The Bogan

Needs a ???green slip??? NOT a 3rd party slip, one for an unregistered car, or a engine swap I did this years ago for an interstate car, and on engine swaps Not 100% on it now though I do know that if your licence says you live in NSW you only have a short time to get your rego changed to NSW, fines apply if you don't, and the interstate "3rd party" insurance in null and void as well I believe RMS inspection will require alot of mods to be returned to STD or equivalent as well I believe You "may" be able to get an engineer to sign off on some of it, there's alot of stuff that needs to comply to do it legally, an engineer can help with it all Check the RMS website for allowable modifications

Gave it a wash and wax to clear a week or so of dust off it All ready to drive down to Goulburn tonight to get covered in insects I hate driving down to Goulburn at night, Kangaroos and Wombats, fair warning, get to your beds and off the roads

Super happy with the result Ample clearance to use OEM height engine mounts I just need to put the Carbuilders premium under bonnet liner on to finish the "it's stock" look....... under bonnet 🤣, and fit the new engine mounts, then off to WSID for some more fun

I guess I'm on the spectrum then 🤪, I'm lots of colours

My 2 cents is to get the longest resonators that fit your system

Impulse buys away So much for stock engine mounts, these have a larger softer bush than the Tuff Mounts, so less NVH that now, and are OEM height,.......... and are "apparently" unbreakable Was recommended them by a guy at work who has been running them for years

As Dose said, 30°c IAT is fine How locked in are you to your current tuner? What spring is in the gate?

IRT interchillers, don't believe everything you hear with the marketing Don't get me wrong though, my interchiller is working great at keeping my IAT sorted, but, there are additional things that are required for a top mount blower, it needs thermal resistant spacers, mine are 10mm made from some apparently fancy plastic stuff, and some thermal mat on the valley plate to separate the blower from the engine, the heat soak from the block and heads does raise IAT readings, and thermal spacers and mat is recommended by FI interchillers But with a turbo setup using a interchiller you won't have the heat soak from the engine effecting the intercooler that sits in the blower hat I could upgrade the system by putting in a larger and more efficient condenser to get the most out of the refrigerant, and a larger reservoir for more volume to have more chilled coolant on hand, but for my usage it isn't required as I haven't seen IAT over 36°c during back to back drag runs and some time on the dyno I am only pushing 7psi with the biggest pulley that fits though, I cannot really go a smaller pulley for more boost as I'm still on the stock bottom end and I am at the limit to keep my built 4l60e safe, which is 600hp at the engine If you shut the car down, then start it up again in around a half an hour the IAT starts at around 40-45°c, and takes at least 5 minutes to drop back down to around 25°c Disclaimer: on a turbo car, when you are at WOT for extended periods, like track sessions, the AC shuts down at high throttle percentages, I probably wouldn't use a interchiller on a WTA cooler, a normal air to water may well be more efficient, or, a normal air to air would most likely be a better choice, maybe???? Also, if you lose AC, the thing heat soaks, alot, they remove the WTA condenser when they fit the interchiller But, maybe/probably, high IAT temps aren't you problem like they were mine when I only had a WTA cooler Good luck finding your issues and "may the boost be with you"

Just dropped the car off at Fineline to cut in the VN Group A bonnet bulge, they are going to see how it looks bolted and glued on first, then "maybe" mould it in, then back to standard height OEM engine mounts, the front Holden badge on the bonnet is also being removed and the locating holes welded up Should be back to me in around a week Which ever way Fineline do it it will be quality work, I've had alot of work done by them over the years on my cars and bikes, it has always been excellent work and paint match has always been spot on Hopefully I don't hate it like the VK reverse cowl that was on before, the VK reverse cowl was too in your face, it lost the windscreen squirters, and was to boxy, the VN buldge is much more low profile and rounded which "should" suit the VX's rounded lines better, but, "failure is always an option when it comes to my good ideas" Like this, only a bit more towards the front to keep the windscreen squirters and get clearance around the front of the blower and throttle body>

Apples and oranges: my supercharged LS1 would start pulling timing once IAT got over 65°c, some safety feature in the tune so I didn't melt pistons or something At the drags the car would launch hard, but by half track the IAT was around 70°c and for the rest of the run the thing just dropped power My fix was an interchiller, now my IAT haven't gotten over 36°c at the drags or during tuning on the dyno, the car runs like a boss now Maybe look at the size of your intercooler, your CAI location, or, are you just maxing out the turbo and it is turning into a flame throwing heat gun, or does it need more fuel for cooling Well, that's where my uneducated brain and extremely limited knowledge about tuning would look IRT high IAT

Is the ignition pulling timing because of high IAT?

They are illegal now Most of the smokers I know now use the gapes Funny thing is their fitness has improved greatly Meh On topic: thread needs more speed hole data

Speed holes = +$20k

I bet those Invidia are 100 cell which are "catalytic converter psychological" https://racecraftaus.com/products/catalytic-converter-universal-400cpsi-euro5?variant=39439772680305

This is where my area of "want" really is

I've started collecting old steel Mack truck rims for outside heating, so far I "rescued" 2 from scrap bins at work, I need 3 though, although you could use a car rim on the bottom, but 3 truck rims make it look much more "meaty" We have a few pot belly's at work made out of them, one is as good as the day it was built over 30 years ago, even after many occasions of packing it full of hardwood and having it glowing cherry red with a 3 foot flame shooting out the chimney, it is a great warm thing to look at from 12 foot away drinking brewskies with the guys We found they do need a good stand off (read: metal frame work fence to negate life threatening injuries from falling onto it in a drunken state) and a good sized foundation under them when glowing cherry red, grass doesn't stand a chance, or any type painted surface, roof, building, lawn furniture, or even people adding in more timber, they will melt or catch on fire if to close for to long when it is turned up to 11ty We ended up making a mesh spark arrestor for the chimney as well as the "powers that be" claimed it was a fire hazard as it shot embers high into to sky Not this but like this (from googles) > but with another Mack rim on the bottom with a gate so you can clean out the ashes, nails, bolts, food scraps and molten beer cans that had the misfortune of being dropped into its gasping maw, ours have a swinging top plate to allow anything smaller than about 200mm round and 500mm long to be fed into it Disclaimer: out door use only 2 of them bolted together with some mesh also make great out door open fire pits My latest acquisition, brand new rim :~) >

The day was great, after warming up with coffee and a catch up with her and her boyfriend for a few hours, we hit the local gym for an hour, then went to the Para for lunch, but, early morning, doing $1.10 on the hwy, that was not so nice, having your hands go numb is problematic on a bike if any braking is involved I have been looking at possibly buying something down that way, I believe I'm going to need to "hardened the fark up" in the future if I still want to ride the bike when it is stupid cold like it gets down there The warmer climate of the South Coast is fighting hard for my money though

Rode the Bogan bike to Goulburn to visit the daughter this morning. I nearly froze to death, even with lots of layers Note to self: drive the car to Goulburn when it's cold you idiot

An issue I had was the Tomei pump I was using, it was sending so much oil to the head at high RPM that the head, even with smaller restictors, and enlarged oil drains in the head and block, and a head return line/vent installed to the sump couldn't keep up with the oil being sent to the head, the fix was changing the spring on the bypass of the oil pump or.........something.....UNIGROUP ended up sorting out the issue, plus a big AOS/baffled catch can with a one way valve that returned to the sump helped High RPM and a high volume oil pressure is problematic in a RB This was over 10 years ago though, I'm sure this has been well sorted by now with all the high reving RB monsters still using a stock location high volume oil pump Or, go dry sump and fix that dilemma, but then your oil pressure relys on a belt Or, spin a LS with a high volume, high pressure oil pump, on a stock but boosted long block, and not have a issue 🤪

My daughter just purchased a new Kia Cerento GT, "apparently" going of reviews it has basically the same driveline as the i30 N line premium, apart from the transmission options Both had typically warranty IIRC She went looking at both, she said they were both similar inside, but she liked the inside of the Kia better and the Kia had a little more room inside She ended up going the Kia Cerento GT because it ended up a few grand cheaper than the i30 N line premium She has to wait for it though as she wanted some premium pearly white paint In saying that, even with the extra costs for the paint and other accessories she ticked the box for, it was still a few grand cheaper How it holds up long term wise compared to the Hyundai is something that will have to wait and see They way I see it they are both great cars for girls.....😋😘

It looks real nice in the picture, and still has the stock rims which is a bonus, looks like it has been loved

How is the potential rust?

Took off the car builders underbonnet mat, was surprisingly easy, although I did sit the car in the sun to get some warmth on the bonnet. Basically pealed it off slowly, the glue was still really sticky and took some effort, but, going slowly it only left a little glue behind, then a little wax and grease remover and "Voila", all ready for the paint shop to do their "chop chop paint" I'll hit it with some more wax and grease remover the day before I "send it" as I like to clean off all wax and stuff prior to sending anything to a paint shop Before After It will get some more of the car builders stuff one the "chop chop paint" is done to "protect the guilty" The new drive shafts arrived today, as well as some wrinkle paint that I got from Supercheap, they are next on the agenda Apparently wrinkle paint is in high demand, finding some was time consuming, and there was no red anywhere in NSW, so I made an executive decision, after some staring at the rocker covers hidden under the coil packs, to not be so "lairy" and just go black to match the blower and the rest of the black stuff under the bonnet

Throw some picks and wheel specs up mate

Put high flow cats back in if it is a street car, you won't loss many HP with "good" and "big" 400 cell high flow cats, unless all you care about is circle jerk dyno sheets, and need that extra 5-10hp for the insta reps. Plus Captain Planet will not come looking for you to kick you in the balls.