The Bogan

If your car doesn't come out to much in the wet Toyo R888R's last well, I got about 10k km out of them before putting RS4's back on, the R888R still had a few mm left from the tread wear markers when they came off, so probably another few k km's The R888R's were the best "fair weather" street tyre I have ever used, BUT, they didn't like pools of standing water I do alot of Hwy driving, rain, or shine, and whilst the R888R's were exceptional in the dry on the street they really didn't inspire confidence when hitting pools of water on the Hwy doing 110 kph If my car was just a sunny Sunday cruiser I would definitely still be running the R888R's, the difference between dry grip between the R888R's and RS4's is large, as you would expect From my experience with the RS4's you are likely to easily get 10-15 even 20k km out of them on the street if you aren't doing lots of skids or track work

Some older models only have 1 before for fueling, later they also had 1 after to measure emissions and the efficiency of the cat My old (2002) only has 1 before the cat

Swaps for a big block Yaris, I know what I got....

Well it wasn't from Nissan/Nismo, lots of tuner shops and dealers put their own spin on things, like the Yenko Camaro in the states to name just one over there in 'Merica, also some shops here in AU did dealer specials years ago, much like the Walkinshaw packages you get nowadays

Maybe, probably

SAU search Not Nissan, it was a dealer spec car

http://kurosorablog.com/2020/12/280typemr-the-rarest-of-the-rare-gts-t First thing that popped up on Googles

I had a smoke/pressure test done at Unigroup engineering years ago https://gfb.com.au/tech/tech-articles/15-smoke-testing-boost-leaks/ That was at least 15 years ago though, my memory ain't what it use to be I just remember them saying that the Blitz valves were junk and had a bad habit of leaking

Daughters new Cerato GT turned up, real nice little rig, she is having a blast "running it in" Soon I will have the big block Yaris in the shed to tinker with and daily She has kept the Yaris well maintained over her ownership, although first up, will be a full service, then a good going all over and under with the pressure washer, then detail, wash, polish and wax to get all the squished Goulburn bugs off it, and all shiny shiny One of my favourite things about new old cars is the initial servicing and cleaning.....weird

Hardy Spicer said if I wanted a strong custom tail shaft that handled all of the rpm it would cost around $2-3k, but that also included different yokes and replacing the rubber coupling for uni-joints

I kept spitting PS belts with a Ross balancer on my 25/30, Unigroup did some measurements and found the alignment was off, but after using some small washers on the PS bracket it was OK Yes it was a 25/30, but that was explained when the trigger kit was purchased, albeit over 10 years ago

I have nothing to say bad about them at their Moorebank location I really don't pay attention to internet feedback on any workshop, to open to negative feedback from randoms or competition, typically I rely on word of mouth When I initially went in for a chat they talked to me for a while about what I needed IRT my power and stuff Hence why I still have the OEM 2 piece tailshaft I was originally looking for a custom 1 piece or 2 piece, they said that are happy to build me whatever spec I request, but, the OEM shaft for my car and the power and revs it would see would be fine, they also talked a bit on the need to get the gearbox, front shaft and centre bearing right for reliability I'm not sure how the angle of the dangle translates to your chassis, but getting it right is really important on the VX The old shaft was dropped of on one day, and ready to pick up the next day fully reco'd and balanced up, as for cost, it actually came in under the initial quote price by a little bit, which from my time dealing with workshops is unheard of Plus, I was happy to spend whatever was required if needed, their honesty saved me quite a lot of dollars, one of the places I looked at was GJDrivelines, whilst that was rated higher (which wasn't needed for my application), it was over $1k more IIRC Which location did you use?

Who's doing your tailshaft, what specs and shizz?

I went through this with Hardy Spicer a while ago with my tail shaft rebuild (2 piece) The sciencey stuff IRT harmonics, tailshaft RPM and the "angles of the dangles" between the transmission and diff was quite interesting Whilst not a shiny thing that most people think about, the tail shaft sciencey stuff is essential for reliability (loosing at tail shaft at high speed can be interesting apparently)

Distributors have a resistor thingie that can cause a similar fault I had a old Ford Bronco with a 351, once hot if you shut it down it wouldn't restart The heat would separate the connection, it contracted when cold and would work again

Does it have engine fault codes? I had similar with a bad CAS or CPS Started fine when cold, but wouldn't restart at temp

Just buy the best your budget allows In saying that $1.5k will get you average suspension, bit spending $2.5k can be much much better dependant on valving and spring rates Remember, good suspension isn't just race car stuff, you brakes rely on good suspension to work properly, compliance on crappy bumpy roads requires good dampening and correct spring rates to work correctly For a street car choosing the right dampening and matching spring rates is essential for a ride that doesn't have you bouncing down the road or shooting shock loads from bumpy roads up your spine I had MCA Comforts in my Limited edition 86, they were much better than the "performance Sachs" coilovers that the car came with from new I had BC in my MX5 and they were OK on the track, but they were oversprung and rubbish on the street I also had new standard shocks and Kings in my VX SS, they were comfy, but the car "wallowed" around, I have now swapped them out for some Pedders Extreme and they are just as compliant (rubber top bushings not pillow ball), but the big fat old car now handles so much better https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/pillow-ball-or-rubber-top-mounts.376578/

Maybe not on a dyno See how it goes on sustained high rpm runs

Stock engine, read the linky, all 84 odd pages No point in having all of the powers if you don't have any oil in the sump At the power levels your looking at she will be a heavy breather

Not the same engine, but good talk about billet, and the issues and requirements for building big HP alloy blocks that can survive on the street, well, survive for a while anyway without needing pre warming the block

A manual impact driver is a handy tool to have on hand

3.5 bar, that water filter should make 1500hp easy Nice kitchen mod

Noice

My 86 had a "sound tube", it was removed when the turbo intake went on Real car noises FTW

I cannot see myself in a EV Call me old fashion but I need something that makes car noises Car noises make me smile