tridentt150v

It says that the source for the article is Turbobygarrett at the bottom of page 5. Interesting, not sure I'm ready to upgrae from my 3076R just yet.

I agree, maybe the UK would be a better option, but it still works out as a bargain if you can do it. Look at how many Oz under 30's spend time in England. And there are probably other countries that you could use as well? Not saying there is profit in it, but jeez we are ripped off something chronic here.

Just had a price comparison sent to me from a company.....not my figures, but if you had a job waiting and the dollars to invest and then bring the car back as a personal import, it sort of makes it pretty attractive to plan or think about it. I didn't verify these figures, but if they are true [and I have no reason to question overly them] then its a big difference. Car Price Comparison at Least Favourable Exchange Rates Vehicle Aust Price US Price UK Price Mercedes Mb 300 $93,859.00 $48,840.00 $68,801.00 Subaru WRX STI $66,928.00 $35,815.00 $54,225.00 And before anyone starts, yeah I realise that you have an airline ticket, import duties, freight and other add on's to consider. But if you were thinking about one of these cars [or something similar] and already had the opportunity for work etc then it makes it all pretty interesting.

prob a already done it but, tried the cefiro section?

ha ha yr supposed to do them up with a wheel brace - not just finger tight!!!

It's probably been posted elsewhere - I'm usually a day late and a dollar short!! http://theage.drive.com.au/motor-news/ferrari-blitzes-bathurst-20111115-1ngqq.html

You dash shouldn't light up on accessories? It will light up in the run position. Your airbag light should light up when you start the car and then go out after approx. 5-10 seconds. Your handbrake light will come on if you engage the handbrake while the motor is running or it is in the run position. If they aren't coming on then, then you have a wiring or fuse issue.

Not much choice there......you might have to put up and shut up unfortunately.

Neo only, 33 ones are different. '98 late model 33's are supposed to be the same as early model 34's. Otherwise you have issues with the different keyways in the end of the cam.

turbo seals.....new, s/h std turbo off the FS section, or reco the one you have. approx costs $2000/$300/$1500 but like Jez says do a comp test just to be sure - the results of which might help you determine which turbo route you will choose as well.

Pistons and rings won't be expanded on a cold motor, valves and guides as well. You'll generally get lower readings and a lot more variation between cylinders. {lus as SargeRX8 says oil as well. Motor needs to be at operating temp - or at least very warm.

ebc>>>evc>>>depends on who makes it. Electronic Vacuum Controller. Nothing wrong with the mushroom, its fine as long as you have the triple layer dry element. Best unit for your AFM, no oil to get sucked in and contaminate. And contrary to what people say, they don't leak, they have a good seal and a much better filter setup than the unifilter wet type which are single layer filters.

good to here, glad to be of help, last thing your car needs is another hole to leak through. If you got t through the original grommet then no probs, but if you had to peirce the grommet then use a bit of silastic to seal it again.

ecu, evc, and turbo upgrade is the go

I doubt you would warp the block. More likely to have scuffed a bore/piston.

cheapest is to replace the head gasket. Get the head lightly skimmed and tit should be right. As long as its not cracked or gouged anywhere.

Good tip, thanks.

Chinese metal for things like your talking about is usually terrible stuff to play with. Its usually recycled tseel with inclusions all through it. And then you say it is an exhaust pipe or some such - double whammy. Nothing like exhaust pipe for dirt and crap in the metal.

They usually have a stand at farm machinery days and will weld up any alloy part you bring in to get done. They are very good at it and make it look very easy. I've tried it in different things and it works OK, but I found that using the normal commercially available alloy brazing flux and 10% mag rods is about the same. This was using a Dillon/Henrob oxy.

ashtray time............

yep, hotrodders and modifiers do it all the time, but they generally pick on ford 9", chevy 10 bolts, or jaguar diffs etc etc I even had landcruiser diffs front and back on my Hilux [supercharged 3.8 v6 holden conversion], so it can be done.......

I have to ask..........why???? There are spare skyline and falcon diffs aplenty, so why?

Don't have one for a Krico .222 do you?

get it on a dyno, it won't work best until you get it tuned I reckon

No No No Run it through the top drivers side corner gaurd hole and then remove the gaurd liner [may need to remove the wheel as well] and you'll see a hole and grommet where the harness comes in under the drivers side kick panel area.