3LGODZILA

the 3.2 and 3.4l kits by spool are for rb30 blocks not rb26

the joys of driving a turbo in the wet ahahha harden up no need to cry about it

i went for a ride in that r35 gtr he happened to be a mate of a mate so he took me for a drive through the hills to the last stop at city west. very impressive car and was an awesome experience

yes carbon fibre bonnets are illegal unless they're ADR approved (good luck trying to find one) coil-over suspension isnt illegal afaik as long as its made to suit the car, and obviously isnt bunky or track spec (leaking, too low, too stiff) blue headlights and parklights are illegal. i reccomend running 6000k hid's which are a blue/white and bright enough, aftermarket hid's are illegal but nearly every import and alot of other cars in perth run them and f**k all people get hassled for them, if u wanna be a bitch run some phillips crystal vision globes im pretty sure they're ADR approved but they're not as bright and not as blue

ring WA suspensions

keep it all the same go for a 3.5inch, how much power u chasin?

really! i woulda thought coventrys would be fairly cheap, who else sells them besides nissan? id assume nissan would be the most expensive right? yeah ive seen people asking 300 for second hand ones would be great to pick 1 up for that price or even cheaper

he welded it open?? can u get the number of his crack dealer? sounds like a good batch

induction noise > exhaust noise

guilt-toy post up ur opinion mate, would be good to hear some more of the experienced guys opinions on a side note, is it really possible to get an idea of the condition of a engine by going off the oil filler cap? and are all engines the same/similar? (elite mentioned before nissans are sealed engines). or is it better to compression/leak down test. main reason i wanna know is when your going to look at a car to buy alot of the time its hard to a full on compression test over all the cylinders, testing via the filler cap would be a much much quicker way

seriously how can u not like the sound of a turbo spooling!! yes the standard airbox will shut it up and i remember SKYRYAN (from perth) in his forsale section a lil while back said he had a gt-rs and said its f**king loud, theres nothing wrong mechaniclly with it, thats just how those turbos are - fkn loud. throw him a pm might be able to help ya out

ok may sound a bit silly but what is a z32 afm? i know what it does, i know i need one and i know how to install it. but whats it out of? a twin turbo z32 300zx? and where do u get them, can u get aftermaket ones? ive seen nissan ones and bosch ones for sale, reason im asking is where i work we get an awesome price through coventries (over 50% off) and it may be similar pricing to what people sell them for 2nd hand (bout $250) and i dont have to take the risk of it being dodgy. and yeah the guys at covs are a bit slow if i ask for a z32 afm they'll be like duuuuh wats a z32???

i want hyperdrive inside of me!! but seriously havnt heard anything bad about them only good things, ill be taking my car there when its ready

after having a quick look through that first link u posted - the civic, no autosparky shop is gonna be interested in doing that, its more of a DIY job, u mayyyyy find someone whos willing to do a cashy but it looks like theres a shitload of hours involved (as i said i had a quick look through it) so its gonna be very expensive to pay someone else to do it for u. i didnt see the comparison vid of the projector vs non projector hids, yes there probably is a big difference between the 2 but for everyday driving normal hids are fine. ive had mine for about a year i drive my car everyday and nearly every night, i havnt even aimed my headlights since ive had the car just swapped the old halogens out for my 6000k bosch hids and ive had no problems whatsoever, i havnt been highbeamd or flashed once so they mustn't be blinding people, not one cop has pulled me over for them - ive been pulled over a few times at night the cop has checked over the whole car and not even mentioned the hids, and i havnt had any problems with visibility there wayyyy better then the factory light ive only ever needed highbeam on country roads (so i see animals and crap like that in the distance)

f**k i think im onto something here ay, just cant pinpoint it

100% sure your car will have a factory actuator. if the immobilizer/alarm system cannot use it and needs another one then its shit, get another one im using a cyclops one, cost'd around $120 from memory (can look it up and find out for sure if ur interested) and it done everything, central locking, its got an alarm, boonet switch and shock sensor, and i also bought a chip which you change over which allows it to work with a turbo timer, this wasnt very expensive and was very easy to swap over (in and out) i can do a cashy and install one if u want, or our workshop does pretty good price on supply & installs on immobilizers (autowatch) the very very basic ones, and also keypad ones. in ur other thread u said u were on a bit of a budget, id recomend the cyclops, but if u want a mother of a systhem then go for an autowatch one they do an awsome kit with motion sensors and all that crap.

tap into the main harness comming off the key switch then run it outside its not that hard, i wouldnt even think about splicing off the injectors! if ur set on getting an ignition off ur alternator then ill tell u what to do, i dont recommend it but, most will have a main battery (obvious) and a plug with 2 or so wires, 1 will be warning light (dont splice into this) and the other will be an ignition feed. the warning light will have a negative there when the keys on (which light up the warning light on ur dash) then once its charging it turns into a positive which make 2 positives going to the gobe on the dash (which cancels out the light) and this is how to wire it up to a relay - please dont just run them straight off the ignition feed otherwise u'll blow fuses left right n centre. 85 - ignition source (in ur case spliced off the alternator) 86- earth 87- to ur thermo positive wire(s) 30- straight to the battery (use an inline fuse @ the battery) a standard 30amp relay will be fine this way when u turn ur key on to ignition the relay will energize sending power straight from the battery to the fans, turn the key off fans go off, this is how u wanted it wired up right?

run a decat, will be slightly louder and slightly faster, best of both worlds! pros. more power more response louder their cheap, sell ur current high flow cat and ur infront! ur system sounds like a quality system, this way u dont have to modify it and f**k with anything cons. the environment (f**k the environment)

is the gauge reading accurately? it should take a good 5 - 10 mins to warm up then should sit either just under half way or bang on half way (if its pretty hot) if this is the case then its doing its job properly id be looking else where.

and cake!

was it ka band? if it was just k band may have been a copper behind/infront maybe?

id help ya but u live soooo far away haha, i may be working this sat if i am i can prbly come past afta work, im still yet to hear back from sum1 i might already have a job to do on sat afta work for them. sounds like dodgy wiring @ the cigarette lighter, sum1 may have put the park light feed into the power socket meaning the socket will only have power when the lights are on, if its all loose like u said it is, it'l more then likely short out and if the parkers are connected to it then they will go to, you should have headlights tho, if its a mess behind the lighter disconnected all the wires dont worry about where which one goes thats easy to find out, tape them up if you have to then try replace the fuse

bigger fuel pump aftermarket ecu or something like a nistune bigger injectors z32 afm (not to worry if your going for a map sensor from something like a vipec) bigger turbo 3 or 3 1/2 inch exhaust FMIC either a metal intake pipe or do the mod to keep the standard one from closing a boost controller probably need new coil packs id be changing the spark plugs too all new hose clamps - the standard ones will blow off pod filter ive probably forgotten a few things but yeah that just the engine, at that power level ud want to look into suspention & brakes too or atleast brakes, at 450hp a rebuild with forgies would be a good idea or just drive it till it blows then rebuild, standard rb25 will do a reliable 400rwhp

f**k yeah f**k the emissions!

stupid question: can some1 give a good explanation of a dry sump?