tridentt150v

Yeah, if your after highway overtaking type power then the 0.76 is the clear winner

If you have a rubber/silicon sleeve over the join with a hose clamp on either side then that is all that you need. I've never ever seen them clamp or click together.

^^^what he said

You can buy tube spanners, they are thin walled and not that exe, but once you have thw wheels off I would use the allen key ones. Tube spanners aren't meant for constant high load use.

Yeah. sometimes if it doesn't work the first time try changing how rapidly you press the switch, generally 5-7 rapid presses will not work as good as a slower press [try counting as you do it]

It hasn't been a good 10 days here, only one or two with full sun......otherwise overcast and wet. But the battery has charged up from a low of 11.65 to 12.35 volts and likely more to come. The end voltage [from measuring output] will be more like 13-14 volts. I haven't bothered measuring amperage input because of the cool and less than ideal conditions. If I get a couple of days of good warmish weather, I'll do an inline amps test and post up the results.

You wouldn't necessarily need 10 dyno runs for a boost controller, with fuzzy logic in most units you can do it on the road in a couple of runs, so dyno 1-3 runs. Talk to him and ask what ECU you have, he must have been mapping the tune for your car, that is the reason for 10 dyno runs. Also find out what turbo etc he thinks you have?

Looking at the welds and cuts I'd say it is several systems butchered up to make one plus a bit of 'custom' work, and old stuff.

Plus its another gasket surface and 'walking' area that could fail or at best leak oil

^^^Ha........and all the things that add that weight are the very things R32 owners envy, bigger motor, better brakes, newer interior, extra leg room etc etc etc all add just a little bit of wieght but make a car not a billy cart!

if its ever been registered in another state then crack dumb and say you purchased it as a 25 and never realised and was never told it wasn't.

You have a fresher motor and a new head with valves that seal great and if you openned up the head a bit then it will flow better all these things = more psi Check and see if you have any knock, no knock is great, if you do have knock then it just gives you an excuse to run with WMI - a win win

Usually a head skim on a good head takes off stuff all and as Zebra said would not really affect your comp ratio in a big way.

wastegate will be too small for that set up

No I think he wants an R32, he's into old cars............he wants one he can cut the rust out and restore!!!! An r33 won't do it for him, too new and no rust.

Or measure it with a multimeter and have an electronic/mechanical gauge hooked up and read both for nodes throughout the range, plot this up and get a line of best fit for oil pressure vs voltage and apply this to the haltech. I doubt it would be a straight line fit. not sure if this helps but a lot of electronic gauges have a sender unit that sends a voltage signal to the gauge, would one of them do it for you?

two years ago......................stand back stand back>>>thread revival, bring me the defibrillator!! Std gauges will do all sorts of weird stuff. Mine stopped working for over a fortnight and then started again and hasn't missed a beat since. If you want an aftermarket gauge, just about any electronic gauge will work OK these days.

^^^must have redback family living under it by now???

what spring rates do you have F/R?

or you could just 'hang it all' and do an RB30..............

OK, I did this today.....used a BP Solarex 10 watt panel [i can get them surplus from work] and a Plasmatronics PR1210L regulator. I routed a a wire off the postive terminal on the battery and took it around via the drivers side and along the firewall to the number plate light lead grommet. I made up a small bracket with a spade fitting and pop rivetted it to the car just above the number plate. Then I used a sealed connection plug and slid it onto the spade of the bracket. So now I have a plug just above the number plate that I can plug a solar panel lead in any time I need to. I'll see how the battery goes, its only 11.4 volts at the moment [because I'm waiting on my WMI control unit to come back from the USA], so it will be interesting to see how it responds.

Thanks, but I'm not sure I'm quite ready for that yet and I really don't want any custom software. I'm looking to learn, not have it done for me.

Yeah, thanks Nismoid, UNE has one over the web, and some business in Townsville has another option via CD Rom learning. I dfid do a bit of looking around, but my TAFE only offers a limited range [Mechanical, welding, forestry, admin, small business etc etc], so i basically have to look to a distance learning solution. Just thought 'I'll never know if I don't ask', somebody might have a course they recommend. And thanks Dean, been there done that, sort of looking to see personal experiences etc

Anyone know of any courses for microsoft access, I have few cluncky programs and processes at work and I want to get rid of them and set them up using an access platform. Other platforms considered, but I'm not a computer programmer and am not looking at anything too over the top [played with Dbase and batch files and stuff, but basic small things]. Also has to be by Distance Ed or at the TAFE? Am willing to travel a bit but constrained by my location [country NSW].

The Pro S is close to the RS, but seems to have a marginally bigger top end. It is squeezing in between the RS and the 3037 in the HKS range. All three have been around now for quite a few years. The Pro is the difference, external WG etc etc. Not sure if you can still get the Pro now though?