tridentt150v

If you get a solar panel where you can access the rear connections then you can put in a blocking diode. The diode will stop overnight or really cloudy day discharge and also protect the solar panel from spikes when you start the car. If not then you can solder one into the lead, not as neat, but it works. I would always run with a regulator, solar panels can get up to 20-25 volts on a hot sunny day, a regulator will stop this charge from going straight to the battery and probably peak out at 14 volts. Also if you have a solar panel that is epoxied in then you can place the blocking diode at the regulator. We use PR10L Sunergy's and 30w solar panels everywhere and have few problems. I can't remember the size of the blocking diode, but it would be around 5mm thick and 8mm long. If anyone wants more info I'll hunt up exact gear specs and supplier contacts etc

underwhelming really, a complete re engineer and tooling up for minimal gain.......I thought the benefits would be more. where's disco - the champion of twin scroll - he'll have an opinion on this?

I know.......and if nobody else is using it

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...ts-t205993.html

Do it nicely though or prepare to be raped!

2 x20 litre bottles = 80 litres of mixture, hell you'll never have to buy meth ever again - are you drinking the stuff??? I used the SP nozzle that had 370 stamped on it, I had three to choose from and after talking to others and asking SP that is the one that was recommended - I'll see how it goes. If you want a straight drive, get a 1.5 way locker, works a treat [not so good around roundabouts though, have to be careful not to put the foot down too soon - otherwise it wants to torque steer straight]. And yeah, I ordered mine through a fuel supplier, could have got it myself, but you have all the hassles of arranging freight and most common carriers won't touch flammables.

get them to plot afr on its own graph sheet, need better resolution to see what it is. Or get a data printout.

^^^ how often do you get out past the town limits?? Do you feel threatened when you see insects on your screen, a bit jumpy at the thought of grass and tree's, can't get your head around lines of trucks and single lanes??? Go tell your idea's to the nearest R1/Fireblade/GSXR/Speed Triple/Hayabusa/Ducati etc etc etc and see what they all say, most big bikes have a power to weight ratio that dwarfs 400rwkw. TBH I only have 300, and I use the WMI for controlling detonation, but I'll aiming for more and might make 400-450rwkw soon and I'll still want more - we always do. And at the end of the day, once you have done and paid for your mods, driving a 400kw car isn't all that much more expensive than driving a 300kw car on the open road. If your cruisin' and not boosting all the time then your really driving a +2 litre in line 6, which is an economical car. Lets face it, the emphasis is on fun [in a driving responsibly sense].

I had to send my control unit back to the USA to get it repaired. Everything appeared to be working fine, screen working, values scrolling with boost and injector duty cycle, setting trigger values working, but it wouldn't trigger the pump. I knew my wiring was good because I could short the wires out behind the unit [ie bypassing the unit] and the solenoid and pump would work fine, so it had to be the control unit. Below is a reply I got from SP about it: The controller appears to have gone into a reset mode, there is no damage to it, simply needed reset. It should not happen again and if it does you will be able to take care of the issue yourself by toggling in and out of Read Only mode once. You do this by pushing button 2 then pushing button one so they are both down at the same time. The Screen will go blank, at this point let off button 1 then let off button 2. It can enter this mode if the unit gets a voltage spike. I did this when I mistakenly connected the pump wires up the wrong way around [damn]. I realised my mistake and fixed it but the damage was done, the spike had happened. A simple fix really, wish the manual had this in it, I may have never had to send it off. So this reset method could be helpful for all those out there with a Stage III unit [probably me and one other, Hi by the way....lol].

Have a close look at the banjo bolt at the block on the feed side. It usually has a restrictor built into it. If your braided lines are made up with a banjo fitting you can use the same bolt [and there is your restrictor].

Tried changing the spring size?

no fuel bender or ECU, search on R+R

Gotta love the country...Motiv 30gB for $35 on a 512/128

Go a 1.06 rear and you will see a bit more [and more lag], but you really need to think about upsizing, or an RB30 plus lift your CR to +9.0 and use that WMI kit as it was intended.

If it is the 0.63 exhaust housing you probably won't get to much more out of it anyway. And that could be why you can back off that much timing??

Lag due to piping is real, but minimal unless you are going mega long or mammoth big and is really only an issue on the racetrack. On the street the extra milliseconds it takes to boost will go unnoticed, and considering that you are likely to boost and keep boosting - ie not on and off and on and off all the time - it becomes a non issue. As an example how many of you noticed a big change in your car when you went from std to fmic, or smaller to bigger fmic. Was it that bad that you hated it, could you feel the time ticking away while you waited for it??

Try setting No. 5 to BDC and then turn it and see if there is compression, then do the same test with No. 5 on TDC. This will tell you if you have a stuck lifter etc, because if you set it to BDC on the firing stroke and then screw in a spark plug you have a full chamber of air. You can't get compression if no valves are opening, it doesn't suck in any air to compress.

mattis96, SP say as close to the nozzle as you can. The solenoid is set to open when your inje ctor and/or boost level is reached, so only sprays when its open and only opens when it sprays. But the main reason for having it is so that you don't drain your whole reservoir into your motor esp. if you park nose down on a hill. So what you have done is set your system to drain your hose length into your combustion chamber. If you aren't using your car then this fluid will pass your rings and find its way into your oil. If for some reason it doesn't get past your rings than there is the chance of hydraulic lock. ie when you go to start your motor you will be compressing water/meth and this will bend conrods/lift heads/bad shit. Having said that the length of your hose would maybe not have that much fluid in it and it may not be all that bad + if you don't park in a steep driveway or on a hill you may never ever have a problem - but I'd change it just in case.

No!!! 80-100mm before the TB. I think there is a pic in my thread showing this.

Maybe not in the city??? but out on the open road overtaking a couple of B doubles is a very normal activity and the ability to hammer it around them is very handy. The less time you spend on the other side of the road, the better off you are. You may not use all 400kw all the time, but you definitely appreciate the urgency of the motor when you put the foot down and go!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wm...html&hl=wmi

Mafia had it too, there are a few on here using it. Anyone that uses it loves the stuff.

I can't say, my control unit is back in the States getting repaired

According to the old SK formula 40-46mm assuming boost and a few other bits, so same as Nismoid give or take.

A low compression result = engine build time, it is the only real fix. It could be just a top end, but more like a complete build. You need to get your mechanic to check it out and find the reason, could be that a dyno run will help pinpoint it. I'd be surprised if its a compression problem, you would see things like oil burn, oil in the radiator, chooffing black and/or blue smoke everywhere, hard start from cold and etc etc etc For mods etc check the dyno thread.........but nothing comes cheap = if you want more power you will need more $$$$$