tridentt150v

Say Hi to Shrek for me!!!

Yeah, true...but more torque so doing it a bit easier.....so I'm not sure and wanted to get some real world feedback. And 650km to a tank is very very good. I'm happy at 550km [and thought I was doing OK till now].

I drove around with knock levels at +100 for aprox 12 months. And it was real knock. I just monitored it, took it easy, and didn't do anything silly. So no panic, but do get it seen to as soon as you can. i didn't do it sooner because i was installing my WMI and few other things, so I let it wait. I actually drove to the GC and back approx. 3,000km while it was like this. My problem and solution was totally different to yours though [my knock couldn't be tuned out, and I luuuuuuuvvvvvvv WMI]. WMI actually increased my fuel economy, gave me an extra 30kw, and I lost my oil consumption due to overfuelling [tuned in/used to compensate for the knock, a dirty solution that only partially worked]. So now I go further, go harder, and don't use any oil

not even worth selling for $20, it it was me I CBF packaging it. Its a recyle bin job!

Thanks, yeah, not interested in E85, nonobtainium in country. On a drive from Melbourne to Brissy you'd have to fill your boot as well, you'll not find it in 3/4 of the country towns up the Newell etc. Would have been good if you'd done a total fuel vs mileage and had an average....but its a start.

Talking about the dip, it gets better afterwards, you can drive through it, but dips as it starts to make power.

Sorry if this has been covered before, but when I did a search I got all the ones from the FI section and not just the RB30 section. Link it if you know of it. When you went from an RB25 to an RB25/30 did your fuel consumption increase at all? Interested in litres/100km, not your tank etc, and highway miles not around town. I've done and seen increase in capacity actually lower fuel consumption [good] but also increase it [not so good]. I ask this because I mainly use my skyline for long trips and I like the power - and an RB25/30 is my next step - but I don't really want to majorly adversely affect my economy. If you could list your consumption and rwkw as a comparo that would be good. I presently get 10.8/100km at 300rwkw out of my RB25 [not a thirty yet]. Thanks

At 20psi [and the supporting mods] you would be making 300rwkw with a genuine 3076. You have the supporting mods. And leaning out at 4-45000rpm, do you get any knock? I am surprised that ppl don't do more research before they slam 2g's on the table for a turbo - plus all the other $$$$for peripherals and tune etc. There is enough info on this site for anyone to see what they can expect when they buy Turbo brand XX to know that in some instances you have to either be happy with a 'restricted' performance or walk away!!! And if your ever unsure, slip somebody a PM and talk to them. There are plenty on here that I annoyed before I made the decision........but thankfully I listened to them and followed their advice [son of rajab knows why, I'm usually so pigheaded].

Are you from Punxsutawney?

No>>>short term power up followed by turbo wheel disintegration.......lol, but they will do it.

Don't clap, throw money!!!

No not good for, better at!!! Anyway I can remember having fun in a Torana GTR years ago [amongst other candidates], so fun is relative. And cruising in a Pontiac Transam, or any bigger heavier car as opposed to a light short wheel base noddy. But I get your point.

agreed....you'd get that out of a std turbo...lol

What about fuel??? how long exactly has it been 'sitting around'??? Maybe your fuel is off???

Is it a real 3076??? sounds more like one of those choke-aholic hybrids?

That depends on what your practical day to day situation is!!!! If your cruising at 110km/h Adelaide to Sydney for up to 10 hours at a time I'd probably take the GTR, if your in traffic or going up tight mountain passes then the Evo. Horses for courses IMO, and you choose the car that best suits your individual needs.

I can't afford to use a cheapie..........I drive big trips in the country and do not want to be stuck 10 miles from bumf**k at 2 o'clock in the morning. I don't dispute that a chinese turbo will give the same or similar performance, I paid [or hope I did] for the dependability that a company like Garrett base their business on. I have to say so far, so good.

Dry cells are more prone to it, but all batteries hate being unloved!!! If you use a battery in a daily driver you will get 4-6 years out of it. If you use them in a special car with infrequent use then you will be lucky to see 12-18 months. You can try it on warranty, but you'll have to bend the truth to suit if they start asking questions. Buy a trickle charger or a solar panel and regulator [i'm lucky we use them at work]

Or a boost leak

If its a cheap runaround throw some bars leak into it. Warm the motor up and then take it for a gentle drive for 30 minutes. Should fix the leak. I'd say you have a coolant leak into one of your cylinders and it only happens when it warms up. So you basically burn the water and it doesn't make the sump sso also the oil. It will get worse though and will do it eventually so its important to use the bars leak now. Chemiweld is another brand.

I would only get around 18 months of battery life after letting it go flat and then recharging. To make matters worse, you will be using the battery, driving along fine, no warning at all. You will pull up to get fuel or a drink and go to start and it will be as dead as a maggot. I was stuck at a servo in the country at 1.30 in the morning like this. My battery was fine all day, no hint of a problem and then it was flat. I eventually got a push start and it went OK, but when I got it home [around 100km later] it would not take a charge, the charger didn't want to do it = dead short or wide open circuit. ie the charger doesn't see a battery at all.

Try recharging, but the cells on a dry cell battery calcify pretty easily. You can recharge the battery but it will go flat quicker from now on. And you lose battery life as well. Any 12 volt charger is fine, but even though you recharge, you cannot reverse the damage - sorry. The best solution is to use a trickle charger all the time if you don't drive it regularly. I actually use a solar panel and a SP regulator because I work away from home a bit [at Bourke NSW now, so miles from home]. I had two dry cell batteries stuff up on me from sitting around. So I thought with this one that I'd do something about it - and it is working OK so far. Battery is always topped up and ready to go.

std is good, others probably work OK, but you can't go past std. Edit: replace your studs while your at it, don't use the old ones!!!

You have an AM rear bar, they are normally plastic. What you have said sounds fine to me though, its about what I'd do with fibreglass, epoxy it up, filler and sand back then paint.

My oil temp sits on 85' all day on the highway. It will go up to 90-95' on a +40'C day. I no longer use a water temp gauge, just use the std one. OT, EGT and OP now. I found water temp not that much use, it didn't tell me anything that the std gauge doesn't say [except that the std one has no graduations or values on it]. I just did a +900km trip in one day and my temp stayed on 80-85' till night time and them it shot up to 90'C, but that was due to the midges [see my other thread in FI section]. 90'C for oil is still good to go.