between drinks. Ive got 3 mths long service leave next year though, me thinks its time again. Just got to watch out for the Crocs, almost got eaten trying to get the stupid Grouper back in the water, LOL.

When Im in your part of the world with work Im loving the fishing My PENN 950 with 50lb braid/leader/trace on a PENN steel tip pro 7' rod for the sharkies, a ABU GARCIA cardinal with 20lb mono for bait for the sharkies, and a little SHIMANO PX2000 on a JARVIS WALKER travel mate with 8lb for spinning in the shallows whilst I wait for the PENN or ABU to scream. Best Ive had was at Mapoon FNQ, hooked everything, even got a Saw Fish off the beach, which of course was released. Reefs, Whalers, Hammer Heads, Barra, Queens, Jacks in the rivers and 11ty million breams, I even got a grouper on hand line, awesome trip, Ill look for some pics, post up you pics to motivate me to get up there again. P.S Sydney fishing is rubbish.

GASKETS

On a side note my old stock Turbs ran at 14lb for about 12mths, it was still fine when it was removed to be replaced with a biger one, was I just lucky, was it good servicing, was it the stars ?, just saying.

New plugs, Gap about 0.9 New oil filter and engine oil New gearbox oil New diff oil New air filter New Bosch 040 intank fuel pump (mines running 355atw with one) New fuel filter Remove I/C and clean the insides (it gets coated with oil) Flush and clean radiator Clean/Flush/bleed brake fluid Machine/replace discs and fit new pads Clean /flush power steering fluid All this is what I would do first to ensure engine life and peice of mind. THEN... take it to a tuner and get him to run it up, he will/should tell you what is wrong if anything and whats needed to achieve the power and/or responce your after, talk to him about your budget, if he wont listen he is rubbish and justs wants your money, find a better tuner. All this should cost around $1000, your car will go better, it will be safer, and it will be a clean platform to start from, it all depends on how far/stupid you want to go, this way you will not spend money on parts now that need to be upgraded later, things like injectors, exhausts and ECUs. Work out how much power you want and only buy parts to get that end result, there are lots of shiny things that will just waste your money and not give you any gain. Shop smart, Shop S-Mart

But its street regoed, apparently, in the state anyway. It's cool, saying its not is like saying you only need a Hyundai exel because it can do the speed limit, it would be fun at Texi .

R35s, their not as fast as a VL so why would they be faster than that Supre.