tridentt150v

I'll take it......will you post? And I assume its for a Gtst?

Is the boot $100 the boot trim? Pls PM me

Whichever one your tuner likes and uses!!!!

And again......please PM me, so I'll know you've replied.

The main thing is, it goes lean [but not engine destroying lean, just leaner than you want it to be] when you increase the revs. It is not lean until you get up in the range. This means that it passes enough fuel for down low but leans off up high = a lazy pump or a clogged filter.

Sorry Richard, in at 0900hrs so an 0600hrs start for me..........then out by 1500hrs so a 1730hrs finish [just in time to beat the 'roos's]. I'll try and get to a social night and catch up maybe?? Bloodywell coulda done with a cold drink or two as well!!!!!! And RPO71, your car needs a clean....lol, but should be good once the new motor is in and happening, looked good.

Update, Glenn dyno tuned my car on Thursday and did a great job as per usual. Met Grant and Aaron as well, thinking about giving them my dirty 30 to play with [as a spare and to install when I'm ready]. Good team of guys, esp. impressed with grants cleanliness and attention to detail with a 2JZ he was assembling for someone. And my tune [so my world] is good.

Start car, better with a mate, so he can blip the throttle. Take your oil filler cap off and see if it is breathing heaps = indicates blowby = rings/liners worn. Keep a rag handy,so you can half cover the hole just in case it starts to spit oil. Do it with a couple of cars if you can so you can see the difference.

Is it using oil?

Just get your fuel system flow checked first, it could be a filter instead?

None, love it, works faultlessly. And no its not for inefficient cooling alone, it is for too high a compression, low fuel octane, and an extra 30rwkw. Where I experienced knock had nothing to do with overheating. However having said that, the heat and burn rate inside the combustion chamber was likely not as controlled as it should have been. But when you are ramming more of everything into it [fuel, boost etc] then it is to be expected at some point. There are other solutions to solve it [E85, lower compression pistons /thicker gasket, smaller turbo etc], but I chose WMI Dyno charts attached.

Well there is 10% more power, and I know that the curve is fatter in all area's, and seat of the arse says it definitely feels quicker all round, but that can be considered as being all pretty subjective - by some. Honestly making more power was a bonus, I really wanted fuel taken out [it was riched up to counter bad knock levels = the reason I went WMI]- so a better tune.

An extra 30 kw and knock levels below 20 so zip really. Very happy with it. Now to build up my dirty 30 I have on the shed floor.........prob only take me a decade or so..........lol.

OK, thread raised from the dead.........I made 301.5rwkw today on a DD dyno. I drove it around without a tune [that used the WMI] like forever...............it wasn't knocking and the car was making good power etc and I am a bloody busy bugger!!! But I finally made the time and had it tuned. Run before tune made 270rwkw, then we kept adding timing and pulling fuel out until we had a good overall balance and got 300 on 16psi for the final run. I probably could have got more if I wanted to up the boost to say 18-20psi, but considering my motor is not built, I didn't think it was worth the risk. I'll scan the plots and post soon. Apologies to all who were waiting for this, I just couldn't get to it any sooner.

Oh Ho!!!

school hols ppl!!! Anyone remember the cadillac V8's.....they took a petrol motor and slapped deisel heads on it during the '80's fuel crisis, it worked but nobody liked it.

+1

PM sent.

Is ESP still the same guys? I remember Glen and Dan [or at least I think I do], are they still there?

I hate Sundays......

not sure about the clutch one.......sounds like badly adjusted or dragging? The clicking is uni joints or maybe diff bearing [where the drive shaft enters the diff], but I'd say uni joints.

It was hiflowed by GCG in Sydney, not sure if it was a completely std turbo to start with, it came on the car. From memory it went from 50/7? to 56/76 but I could be wrong there, I gave all the paperwork to the person who bought it off me. I also had other mods that allowed the 250rwkw to be made [fmic, pfc, tomei cams, dump, exhaust, hiflow cat, z32, etc etc]. But as I said I didn't like its power delivery, was not as progressive. The 3076 makes 50kw more power but has a much better power delivery and more of it [in the rev range] where you need it. If I was you I'd send Stao from Hypergear a PM and get one of his units, only ever heard good things about his product.

Thats a nice cougar, quintessential USA muscle car.

you won't get 2 litres in a diff........1.3 to 1.5 depending on how you fill it.

^^^still winning friends and influencing people I see.........you should wear your undies on the outside!!!