tridentt150v

Try here: http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals.php

I had a hiflow at 250rwkw and it was sometimes pretty hard to drive. Made heaps of boost and came on hard way too early in the rev range. On wet days if you tried to accelerate in 4th from say 70 to 100km/h you'd get wheel spin all the time. Fun but a real PITA, you couldn't always count on controlling it. Not saying all hiflows are like this, but mine was. Stopping at uphill sets of traffic lights on wet days - just thinking about it used to make me break out in cold sweats. I'd plan my route to avoid having to go through them. I went to a 3076 with external gate and WMI at 300rwkw and its a totally better vehicle all round. Good reliable steady progressive power. Transformed the car, made it a damn sight easier to live with. So its not called lag, its called control to me!!! But buying and installing such a turbo takes more effort and $$$$ than one that bolts up to the std dumps etc. It really depends on your end goals and what you want to do with the car long term. Also - if you buy say a hypergear hiflow as an interim step - how easy would it be to resell later and get your $$$ back when you decide to up size??? Simple things like this can help make your build more progressive and easier on the bank account.

Sorry, i went off what a certain well respected shop told me when they looked it up - when i was buying the oil.... pretty sure they said 1.8 - but it could be my memory, maybe they said 1.3 - I can't be 100% sure. Then I didn't look it up anywhere to check either. BTW I just did a 1500km weekend and the Motul Gear Competition 75W140 worked fine, no problems. And EJD, apologies, 80w250 it is>>>sounds like a good broad viscocity base, would handle a lot of situations.

bubba can you post up a pic or a link of the setup? sort of interested in seeing the display for datascan?

Not sure for 20>25, but it depends on the RB25 model as well, VCT etc in later models changes the mix

A pod filter makes a bit more noise than a std one, you probably haven't heard your motor sucking like that before????

80-250 doesn't sound right, didn't think you could get the viscosities that far apart in an oil??? Maybe 80w150????

Can anyone tell me the capacity of a Nismo diff. A std diff is 1.8 litres, i just did my Nismo and it only took 1.35 litres and thats after I double checked!! It flowed out the fill hole twice so it has to be full, but I'd like to have my figures confirmed - peace of mind and all that.

Knock control not knock sensor.......

STd BOV is better anyway..........no need to change it. Do a search on stalling and BOV's and see the problems aftermarket ones cause. DVS32R was talking about the inbuilt adjustment, lots of BOV's have adjustment to increase or lower pressure release levels. BTW you need a password to look at that pic.......use your SAU pic account - accessible to everyone then.

Anyone?

You don't need to get it retuned........wait until you have other mods installed that will affect the tune as well. You may want to get it tuned???

http://au.news.yahoo.com/thewest/a/-/offbeat/9046297/bicycle-made-with-computer-printer/ A bicycle made of nylon is said to be as strong as aluminium and steel - and yet it was made using a printer and computer. The fully functioning cycle weighs 65 per cent less than a regular bike. "Scientists in Bristol designed the bike on a computer and sent it to a printer, which placed layers of melted nylon powder on top of each other to build-up the machine," The Daily Mail has reported. "Individual components such as gears, pedals and wheels are usually made in different factories and assembled into a finished bike but the Airbike is a single, complete part. "The wheels, bearings and axle are incorporated into the 'growing' process, known as Additive Layer Manufacturing." The Airbike - made by the European Aeronautic Defence and Space group - could be built to the rider's specifications and required no adjustment, conventional maintenance or assembly, The Mail said. "The 3-D printing method allows products to be made from a fine powder of nylon, carbon-reinforced plastics or metals such as titanium, stainless steel or aluminium," The Mail said. "They are drawn using computer-aided design and then sent to a printer, which is filled with the powdered material. "A computer splits the 3-D design into many 2-D layers and a laser beam is used to melt the powder material into the first of the layers. "This is then covered by a new layer of powder and the process is repeated with the next 'slice'." The manufacturing process used about one-tenth of the material required in traditional methods, reducing waste. "The technology is likely to be used in industrial applications such as aerospace, the motor industry and engineering," The Mail said.

Need rear boot trim and front floor mats for a SII R33 Gtst......must be in immaculate condition, not interested in dirty, ciggie holes, faded etc Top price for the right stuff.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/291720-r33-on-dash-triple-gauge-holder/page__p__4904436__hl__triple+gauge+holder__fromsearch__1#entry4904436 or http://cgi.ebay.com/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-GTST-GTS-GTR-DASH-GAUGE-HOLDER-/260736197575?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb516a3c7

Maybe with a $500 price tag and a 5 year warranty????????? but otherwise others are doing it, have the market, have the network and have the backup. Pity i thought this was actually going somewhere. Edit: You need a difference, a market edge, not sure how or what, but thats for you to find.

Sounds like you have a later model SII R33 cluster, sell it and buy an earlier one.

Obviously you have never seen under the saddle of a winner at the [horse] races!!! Many a provincial race has been won with a little electrical help - they generally don't do it at city meets, too much scrutiny.

If you can afford new pipes and dumps then you can afford a better turbo!!!! Plus your manifold etc will fit other T3 RB turbo's that are suitable. So sell it!!!!

I think everyone is missing the point.....a 1.8hp horse is all well and good, but I reckon you'd get 2.5hp outa that sucker if you fed him on high octane oats and molasses. Whereas your every day draught horse would be better on a slow release fuel like meadow hay, work all day long at 0.7hp. And a Shetland pony well their just cranky f**kers and want to bite everyone so don't feed them anything!!!! Plus you'll get another 0.25hp out all of them if you use a battery

The type of job he will do will be based on the type of motor he is building[or not]. If he isn't going to open the motor then loctite, if he is doing a rebuild then a new crank. I've also seen a step keyway used as a repair BTW [not on a Skyline]. It also involves getting the crank out so it can be machined.

I run the 4" Garrett 3076 with 3" reducer and have no issues. Now I know that the specs for the HKS are different and could do different things, but all things considered, I reckon you'll be fine with it.

old school, probably a $500 special.......you will not get response from that one,have a look at the dyno thread and see what sort of response you would get with a decent better matched unit.

If it hit hard enough to bend the valves and crack the guides I'd be concerned not just with the head!!!! Contrary to what has been said, I'm not so sure it just lightly tapped the piston for that.

I'm not too keen on stainless and heat, they expand a lot more than high tensile, this allows the gasket/sealant to walk or loosen. but saying that you can get s/s that doesn't expand as much, but its not as common. I'd go high tensile bolts and crush nuts or split nuts