The Bogan

I'm just waiting for a Spiro to give me call, I'll drop some coin so he can gather the required parts, then when everything arrives I'll drop the car off for some...... And by "when everything arrives" doesn't count for other random bits that may be required mid install.......as usual 🙄 Bloody cars

I had to cancel my booking at Autotech to get the thermal spacers installed because of work, meh, work pays the bills, but whilst I've been away I've had a little down time here and there, so, .........Idle hands are the devils play thing. I've bit the proverbial bullet and will get the interchiller done at the same time. There isn't alot of options brand wise, but Autotech has installed a few FI-interchillers with some really good results. I'm not looking for more power, it's just to keep the IAT under control, and by under control I mean possibly below ambient IAT, dependant on how deep I want to go with additional condensers, other "stuff" and coin https://fiinterchillers.com/

I think it's more pop pop crackle crackle pop knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock knock Maybe 😜

Yeah, they might sound a bit like muddies on a 4wd, but they should hook up alot better. The ain't fitted yet, Jackie picked them up and they are sitting in the garage. I'm currently in Lismore pointing at things that are muddy and/or broken for the "team" to pick up, or, working out how to get cows out of the top of trees. It ain't pretty here. Tempe tyres told Jackie they are only for race cars, after she picked them up she called and asked WTF, LOL, she was having a moment, I'll buy her something shiny and all will be well again on my return. Comprise is another one of my middle names.

New boots for the Bogan machine Rear are 275/40 17 Toyo Proxes R888R, 100 AA A UTQG, some OK reviews from people using them as daily and drag tyres, supposed to be much better the MT S/S Drag radials in the wet, nearly as good as them in the dry, and better that my current RS4 in the dry, supposedly , time will tell, if they are good but wear out real fast, I might get a second set of 9.5 x 17 FR-1 for fair weather driving. $300 a tyre Fronts are 235/45 17 Toyo Proxes C1S (oem size), which will surfice as the car is a big fat boat where hitting corners hard is not a thing, they just need to not aqua plane me off the road when its raining, well that's the plan anyway, $155 a tyre

Crackle and Pop tunes bring all the boys to the yard. If that's your thing, and it's OK if it is, we are a tolerant society Well...... SNAP....

I just contacted the "alarm guy" that SAUNSW put me onto a few years ago. (Is there any information you cannot get from SAU?????.....Nope) They are the ones he recommends and so far every alarm he has ever installed has been issue free He is a little more expensive than the SCA unit, but, installed so I won't set my car on fire Not sure of brand name, and I'm not to fussed if he has cobbled it together himself, the tech isn't rocket science, well, it is to me......but all long at it has all the geeky bits, and works, and doesn't set the car on fire, I'm happy 4G network thingie $35 a year for the sim thing

Got any recommendations on trackers mate? I was looking at something at Supercheap for $300, and then I assume it's a phone plan thingie?? Cheers

Have you checked your dash vs GPS The up to -10% thing is a factor for error that the manufacturer factors in They are not allowed to have a speedo reading of 100 kph, but actual speed of 101 kph So the error is -0% + 10% I believe I believe this takes into consideration variations of tyre sizes with different models, and tyre wear

Excellent result

"If you cannot afford to buy 2 GTR's, you cannot afford to modify 1 GTR" ...I think #Pigazz threw those wise words out 15 odd years ago, when GTR's were worth $15-20k

The old girl is just about to hit 140k km, so near on 25k km since I got it in April 2020 And whilst the initial plan was to only keep it till I found something better, it has grown on me, to the point of I cannot see myself selling it Even Jackie has come around and enjoys going on long country drives, although she does sleep through alot of the driving, it's just like cruising on a comfy lounge chair I am truly owning the bogan V8 cruise ship lifestyle

Nope Need height for gutter jumping

Stuck the suspension in 4wd gasser mode go on Guard to center of hub Front 365 Rear 355 Clears all the speed humps around work, no scrapping on the driveway at the girls Dampening set to 10 clicks from full hard, may soften it up a bit more though Car needs s wash bad

Slightly less bogan without the reverse cowl Paint match of the bonnet and front bar by Fineline is spot on, again Also sold the old bonnet with the cowl pretty much straight away, which was nice, as it triggered me every time I looked at it in the shed In other news: lowering the engine to fit the spacers looks like a combination of lowering the engine mounts by 5mm and the K-frame by 5mm, this will give me all the clearances required and not screw with rhe steering geometry Well, that's the plan

New suspension arrived Just need time to fit, maybe this weekend, maybe next Made in the Republic of China, otherwise known as Taiwan, so you know is good

Do it, what could possibly go wrong Luckly you didn't pay for the car that is going to get hacked up and ruined Well, not actually ruined if your a 15 year old boy going for other 15 year old boys instalikes, oh, and also not worried about resale Meh Just do it

As a wise man once said, "use ya brain" People have given their view as you asked them to, you cannot ask the same question and expect different answers, what you had planned was a poorly though out idea, even before talking about it being a scam But hey, your 15, so you'll be sweet

No

My commodore LS1 has a stage 1 cam, my RB25 had a stage 2 cam, I believe the Ford Coyote engine has a stage 4 cam, or was that the total amount of cams an engine has???? Sorry I blame marketing and the youth of today for their "stage" builds You really need to know the cam specs for your application, a turbo cam should have different specs to a NA or Supercharged cam, as well as what you use the car for, is it a race car that will live at high rpm, or a street car that requires manners down low, big turbo or small turbo, what gears you run can come onto the equation as well Incorrect cam choice based of "stages" sounds like a recipe for disaster There are some knowledgeable people here, "I'm NOT one of them", but in the end I would talk to a "reputable" engine builder with your requirements and make your cam choice based of actual induction type, vehicles usage and all the other technical magic that can actually help, not picking a "stage" cam based of a random person on the interwebs recommendation https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/how-to/how-to-pick-the-right-camshaft/amp/ Have fun, have a plan, have a budget (and then double your budget)

It's like asking the history of your girlfriend or wife, sometimes not knowing is better

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-12v-6-amp-7-stage-battery-charger/544705.html?cgid=SCA01060203#start=7 The catch phrase is: Zero Volt start-up, enabling recovery and charging of a completely discharged battery

My 5 amp Ctek won't bring back a dead flat battery, my 6 amp supercheap one does though I only use the Ctek as a tender for my bike I deal with alot of flat plant and truck batteries at work, whilst cheap, the super cheap auto brand one work well I've had one getting bashed around at work for years reviving plant and truck batteries that weren't isolated and which have sat around for months unused but still connected

Possibly the 1st time you lay into it, possibly the 50th time Anyone can make big power bolting a turbo on a car, making it reliable is the hard, and expensive part If you don't have $20-30k to drop on the engine and drivetrain then just do a nice NA build If you want a fast car, buy one that someone has already spent the money on making it fast and reliable