tridentt150v

Not really related, but I once built an engine for somebody [had them there watching and being my gopher], strapped the head on and started to set the valve clearances and the motor wouldn't turn over TDC [turning it by hand]. Would go up and clunk, not hard, but a solid lock, I didn't force it like my gopher wanted me to do.....lol hitting the head, I 'd wound the valve adjusters out so knew it couldn't be them??? I stripped the head off and all the pistons were coming up proud in the bore by 2-3mm. Went and got the boxes the pistons came in and they were the correct ones by the box and part numbers. And it was a major and trusted company. It was something I didn't check.......didn't expect it. I ended up sending them back to the business that I got them off and had another set sent to me. They couldn't believe it either - and wasn't their fault, the wrong pistons had come in the right box from the factory. We couldn't even figure out what engine the pistons were for? The gudgeon pin height was set lower in the piston giving it more length at TDC. the piston dia was good, the rings and lands fit, but the wrong pin height. It wasn't a Nissan BTW.

I bent the f**k out of a sidchrome 3/16" whitworth spanner. Was hanging off it with a peice of steel tube about a yard long. I went to my local agent and they replaced it no questions asked. And it was 10 years old.

Nothing wrong with Bahco..... Sidchrome - dear as but one of the best you can get Kinchrome - very good, but buy their premium range cos they also sell cheaper versions sometimes Snap On - I don't own any, but supposed to be good Dowidat - german excellence, not quite as common as it used to be, but a top brand Blackhawk - make the best small spanner set you can find [as in little spanners] VBW - make good stuff. usually extractors or stud removers Eastwing - are the best claw hammers Wiss - tinsnips/cutters Dawn - vices Visegrip - visegrips although theres another brand with blue covered handles that I've got that is also good [name escapes me for now] Maun - best hole punch sets Masterfix - the best rivnut set and the list goes on........... There are others, but you get what you pay for. I have a Repco tool set for my work vehicle [supplied] and it seems OK - but I probably wouldn't buy one personally - the other brands listed do the same job and I trust them. You need to buy good tools Longz, I don't want any rounded off nuts or broken studs on that R34 of yours...........when I win the lottery [and don't spend so much on tools] I'm buying it!!!!

As beer baron says do a compression test - motor needs to be warm for this. Then after the 'dry' compression test, squirt a bit of oil into each cylinder and do the test again. This will tell you if its rings - if you get the same result and its high for both tests then its not your rings, if its higher after the oil then its rings. One thing to remember when doing a test is to do all the cylinders the same way. And don't wind the motor over heaps of times before you take a reading, all your doing is getting a cumulative pressure which will tell you zip. If it isn't rings then you start to look at valves and guides - but I'm not sure thats your problem.

Its two half cuts welded together........thats how they got the four doors!!!

check your AFM hasn't been unplugged.

My offer still stands.......

Yep, buy hookers and alcohol!!!

Install a bride/recaro seat etc lowers you by a few inches, cheaper that buying a 350 and FI'ing it!

I think the write up pointed out that you got what you paid for!!!! Plus I got the impression [from the write up again] that both auto's gave a lot of car for the money. ie they are likely the bag for bucks bargains of their time. I know that there are other cars out there that perform and have flowing curves, but you pay a lot more for them. And to reinforce my thinking on this, neither writer found anything wrong with either car - in fact they grudgingly admitted that they liked both cars for what they could do and in their own way. And if it was me, I'd own either of them over Porsches and Ferrari's and other exotics - because I know that in 10 years time I would still be driving them and watching the 10 year old exotic being loaded [yet again] onto the tilt tray = mechanical repairs. Its the one thing that motoring write ups don't cover, the long term reliability of the car. The reason you see Range Rovers winning every award possible from all corners of the earth, but if you drive around Australia, in the outback etc all you will see is Toyota Landcruisers/Hiluxes, and Nissan Patrols etc. Nobody in their right mind would do this in a Range Rover, you'd end up stuck out in the Simpson Desert or something.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/333222-engine-loom-connector-shells-and-replacement-terminals/page__p__5672404__hl__plug__fromsearch__1#entry5672404 and call the guy on this thread.

Yep, thats what it is. In 1997-98 and immediately prior to the R34 there were a few R33's made that had a few different things about them. The 40th Anniversary model was one of them. You could say they are a series 2.5, but they are not recognised as such. There is a thread some where on here with differences between models, not sure if the '98 is covered though. They are not a Neo. If you get Tomei cams then order for the '98 R33, otherwise the CAS key will be wrong.

^^^and no $$$$ left in the pocket, broke till next payday

and not so stupid at all!!! The other advantage over e85 is that you carry WMI with you, and E85 is only in the metro areas. So if you want to go from say Melbourne to Broken Hill or Alice Springs or even Brisbane then you will not find e85 except at Sydney and then you have to look for it. Based on my driving, I'd get 6,000km out of my 4 quart = 2.8 litre tank. And if your stuck then you can use certain types of windscreen washer fluid, those that are 70% methanol and 30% other stuff.

Yes, they say there is little benefit from running E85 and WMI, NOS and propane shots seem to be the next step. The other alternative is to run straight methanol, you lose some of the cooling effect, but gain substantially in octane numbers and power delivery. But, like all such volatile fuels the danger limits are much higher as well. Melting pistons and methanol fires, and propane explosions are mentioned. However most seem to run with either 75/25 or 50/50, methanol when mixed in these ratio's is pretty much inert. Your gasoline tank is more of a danger than a 75/25 or 50/50 mixture.

This is a good answer I've lifted from the aquamist site explaining the cooling effect: For more info please visit: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1832 Originally Posted by Richard L The following charts are calculated based on: 10Kg of air, Gasoline's latent heat capacity of 350KJ/Kg Water's latent heat capacity of 2256KJ/Kg Methanol's latent heat capacity of 1109KJ/Kg Injection water at different ratio to fuel at 100% water and 75% Water/25% Methanol. You can see the at 100% water injection, only 3% of w/f fuel ratio is enough to replace 2.5 point of a/f ratio (dotted line). As soon as 25% of Methanol is added, the a/f ratio is dropprd to 12.0 - loosing some cooling capacity Each of the following chart show a 25% percent increase in Methanol concentration of the mix. lastly, just methanol is added and no water. The chart on the right is 100% water The two charts show (first and last) that you will require to inject twice the amount of methanol to equal the latent heat of water alone. Methanol is relatively low cost and very effective as a coolant so what is the problem? When higher concentration of methanol is injected, you need to lean your engines a/f ratio to accommodate the extra fuel or your engine will bog down and loose power. Consequentially - one runs the risk of putting the engine into heat stress if the supply of methanol is suddenly interrupted. Injecting water does not affect the a/f ratio. It appears that 50/50 mix has the best of both worlds. In either cases, having a good w/a injection system with reliable "system fault" diagnostic capability is essential especially if you are running a high concentration of Methanol. __________________ Richard L aquamist technical support

Rolls I'd think that you would get an extra 30rwkw out of it. On the forums they say that 93 octane with 50/50 wmi is 116 octane. Its not what I say, but is quoted on the forums again and again. So what would your motor do with a cooler combustion chamber and 116 octane fuel? I remember seeing a really good graphical plot on the differences between no wmi, 50/50 wmi and 100% meth. I'll see if I can find it, but it was a while ago. In the meantime is you look at: http://www.snowperformance.net/forum/ and http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/index.php you will get a good idea of the benefits. There are others as well, but these pretty much cover it all.

Have a look at how I mounted mine in the ash tray recess: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/306109-my-wmi-install/ No cutting or anything, pretty much a straight fit with some small brackets to hold it there.

I have the 2.8 Ltre tank and for normal highway miles I can do 2000km on a long weekend and am lucky to use 1/2 a litre. I am usually sitting on 100-120km/h with overtaking and accelerating etc, the normal stuff. So unless you are racing all the time the small tank is heaps. I didn't need 10 litres sloshing around when I couldn't use it.

Is anyone else using one? I've got my settings at 30-65 IDC and 8-14 psi and was wondering what others were using? Also has anyone tried passing emissions with a WMI kit fitted?

I'd save all that $$$$$, you'll need it for your court case and bus fares!!!

Haha you need to drink more and get your camera hand steady BTW free bump for a bargain.

I'll take the seats and cards if Shifty doesn't have first offer. PM me and let me know.

Whats your boot trim like? any good?

Well you didn't start out too well.......but....everyone deserves a go....and I'm no stone thrower. Keep it clean, keep it on topic, and no crap and you'll do OK [except for the wastelands, thats different]