tridentt150v

an impact wrench or rattle gun can also help to crack it, I don't use 'em to do them up, but they do OK to get them loose.

hitting R+R??

Hoestly though you lost me, try putting an arrow on your attched pic so we understand where you are talking about

Max Power no sh1t, look it up!!!

I'd change the number plate location

To find the dud one, check them on a lawnmower, take the mower plug out, use a jumper lead from the spark plug lead connection to the spark plug thread [so you have contact] then pull the starter cord. The one that doesn't spark is the dud. Another quicker way is to use a multimeter and check for discontinuity between the spark plug body and the firing tip - this sometimes doesn't work, but it is a quick check and if you find one that has circuit then it is the dud one.

^^^^agreed, good read

Another thing I'd suggest [if you want to learn] is to find your local SAU club and join up - in between teaching you bad habits, they might also drop a few pearls of wisdom. Another good way is to find a reputable skyline workshop in your area and become a serial pest.

Yep, just needs bolts loosened and then spun to position for a side mount. Logic would tell you any turbo that age would might a rebuild.

I'd do what Mad said, taking the cover off and then the big spin on top is pretty straight forward. Otherwise a screwdriver and hammer works fine as well..................lol

Has your dump interfered with your wastegate flap? Did you take your 02 sesnor out and put it in the new dump? Did you plug it in? 02 sensors can be a bit fragile when they get older and it might not have liked the transfer?

If your turbo is making the dead screech now and then, then usually one off the first things damaged by this is the oil seal. You still have one, but its not sealing any more and will get worse as you use the car.

Its the milk that does it!! Avoid milk.

Old thread........but now that your awake, Not putting down 4wd systems, their attributes are real and well known. But what a lot of people forget is that there are many many performance cars out there that are still rear wheel drive and doing very well at it, so I wouldn't be selling and swapping on a whim. It all depends on what you want out of a vehicle and what suits your aims.

You tell the valve position from the camshaft lobes. To shut off a cylinder, make sure both your ex and in cam lobes are on the rock for that cylinder ie both up and/or not pressing on the bucket or shim.

probably knocking, if it comes on when your giving it a bit and flickers on and off then you need to use better fuel or booster.

You won't need anything except another flange. Everything there is recoverable. If I was doing it I'd take the front pipe and cat all off and then cut the cat out and refit and check out how far away it is from the exhaust pipe, you may need a small 3" wedding ring welded in before the flange to make up for lost metal due to cutting etc but I'd doubt it because the lack of a flange means that you have an extra 10-15mm to play with. Then you mark it up so it sits right then take it all off and just spot weld up. Refit and check you got it right, then off and weld up. Refit and jobs done. The biggest problem is getting rid of all that chook sh!t weld and getting where you want to work back to clean pristine condition ie removing all the slag and oclusions. I'd also cut that sensor adaptor out, clean it up and reweld it back in. A TIG is the best tool for all this.

It depends on how big the hole is and how the piston deformed.

should ask the guy selling it, bet he doesn't think its a waste of money.......any time you can sell crap for gold your doing OK!~!!!

bit hard to tell from the vid water pump maybe?

Hahaha your so touchy feely lachlan, stop messing about and say it like it is................

Actually ther ones that you used to be able to get that were oil filled behind the viewing glass = so the gauge range and needle is swimming in oil - always looked very trick. But yeah electronic these days is the go, no charisma, but no oil over the carpet either.

And I forgot to mention that a wet test won't help with a holed piston or missing ring segment either.

Mine has done this as well, but I didn't care because I had an AM gauge that told me OP was OK. And strangely enough, the factory oil pressure gauge eventually came good and han't done it again [probably killed it by saying this out loud now...damn].