tridentt150v

Whats your radiator like? A Gtst running 300kw makes a bit of heat esp. on a hot day. I'd get it serviced and cleaned [or new whatever you decide]. I'd even consider an oil cooler kit as well. And you will want a boost controller, a dual solenoid one is the ducks guts. But your setup is the basis for a lot of fun............

If you are talking about E85 vs meth, why not go WMI? You get pretty much the same power boost as you would when tuning for E85 and the methanol cooler running = the best of both worlds. And you won't use much unless you are boosting, don't need huge injectors, can run on pump fuel everywhere, don't need to upgrade any fuel lines or systems and there are some great packages out there for it. Plus you can vary the amount of meth by juggling with nozzle sizes and multiple nozzles. It is on tap just waiting for you to boost it! As an example I used probably 100-150ml in 400km of highway driving and I have a 3.5 litre reservoir. I know that when you race with it it is used heaps more, but you can top up between laps etc. And mixed 50/50 WM in a container is pretty much inert.

Thats what WMI kits are for........

I disagree with the set figure idea........laws of physics - the harder you work something the greater the friction involved to do it and the greater the losses due to friction = heat. I can live with a baseline loss that you can never alter, but then your losses will increase in proportion to your friction area vs power output. You can alter or improve this in degree's by things like using a betetr oil, new bearings, teflon coating, reducing the mesh or friction area etc but you will never ever eliminate it. In cars/motors, heat is a byproduct of friction, it is an inefficiency, heat is power lost to the rear wheels. Things like diffs and gearboxes get hot via friction ]the motor does as well, but it also has combustion as a heat source], and the more power you put through, the harder you work it, the greater the heat loss.

OK, I read the whole 14 bloody pages [well...skim read anyway] and: I didn't see any mention of our SAU status, that is if you are a finanicial member of SAU Australia? Also missing the Donation tag etc Did I miss something?

When your pushing the limits, an external handles it better. Nobody [well almost nobody] has a problem with an internal at 7-10psi, but as you wind up the boost and increase the size of the turbo you will find the limits of an internal and an external gate comes into its own. I know that people on here have got their internal to behave, but it cost them several weekends, and a few remove and modifies/tunes etc before they got it [some tinarse will dispute this statement]. All us CBF'eds didn't bother we just strapped on an external and did the set and forget. I also reckon that an external is better for the future as well - if you end up increasing power/boost etc then the external has the headroom for 'growth'.

Orgasmatron

poledancer

cheese

Try here: http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals.php

RB25 pumps are around $200 [last I looked on ebay], RB30 pumps are $60 or so. I have an RB30 on my 25 and have no issues so far, but will drill and tap another hole next time we replace it.

Rb30 whole motor $100 and as a side note someone is selling Tomei 2.8 kits on ebay Australia at the moment for $7K just for the kit.

R33 is the same. The trick is you have get the mirror off [out of the mold it sits in] to see the screw. If the mirror is broken then you have no problem but if you are like me and only trying to remount the mirror because the last person who did it made a botch of it then you have to heat the mirror up - this softens the adhesive that is holding it on and then you can carefully pry the glass away without breaking it. I cleaned mine up, a final wipe with Metho, reafixed the mold to the housing with the screw and then used some windscreen silastic and set the mirror back into the mold. But I wouldn't have known how without Predators tutorial....thanks for that.

Forget it, figured out how to do it. and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...67#entry5520767

I'm trying to pull my rear view mirror apart, clean it up and re-stick the mirror. I've got the plastic cover off on the inside, undone the 3 x 10mm bolts, also undone the 3 x phillips head screws on the underside of the mirror, but now I'm stumped? I want the thing to fall apart in my hands, but I cannot see anything else to undo, and the moulded alloy bracket is still firm and won't slide or move. Anyone have any experience at this?

PM STATUS, he is on here! Has a good rep and does Skyline work.

Someone will just invent and sell a signal bender..........its a brave new market just waiting to be exploited.

gudgeon pin slipped out? It would need scour the bore for only 65psi. I'd say head gasket or bent valve, but we are all guessing until you open it up and see inside.

yep

So have I and if you can find parts cheaper then good for you, but every price I've listed is pretty much what the market rate is, if you can build one for less then you must have got a heap of free bits?

Plus a dump pipe say $300, dyno tune $500-800, air intake pipes $300, oil/water lines $250, heat shield $100 = $3700 and I probably haven't thought of everything? You can't do it for peanuts, plus I know I purchased my 3076 for $1600 but that was 2-3 years ago and if you go to GCG or someone its closer [last time I looked] to $2000. So if I use that then total is $4100. And I bet he'll need a new mani gasket and studs, so add another $200 plus labour. And with that sort of turbo I'd have an oil catch can installed so add another $200. Shit if he took some of the other prices being bandied about, he'd have a half built car and no $$$$ left to finish it. Also, I just looked at the slide show, he needs to find out what turbo he has? I see that he has a HKS actuator, the bit of turbo I can see doesn't look like a HKS unit, but it's hard to tell what it is.

Some time ago I was into american muscle cars and when I sold my daily driver and tried to get my transam insured for the road the company I'd been with for xxyears and with 60% no claim and gold card membership looked at me and said 'computer says no'. I walked out and have bomb insured ever since. I now drive and am into Skylines and look at getting full insurance from Shannons and the like, but as soon as I say that the car is heavily modified they go all quite and get very negative. For the record I haven't had an accident in 20 years and am way over 25. I'm still on bomb insurance for my Skyline, 4wd, bike, and they are all modified in some fashion or other. So I have to agree, full comprehensive insurance is a total rip off.

Out this way all the Mobil SS's have changed over to Caltex, all we have is Shell and Caltex and a few BP scattered around the place. In the town I live in, we used to have 7 fuel outlets [shell, Mobil, BP, Ampol, Caltex and an Esso]. A decade later and we have three, two Caltex and a Shell. And no choice really, they are all selling the same range and type. I'd say that E85 will be here in another 10-20 years , it will be at least 5 years though, lucky I've got WMI and don't really care.

Depends what turbo he opts for, a HKS 2835 or 3037 will nearly set him back that on its own. A 3076 is around the $2K mark then dump etc plus tune............I'll stick to my $5K, though he might get change for a meal at Macca's And I did say depending on his final preference btw [my out for overquoting ]

Based on your setup and the mods you have I'd be thinking more like 230-250rwkw=310hp which could be called 380-400bhp I guess. To go from 250rwkw to 300rwkw is $5K depending on your final preference. Add another say $10K if you rebuild the engine which you will need if you want higher power than 300.