tridentt150v

9th is Ok, why not make the thread a poll and put up the three most likely dates, the one that wins is the date???

Had mine done [just sold it recently] was really happy with the power, I had 240rwkw at 18psi before I put cams in. Then I put cams in and [unfortunately] didn't stop there, I pulled my turbo off and sold it [had a very good offer with no hassles] now I'm looking at other turbos etc. But the high flow was a very good turbo and I estimate would have made around 260rwkw all up. The turbo is openned up to breath a better. Mine went from 51.2/71 to 56.3/76mm. But my turbo was not a std one to start with, it was a garrett something or rather [not too sure but it went well]. Steve I'll send you my spec sheet so you can see what I have on my 'line to make the power I did. Also if you go to the RB25 turbo results thread in forced induction you will see what other ppl are getting from theirs. Personally, a high flow for $1000 is a good option. if it goes over this amount then i'd be looking at the garrett GT3071R IW with T3, Slide is selling them for around $1600 and they are a 480hp turbo, so you would be looking at 250-270rwkw with supporting mods. I'm looking at the HKS2835proS, its a small mods only bolt on. But I'm also looking at the GT3076R IW and the GT3040R IW they require a lot more mods [custom intake and dump and well as oil and water lines] to fit. Overall cost of all options is eventually about the same give or take a $100-200.

Nengun has the kit with 68 and 87 i thought, but that is for an R33 so maybe different for and R34. And with both actuator sizes. Personally the 87 is my pick, better huff n puff.

Get a nut that is bigger than the original bolt size, needs a to be a snug fit, drill it out to the correct size if you have to. Tap it on with a hammer, use the arc and weld it together, undo while still hot [but not glowing], the heat helps to loosen the bolt anyway. Otherwise, all the other suggestions here are good as well, dremel can be a lifesaver, ezy outs are good but can snap off and tend to expand the original bolt as they bite in. Bashing a socket on can work, but be careful that you don't break the parent material [the thread hole that the bolt is screwed into] with over exhuberant hammering cos then your really f*#ked.

yeah, I don't think you have anything to worry about myself, I certainly wouldn't be doing anything about it if it was my car. It would have to get a lot worse than that before I'd be thinking engine rebuild time. And you hit the nail when you talked about compression differences re pistons/head gaskets etc What you have is likely a very healthy normal motor.

Who made the hi mount? any chance of a pic?

fmic, hiflowed turbo probably be a good start for 200 yeah 150-160 for now.

I also presume you had the correct valve clearances [you checked and reset them?] before you did the test?? Take your worst cylinder, squirt a bit of heavier [say] gear oil in it with an oil can, and then do your compression test again. If it bumps up to +150psi, then its rings/bore/pistons. If it doesn't change much, then its valves/guides. Do this on a cold motor. Thats if your curious to know!

I presume you did it on a hot motor?

Is your gauge an analogue [dial gauge] or digital [lcd/led]? If its analogue, then you won't get any signal to it until you turn the motor on because it has a vacuum hose connected to the back of it. ie the signal is manual not electrical. You won't get any reading until there is vacuum. I have an apexi boost gauge that is like this. Usually you will see a 'T' piece where the hose is connected somewhere under your bonnet, mine is at the front of the plenum.

Easy done, I do it all the time. PM sent.

25th sound great, too much happening the closer you get to xmas.

The trouble is there are just way too many ways to skin this cat!!! Between intake, compressor, turbine, exhaust, cams etc etc you really have to figure some things out for your particular set up. Granted though, you look at what other people are using and this gives you something to go on.

What are the specs, which one did you get, 68 0r 87? I've PM'd you.

Here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=59279

Thanks, I thought that, but its nice to get confirmation. I sent 'nuffin wurks' a PM on it but recieved no reply, so asked here.

I just read the tutorial on selecting a turbo. You have to know your vehicles efficiency. How do you calculate this???

where are you located?

Al_R33 I thought you had a 3076 as well???

Then go here: http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...3782f0b50143ca2 and here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=138616

Congrats.........................you are [now] already a better looking person as well as healthier. And you won't get around smelling like an ash tray. Keep up the good work, stay strong. Nothing worse than seeing somebody with a ciggie hanging out of their gob. It's an ugly sight. PS I gave up so long ago I'm afraid to say, but when a packet of smokes went $1 I said nu hu too much.

Now, or before?

I've had readings of 95 knock, but no miss. So how does a reading of 75 end up with a miss?/? You have to be rattling your motor to bits to get a miss when pinging. Guessing here, but I'd reckon readings heaps higher than 100. I've had motors where I have had it, and they where knocking very loud, like a rattle. By the way, you won't do any damage as long as you: 1. Don't hold it there, or push on. 2. Get it fixed promptly so that it doesn't happen again. 3. Use a trailing throttle when going up steep hills etc keep the load off the car [although if you retard the ignition by 3 degrees then you'll have to still try it again to see if it's fixed it]. I'd be interested to see if it solves the whole problem. Maybe the 'lean out' has shown up another fault only showing up under stress?

Fuel starving?? Pump maybe?? This would make it lean out and increase the knock.

If you think you need 'em for the 71, your gonna need 'em in spades for the 40. You are right though!!