The Bogan

On order of the Minister for War and Finances the Honda has had added quietness.....added, a little oval resonator, I was quite enjoying the screaming 4 pot V-Tec Yo noises, it has lost alot of that now, nearly at stock levels again, well, under 3.5k RPM anyway, over that it still sounds good for a little 4 pot, in my mind anyway

In that case it's rebuild time, or LS............nah, cheaper to rebuild everything you've got, as long as the block and head checks out fine

If course he would modify it It would be so easy to get some good power out of it with "dis and dat" I have the same disease, I cannot leave things alone, even things that you don't really need to do, or even should do, because, "why not", like basically everyone else on this forum to varying degrees Or, he would spend the next 10 years fixing all the typical Euro issues as Uncle Duncan has stated

Is that not just alot, and I mean, ALOT, of carbon build up from possibly a over rich tune/fueling issue, or, lots of blow by How many Km is on the engine Have you tried cleaning it off I would definitely give it all a good clean first You could do the same with the piston tops, just be aware to avoid contamination Do each piston at around TDC, block off all water and oil ports, as well as the pistons that are down, then clean out any left over crub between the piston and bore with compressed air I've watched simular cleaning techniques on other YouTube vids using chemicals with plastic scrappers, plastic scouring pads, and brass wire brushes with excellent results Have a Google In the end cleaning should be your first point of call to see how bad, if at all, it really is Hopefully it is all just carbon and some manual labour will clean it all up

Finished rebuilding the calipers and replacing the hub bearings today on the Bogan Cruise Ship As previously stated, the front passenger side caliper jammed up on my last cruise, which did cause some concern going down Bulli Pass Mark talking to Jackie: Me. "Honey, the brakes are fading" Her. "Are we going to crash" Me. "Possibly not" Her -staring intently at me and the road. ".................." Me. .......Dropping into 2nd gear, hand hovering over the hand brake, and looking for safe places to crash........ if required.......... In the end it was not required to park the car backwards into a tree, which was nice The old hub bearings were fairly lose, not really grindy or wobbly, just old, but the difference between the old and new one was chalk and cheese, so it was good preventive maintenance while I was in there Now it's just a waiting game until my new DBA rotors and pads turn up Same waiting game for the DBA rotors for the Honda (I already have the DBA pads patiently waiting on a shelf in the garage) Overall it was a simple, yet fiddly job to rebuild the calipers, but it was a fun little job none the less Popping out the caliper pistons was done in stages with the help of a air compressor (and YouTube), the stuck piston took a few goes at popping it out a bit, pushing it back in, then popping it out again until it freed up and "popped", that O-ring was pretty messed up and hard compared to all others, all the pistons were fine with only a little work with a fine scotch Brite pad and brake cleaner to remove some gunk I did take the car for a short spin and the brakes are working great again, I'm still replacing all the old rotors and pads though as the left front rotor and pads took a beating from the stuck piston, and all the rotors are due anyway as they all have a lip and have seen a few sets of brake pads The Commodore has now been put to bed again until the new pads and rotors arrive In Honda grandpa spec related news, the V-Tec Yo got a new Pioneer android head unit in it today, nothing fancy, but it now has a reverse camera which is handy, plus not needing to carry a heap of CD's is nice I've been on leave since 08 Dec, I go back to work on Monday, I am not looking forward to that, although, there is a light at the end of the tunnel, and it isn't a incoming train.....

So, were any of the K24's valves out of adjustment, yes, basically all of them were either a little loose or tight and needed attention Is valve adjustment a typical thing for RB25 neo and 26 owners so???, if so how often???? Whilst picking up the car I asked if there were any other typical things that might need attention 1. he suggested the cam chain tensioner could get replaced at my milage, so, as I do, a new one is getting ordered (about $150 for a OE one from Honda) 2. the clutch is fairly worn, so, as I do, a new OE Honda clutch kit is also a happening thing (I asked about lightened flywheels "while where in there", he stated to not go that direction for a street car as it would have more drivability issues on the street than performance gains) Apart from the above the Honda got a clean bill of health And...............when I asked about a LSD he hit me up with a few options, I stated I want a mechanical one (TORSEN), there are OE Honda ones that fit, but, there are also some aftermarket options, and also multiple final drive ratios that I could look at......"while we're in there", at this stage I'm looking at options and prices......to be continued

As I don't trust myself with feeler gauges, and getting things to hot/cold spec stuff, the Honda is booked in next Monday to get the valve lash done Plus, for $250 to get BYP to do it properly is worth the cash

Trying to get new OE PBM calipers for the VX has been problematic, after getting told by a few joints they had stock, apparently they are waiting for stock, which after chatting with their suppliers they may infact not be getting them at all I also found a few joints that advertise new OE calipers, that are not actually PBM, or are PBM, but rebuild, typically around $400 each for the fronts So I dropped my showbags I can get rebuild kits easily and cheap enough, so I now have rebuild kits coming for the front and rear calipers, I'll strip out mine, give them a good clean, and rebuild them myself So in the end, 4 calipers rebuilt for less than the price of 1 purchased PBM rebuilt front caliper Winning cash wise, by alot, but lossing time wise, sadly I will be back at work before all the parts arrive I might end up taking them into work and "find some time" then to rebuild them In other Honda related news: my new brake pads have arrived, but, the new discs are not arriving until, yeap, I'm back at work So all the car maintenance jobs I had planned for next week have all been kicked in the balls And no, the stock calipers are not going to get painted red

Nope, because "not" race car

Damn you google shopping Add in a new master cylinder and some HEL brake lines ......Must log off compta now

Add 1 new master cylinder, because why not

Took the Cruise Ship for a cruise on Sunday, all was well until I headed down Bulli pass, brake fad was was interesting to say the least, I made it down without incident, but, the front right disc was blue/black and the caliper was smoking like a champion After letting the brakes cool down we "gingerly" headed home at a extremely leisurely pace avoiding hills, luckily were at the bottom of the mountain and the brakes regained some bite for the plod home At home I jacked up to find a seized front left caliper, the pistons are FUBAR from rust and the seals are also questionable So, as I do, it is time to use my typical approach to things I've ordered new: Front and rear calipers (OEM) Front and rear discs and pads (DBA street series), which by good chance were currently on special at SCA And also new some new OEM front wheel bearing assemblies...... #while were in there..... (I'm assuming the front wheel bearing didn't like being at 11ty million degrees, and for a couple of hundred to replace it is a no-brainer, good thing the Commodore parts are cheap as chips to replace, and plentiful) The Commodore has now been put to bed until all the bits and pieces arrive

I see your straight 6 RB and raise a 4AGE 20v with ITB reving over 10k rpm

Major issues apparently with the noises the Honda makes now, Jackie has decided that the Honda is to "buzzy" when she is giving it the beans heading to the shops (the Honda is like the town bike for the family, everyone takes it for a ride) so I have a incoming resonator to keep the Minister of War and Finances happy From the Google's the Vibrant 1140 will slip over the stock pipe for a easy fit, will knock out most of the buzz, and there is adequate room for it in the OEM midpipe without any clearance issues with the floor or ground clearance I liked the bit of buzz at higher rpm as I felt it suited the Honda 4 cylinder V-Tec YO sound, but, you got to keep the better half "reasonably" happy I suppose It gets its tune early Feb when Chongie heads down from QLD

Gave the Bogan Cruise Ship some love IRT paint As there is no one really at work I had easy access to the wash bay, and undercover parking 1. Truck wash and hot water pressure washer to clean off most the old wax and sealer 2. Then some Chemical Guys clean slate to clean off what the truck wash and hot water pressure washer missed 3. Then 2 coats of Autoglym ceramic coating I'll give it a day for the ceramic to cure, then hard wax it Whilst the ceramic leaves it nice and shiny, I find a good wax will give it a deeper look to the paint, I also find the wax also protects the ceramic coating as a sacrificial layer I'm basically preparing it for all the ash from the bushfires that will probably happen over the next month or so, and the hot water pressure washer at work makes short work of removing old wax when required (every couple of months) As for the Honda, I finished painting the stock rims, they had some hectic scratches on them, but, am I happy with how they turned out, not really, but, they are much better than they were Also, the new header and front pipe on the Honda is all V-Tec YO buzz box noises now when it gets given the beans, it is though surprisingly quiet still when cruising around, whilst the Honda ain't fast, it is fun as a fuel efficient daily hack

I'm glad you, Lex and the car "eventually" made it home safe and sound I've used the NRMA alot over the years, I always get the premium package, the small amount of money it costs to join has paid for itself over and over again, they have never actually made any money from me over the years with all of the tows I've had It does look like a good time to inspect and remediate any of the questionable wiring from yore I'm sorry I missed your initial PM and was unable to give support

Took the Bogan Cruise Ship to Goulburn to visit the daughter for 2nd breakfast and lunch, car was a pleasure cruising on the Hwy The kid has grown up and is adulting like a boss I miss my "little bunny rabbit" who only had time for her dad, now it's all "I have to go to work now dad" (NSW police).... proud dad is proud I believe my parenting superpower was letting her watch me do dumb shit, and her learning from that of what not to do In saying that, her Xmas present, that she asked for, was a cat back for her new Kia Cerato GT hatch, that did put a smile on her face when she took it for a drive after we fitted it

Big difference between the stock pressed and welded steel header pipe and the cast aftermarket one in relation to smooth flow Plus the OEM header isn't matched to the head or gasket, whereas the aftermarket one matches the gasket and head

When you take into consideration the 2 couplers, and the centre bearing, which I priced up the OEM spec Hardey Spicer units at Repco for around $500(ish) for the 3 items, and whatever the uni cost, I didn't think the price was overboard for them to supply, strip, rebuild with new parts, balance and paint

I booked it so it was less than a 1 day affair to drop it off, for them to pull it apart, rebuild and balance it, it was only a hour or so later when they rang to say it was ready for pickup I think it was around $800????, that also included the new, Hardy Spicer uni's, couplers and centre bearing Did you get the exact same as the Xtreme GTR, as in material, wall thickness and diameter What was done, if anything, to the Xtreme GTR IRT the uni angles?

Have a Google IRT max tail shaft speed What is your tail shaft speed? Calculations are based off tail shaft speed (RPM), length, material type, material thickness and diameter Balancing should be done at a higher rpm than your average steet car if your turning high rpm Phasing needs to be correct And uni angle should be in spec, no uni angle is bad, to much angle is bad, uni joints apparently like a little angle to help their internal bearings spin, some say rule of thumb is between 0.5° and 1.5° for high rpm This is why jacked up really high 4x4's do uni's I had issues with my 2 piece when I lowered my K-frame by only 10mm, it basically kept chewing out the couplers because the alignment was out of spec Like you it developed high speed vibration, started about 90 mph, and was like a earth quake at 124 mph I got my alignment right, rebuilt/rebalanced the tail shaft, and now it's good to go 2 piece tail shafts have alot of advantages over a 1 piece when you look deep, especially on a street car

I'm happy how Bogan Cruise Ship is, so just maintenance and the assumed broken bits now and then As for the Honda, if, when, the clutch goes it might get a LSD (while we're in there), apart from that it will remain "stock" I keep trying to spot them when driving around, I think "there's one", but nope, they keep turning out to be Toyota Camry's 🫣

Consumers will consume, I pulled the pin on something for the Honda I said I didn't need, but meh, a PLM header, comes with a decat The decat pipe will get the cat chopped into it This basically optimises the exhaust now for NA duties Express shipping so should be here in under a week But probably not as it is coming via Australia Post from QLD, so could take a month But apart from this, the Honda is staying stock....

Finally got around to putting some car builders under bonnet stuff on, basically to camoflauge the chop chop a bit I do need to replace the windscreen squirter hoses though as they have hardened up Before After Fully stock now.....

Now with added 32kg goodness