tridentt150v

Why don't you use a set of cobalt drills and just cheese it and see if that makes a difference? Buy a 10-15mm bit and say a 5mm bit. Use the 5 as a starter and then finish with the bigger one. Otherwise stones/tungsten carbide bits in a diegrinder tool or drill will do it if your patient. The other method is a hole saw, but it would have to be a good qual one for s/s and a big one, say 4" and good luck holding that [it can be done but will be a bitch to control].

Is the restriction s/s? Make it harder to cut out of it is, s/s is a pain.

^^^^this man knows And it all depends on what you want to do with it.......a suburban cruiser, who cares buy whatever you like, VW, Rover, X5, Jeep, Cayenne blah blah..........a real workhorse real 4wd, buy a Lancruiser, Hilux, Dmax, Colorado, Prado etc etc doesn't matter how the leather seats feel or good your ride comfort is if it stops and doesn't go between Camerons Corner and Alice Springs, you'll end up like Burke and Wills.

Then it should have a tick against it in the service book/log to acknowledge that it was changed. BTW did this happen before or after The Great War? Also Consumer Affairs [or whatever it is called in each state] told me that if you fix the problem then your case for compensation is pretty much gone!!! You have to give the business a chance to make good.........and then you present your case to CA if they won't.....and then they may [depending on if they are found libel or not] be compelled to fix it or pay you out for getting it done. Then you can get it fixed. I know I just went through all this with Ford Australia - in the end I needed my 4wd, so fixed it myself [and paid for the parts] - Dept of Fair Trade warned me that if I did then Ford had no case to answer to. But considering - and this is the game big companies who don't give a shit play - that I'd already been driving a faulty vehicle for 18 months and couldn't put up with it any longer, I fixed it. PS vehicle would stop and you couldn't restart unless towed or bump started then it would work fine for days/weeks until it happened again. No problem on a hill, not so good nose to kerb parked

If its shuddering, you might be up for a new flywheel. You've probably [or the person before you] put 'hot spots' on the flywheel, you can try machining them out but it really isn't worth the hassle. Better with a new one.

Unlikely to be the turbo, it does nothing at idle. Also not sure it is a mapping problem. But if I translate your car sounds correctly, I think: 1. vacuum leak somewhere, or 2. lazy fuel pump 3. coil pack failing 4. TPS needs a clean 5. AFM needs a clean There are DIY's in the Tutorials section.

Is anyone using one of these??? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Boost-Controller-WRX-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-RX7-/190353202750?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c51ef5e3e I know that they are chinese and probably knock offs of Blitz or some other known brand...........but nearly everything is these days. On Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday they make them and put XXXX name brand stickers on them.......on Thursday and Friday they cut out the middle man and sell them without the sticker. And the price is right + an Oz agent so you'd be theoretically buying locally?? i'll probably still get a Blitz dual solenoid, but it would be good to hear from others before I do this. PS I searched on PCPA and came up with turbo threads only.

Iridium plugs are supposed to be for 100,000km or something like that, but that is in a family car. They also supposedly don't spark as well as coppers do. I'd check your plug gap and reduce it to 0.8mm and see. If you do that to iridiums be careful not to scrape the iridium coating off or damage them, they are [or so I've been told] more 'fragile' than coppers. I binned mine a while ago, not sure if it helped, but it def didn't hurt and I'm at a power level where I don't want any doubt in the back of my head. You probably need to get your fuel pressure tested......a 5 minute job at most workshops, they can do it while U wait. This will tell you if enough fuel is getting through and help point to the weak link [fpr, pump, filter].

New??? Try Landers or Lincorp in Sydney

To use a HKS cast low mount you have to shave the engine mount. We've all done this and it works fine. Or you strap it to a 25/30 and the extra height in the block lets the turbo clear it anyway. I took off approx. 10mm using a small angle grinder and a sanding disc - cover everything before doing this dust goes everywhere.

If you are talking about an open compressor side ie bellmouth - then no, they don't get reversion in the real sense. Any reversion effect is vented to atmosphere.

Pity about the central locking thing, if you ever get any that have that and it can be tuned to the car I'd be interested. BTW R33's [late model ones have CL.

spark plugs fuel pump fuel reg afm ignitor box coil fuel filter just for starters

a locksmith - auto experienced one will do it

FYP

2% oh yeah right, so thats 6 rwkw of extra throbbing uncontrollable power in 300.

warp city..........your block and head would need surfacing. but as others have said, why bother, replace it with a 25.

At what stage does it hit R+R or experience knock [without an ecu or bender]???? Don't answer, I don't care, its a rhetoric question.

7 10 without a ebc/valve 8 maybe????? 140/160

do a search on the net, but unless your buying from the US of A [and the savings can be good or can be marginal and no warranty or aftermarket support] then GCG or one of the other Garrett agents would be the best bet. BTW the 3076 is a good turbo choice, very happy with mine, nice spread of power.

great timing............

Before you go too far you may need to check how many blades you have as well..........I though I read somewhere [not first hand experience here so please just make sure I'm not talking crap] that some of the GT30 'specials' used a 7 instead of a 9 blade etc etc Just don't want you throwing good $$$$ looking for a result that may not be achieved anyway. Silk purses and sows ears!!!

Poor fuel = knock and that can sound like lifter rattle [it can also sound much worse as we all know] just sayin' If you always have poor fuel and it seems to be affecting your engine reliability esp. at higher boost levels -, and you can't get good fuel - why don't you try WMI as a solution?

Sounds more like less air getting through to me>>>choke symptom But also maybe check your afm connection.

what makes you so sure its lifters, or should i say a lifter?