The Bogan

I had a smoke/pressure test done at Unigroup engineering years ago https://gfb.com.au/tech/tech-articles/15-smoke-testing-boost-leaks/ That was at least 15 years ago though, my memory ain't what it use to be I just remember them saying that the Blitz valves were junk and had a bad habit of leaking

Daughters new Cerato GT turned up, real nice little rig, she is having a blast "running it in" Soon I will have the big block Yaris in the shed to tinker with and daily She has kept the Yaris well maintained over her ownership, although first up, will be a full service, then a good going all over and under with the pressure washer, then detail, wash, polish and wax to get all the squished Goulburn bugs off it, and all shiny shiny One of my favourite things about new old cars is the initial servicing and cleaning.....weird

Hardy Spicer said if I wanted a strong custom tail shaft that handled all of the rpm it would cost around $2-3k, but that also included different yokes and replacing the rubber coupling for uni-joints

I kept spitting PS belts with a Ross balancer on my 25/30, Unigroup did some measurements and found the alignment was off, but after using some small washers on the PS bracket it was OK Yes it was a 25/30, but that was explained when the trigger kit was purchased, albeit over 10 years ago

I have nothing to say bad about them at their Moorebank location I really don't pay attention to internet feedback on any workshop, to open to negative feedback from randoms or competition, typically I rely on word of mouth When I initially went in for a chat they talked to me for a while about what I needed IRT my power and stuff Hence why I still have the OEM 2 piece tailshaft I was originally looking for a custom 1 piece or 2 piece, they said that are happy to build me whatever spec I request, but, the OEM shaft for my car and the power and revs it would see would be fine, they also talked a bit on the need to get the gearbox, front shaft and centre bearing right for reliability I'm not sure how the angle of the dangle translates to your chassis, but getting it right is really important on the VX The old shaft was dropped of on one day, and ready to pick up the next day fully reco'd and balanced up, as for cost, it actually came in under the initial quote price by a little bit, which from my time dealing with workshops is unheard of Plus, I was happy to spend whatever was required if needed, their honesty saved me quite a lot of dollars, one of the places I looked at was GJDrivelines, whilst that was rated higher (which wasn't needed for my application), it was over $1k more IIRC Which location did you use?

Who's doing your tailshaft, what specs and shizz?

I went through this with Hardy Spicer a while ago with my tail shaft rebuild (2 piece) The sciencey stuff IRT harmonics, tailshaft RPM and the "angles of the dangles" between the transmission and diff was quite interesting Whilst not a shiny thing that most people think about, the tail shaft sciencey stuff is essential for reliability (loosing at tail shaft at high speed can be interesting apparently)

Distributors have a resistor thingie that can cause a similar fault I had a old Ford Bronco with a 351, once hot if you shut it down it wouldn't restart The heat would separate the connection, it contracted when cold and would work again

Does it have engine fault codes? I had similar with a bad CAS or CPS Started fine when cold, but wouldn't restart at temp

Just buy the best your budget allows In saying that $1.5k will get you average suspension, bit spending $2.5k can be much much better dependant on valving and spring rates Remember, good suspension isn't just race car stuff, you brakes rely on good suspension to work properly, compliance on crappy bumpy roads requires good dampening and correct spring rates to work correctly For a street car choosing the right dampening and matching spring rates is essential for a ride that doesn't have you bouncing down the road or shooting shock loads from bumpy roads up your spine I had MCA Comforts in my Limited edition 86, they were much better than the "performance Sachs" coilovers that the car came with from new I had BC in my MX5 and they were OK on the track, but they were oversprung and rubbish on the street I also had new standard shocks and Kings in my VX SS, they were comfy, but the car "wallowed" around, I have now swapped them out for some Pedders Extreme and they are just as compliant (rubber top bushings not pillow ball), but the big fat old car now handles so much better https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/pillow-ball-or-rubber-top-mounts.376578/

Maybe not on a dyno See how it goes on sustained high rpm runs

Stock engine, read the linky, all 84 odd pages No point in having all of the powers if you don't have any oil in the sump At the power levels your looking at she will be a heavy breather

Not the same engine, but good talk about billet, and the issues and requirements for building big HP alloy blocks that can survive on the street, well, survive for a while anyway without needing pre warming the block

A manual impact driver is a handy tool to have on hand

3.5 bar, that water filter should make 1500hp easy Nice kitchen mod

Noice

My 86 had a "sound tube", it was removed when the turbo intake went on Real car noises FTW

I cannot see myself in a EV Call me old fashion but I need something that makes car noises Car noises make me smile

Nope, I've decided the SS will remain registered in the stable until my licence is kaput I'm getting old and broken, not dead

The V8 is fun, although it did use almost 3/4 of tank of fuel on the drive to Goulburn and back So not really good for a daily for driving to and from work or shop runs He'll, that fuel economy is rubbish for pretty much anyone driving to and from work, luckily the VX really only comes out for weekend cruises and the occasional squirt for LOLS My Harley is my daily hack, but I'm in a bit of a conundrum at the moment, the arthritis in my neck is pretty bad, and it ain't going to improve, to the point of probably really being a safety issue riding the bike as I cannot really turn my head much to check traffic properly, and on a bike that is pretty important if you don't want to end up as a smear on Sydney roads, I reckon I've got a year at max before my neck says "no turn for you" I'm thinking of selling the Harley and buying a car more suitable as a weekday runabout I'm getting the little auto Yaris hatch (1.5 big block) back from my daughter soon when her new car finally arrives, which is currently on a very slow boat from South Korea, but, should arrive this month, I'm going to see if I can deal with a Yaris for a while as a daily, then maybe flip the Yaris and bike and grab some new and fancy smaller car for a daily Whatever it is, it does need to be "somewhat" sporty I think a little i30N would tick all the boxes, it goes really well, has all the safety mod cons and stuff, it also makes all the cool noises pretty much as is I also retire at 60 in 1 year, 9 months, 2 weeks and 1 day (not that I'm counting), so I'm looking for something that will take me, and everyone around me, safely into my retirement years as I only really have another 10 or so years before I call it quits and bin my licence for the safety of all concerned I don't want to be one of those old dudes that refuse to accept reality and keep on driving past their use by date I'll then be one of those grumpy old bastards in the passenger seat or on public transport, and as I'm apparently already grumpy, and occasionally a bastard (talk to any of my family or work colleagues), I reckon I got this covered On a side note, I just paid for my rego, it cost $0.00, there are at least some benefits of getting older and broken

Drove to Goulburn to visit my daughter.......and her boys nice new performance blue i30 N manual hatch, he had only put 100km on it so far and was itching to drive it some more, so we took that into Canberra for lunch The i30N hatch is a fun little car, really comfortable, good build quality and sounds great If your looking for something new and fun I think it a great value little hot hatch to definitely look at

Euro 4, IIRC 2 of the 4" body ones for my 3" Y pipe Only a couple of hundred each, the Euro 5 high flow were more expensive but had a 5" body, I needed 2 so cheaped out on the Euro 4 The car (2002) only needs to meet Euro 3 but it ain't stock, so 1 extra Euro was acquired, which going of todays conversion rate is $1.67AUD, so I'm making money not fumes!!!!!!!

On the bots topic: I too was an idiot and decatted some, yeah, all, of my old street cars thinking that that would give me more powers It did make the exhaust a little louder, and I may have gained a killerwasp or 2, but the fuel smell was fairly horrible He'll, the bogan cruise ship had 100 cell cats when I first got it, they did nothing for removing the stink Replacing the 100 cell cats with some actual Euro spec ones fixed the stench For a potential killerwasp or 2 running a decat on a street car is silly And this guy doesn't want to kick you in the balls >

Logs were reviewed and Jacek said that that is as good as it will get on the street tyres The only change he recommended was playing with the max slip fuel cut for when the drag radials are on, start at 70% and see how that effects the 60", then test and adjust up from there It is currently at 85% on setting 6, which works great for the street tyres and a awesome 0-100 in the old bus 15 logs sent and 8 configurator changes sent So now the street tyre settings are sorted, from cold wet icey roads, to kill mode in the dry, time to hit the drag radials The plan is to move setting 2 into setting 1, and follow them all down until setting 6 is moved to setting 5, setting 6 will then be basically the same as setting 5, but with less max slip fuel cut % for the drag radials at the strip As for spinning wheels on drag radials, last time out they spun fairly hard and I needed to pedal a bit, but, my tyre pressures were too high, I'll drop the tyre pressure down to about 15 psi and see if they hook without the traction control on, look at a log and see how much it is spinning, I'll then try with traction control on, and compare some logs Hopefully a Wednesday night soon I'll hit WSID and see how it goes

Latest configurator setting 6 got me a 3.96 0-100 kph Slip settings were the same as the last, 65%, the only change were to the kD (D value for pid control), the new were 5.00, the old were 3.00, yeah, I have no idea of what that actually means, LOL, but, it has something to do with my car having quote: "alot of drive train inertia and when it starts to slip it takes awhile before it stops, more sensitive kD should act as a prediction of what is going to happen"......(black magic stuff) He believes the most we can shave may be 0.1-0.2 seconds off the flat 4.0 I've sent the logs off again for Jacek to look at I was actually happy with the flat 4.00, but a 3.96 is even better Sort of like the difference between a 11.000, and a 10.999 at the drags, it is then either a 11 second car or a 10 second car, it's now a 3 second 0-100 car... . sort of....yeap .......I'm an idiot rounding down Winner winner chicken dinner