tridentt150v

In addition to what TiTAN said, a turbo ungrade is probably number 4 or more on the list of mods that you can do. I'd be looking at several other mods/purchases first.

vipec???? What power did you make? total?

I can't see how you could have oil leaking from the turbo, even if you did overfill the oil, it shouldn't leak there. If you started it up while it was overfull then you could get that symptom, but once you drain it and set the correct oil level it should clear. The only think you say you did was do an oil change and bam! you have blue smoke that you didn't have before. An oil change won't do that on its own. You could have blown the turbo seal, and the other turbo could also have a blown seal as well, but that is a long odds coincidence. And oil in the spark plug wells???? you haven't cooked the motor have you? a cracked head could do it. I'd be rechecking your oil level and making sure it is correct first, and assume that the oil in the spark plug wells is spill from when you filled it.

i reckon around 10 extra rwkw, if you do as blood suggests and get an ecu then 20 or so. I personally wouldn't waste my $$$ on a safc2 or anything if you intend modding because you will quickly reach its limits. Bite the bullet and go a complete ecu right from the start, you will never look back. And forget the zorst for now, what you have sounds more than up to the task, put your $$$ where you will get the best bang for bucks.

you will go up 20-40 rwkw with an ecu and those mods, you need to 'complete the chain'

sorry in the middle of some mechanical issues and can't make it

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Eb...p;hl=ebay+turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...p;hl=ebay+turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hy...p;hl=ebay+turbo

Welding a crank can be done, but it is much much more than a simple hit with the mig. If you pre heat the whole crank and use slake lime to cool it etc etc then it will work. This costs a heap more and I doubt anyone is set up to do it properly, but [as Elite says] otherwise you will see it snap at the heat location front where one side is hot as from the weld, and the other side is cold. I've had a crank welded [it was a one off crank and the splines had been flogged by a cog that when the lock tab washer snapped. You don't pick up on those sort of things until in gets noisy]. It was for a motorbike so a lot smaller easily managed - and is still working today. But the firm [which has since closed down] followed the full process - they knew what they were about and specialised in doing it. The trouble is in our throw away society these days, there are less and less craftsmen and more and more tradies!!!so sadly the art is being lost.

I can't remember the wiring, but do wipers have a relay in the set up? could be the problem?

I've got one and have another one on order for my R33 [its getting noisy again]. Only problem is I don't think they last quite as long, but since they are sub $50 with a gasket and stud set you can't go too wrong.

yep, takes a lot of power and big wings to park a rex............and how many wrx owners are wanting one of those trumpets now??? Otherwise zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Or you could sell it and buy an R33/34 etc, take a look at the cost of doing this vs the downtime and cost of engine rebuild

don't leave it too long to do though, hot exhaust gases can gouge out cast iron very quickly esp. when the metal is hot, then you would have to get it welded up and surface ground.

A turbo has corners???? Damn, mine must be a cheap one then........it's corners must have been cut off............lol Yeah, I know, weak weak weak!!!

Most of your big truck fires are oil line related. They blow an oil line, it sprays onto the manifold and up she goes!!!! And it ain't pretty watching a +$200K prime mover burning out on a highway with no firetruck for 100's of km [and no I don't drive trucks for a living].

Did all that with my Tomei's and guess what...........0

you should see the inside of a motor that has only done short in town driving......it is full of condensation and sludge in all the corners and nooks and cranny's. Some of the sludge is like black putty. All vehicles need a good long drive for a few hours every few months or so. Why do you think that semi trailers get big mileage [in millions of km] out of their Mack's/Kenworths etc, because they do haul miles not stop and start stuff

I thought he meant to gay

if they are like the Tomei poncams, set them up at 0 degrees and leave it at that, you can play around with them, but I doubt you will see any improvement over 0.

pull it down man, pull it down.....seriously, it shouldn't wheelspin that early, consider changing tyre type. 190rwkw at 110km/h but at 4090 says it is reving too much throughout the range as well, otherwise very solid result. Boosting at just sub 3000 is about right as well, in 4th I'd be doing it at around 2700 rpm with my 3076, so comparable.

is it tomorrow yet??? did anyone get his membership form, I didn't. I was going to buy a BOV with the money too!!!

you'll need more detail than that, could be a whole host of things from spun bearings, power steering, fan belt, exhaust leak or a myriad of other things.

Nice idea, but you are assuming that the turbo comp wheel is just sitting there waiting, however it is a slave to the turbine wheel. So unless your air was highly compressed to start with [ie compressor surge is an example of bad effects] then I cannot see it being of any benefit. As Titan said, less restriction is the best solution. Your idea would work much better on an NA motor. I seem to remember a couple of drag bikes that had their cylinder head in reverse. This way the faster they went, the more forced induction they achieved. This was a common thing on older parallel twins in the '60's and '70's. Triumph Bonnevilles and Norton Commando's spring to mind.

I think gas and LPG [ignoring for the moment its tendency to bleve] are good to go, I don't think a skyline is the right medium to do it. Go and get a family truckster and plumb away!!!! Not saying it can't be done, be like racing a shetland in the Melbourne Cup - knock yourself out!!!

or change the springs for softer ones, the damper is not the problem yet..........but the more soft the spring, the greater effect the damper will have to some degree, its a balancing act.