tridentt150v

Check your earth strap where it's bolted to the frame - scrap it, scratch it, clean it. I'd also try running another earth strap direct to the motor [one jumper lead is fine]. But obviously don't drive with a jumper lead, its just a check to make sure your earth is working and reliable.

GL, HKS I'm guessing? If they want $500, and you can't crack it then you might be better off with something else anyway?? Your call really.

Thanks, thats what I was looking for, just ordered one through them........now sit back and wait!!!

Has anyone replaced their under bonnet mat??? if so what did you use/where did you source one??? I' have been looking but generally running around in circles and getting nowhere. And for those that must lose weight by all means possible - apologies but I don't....so I'd really like to source a new or near new under bonnet mat. Thanks in advance!!!

What you going to do with all that room??? Guess you could rent it out

"Have to admit there's been a few times I've wished for a hole like that. With my luck the socket would fall off then drop down in the bottom cover………." At least you wouldn't be worried about belt tension noise then..............so many other noises you wouldn't hear it !!! lol The only advice I'd give the Op is just check and maybe try loosening the fan belts first and see if the noise goes away??? easier to do this and check if the noise isn't from one of them first. Of cause if it doesn't solve it then its the timing belt. Also new timing belts [assuming you did a kit and fitted new belt, idler and tensioner wheels..if not then you probably should have] are noiser than your old one so live with it for a bit and see if it beds in?

VB cans work, bed in easily. I tried Four XXXX but got all crossed up and ended up in the pissed n' broke/piston broke club!!!! Real answer - It depends on your power goals vs your budget. Standard takes more of a hammering than we all thought they would. Then theres plenty of aftermarket and none have a bad reputation, as somebody said its not the product its the build you get that is the defining limit.

Bump

If you do by a Ford, they are great and cheap to run/fix, just dont count on a decent warranty support. Not an XR6, but the 4wd drive Ford I purchased brand new was buggered from day one. 3 year warranty and nothing done in that 3 years that I didn't pay for and/or do myself to fix it. All Ford ever did was 'circle the wagons' and wait for the warranty to run out. Once it did they told me to go away. I rebuilt the front end, replace 6 starter motors, new air con compressor, new air con condensor, replaced rear diff bearing and seal, new alternator, new 4wd module, new speedo cluster, new front discs, and probably a heap of sh!t I've forgotten. I argued with my local agent and even went to Ford Australia all to no avail. So I ended up doing it or getting it done all myself. I went to Dept Fair Trading and they said the same thing - don't even bother wasting your time, they had a file that would take a small forest to make enough paper. They even said Ford was a big company and was actively engaged in NOT honouring their warranty [not my words]. I'll never ever buy anything Ford ever again, period. So maybe the power figures are good, and maybe they are OK to drive...........I honestly just don't want anything to do with a company that doesn't stand by their product. I'm sorry for all the guys who lost their jobs, but I'm not sorry Ford is closing down, we honestly don't need that type of behaviour.

Also found this on another website: Coulson, Richardson & Sinnott report that: aluminium, aluminium bronze, brass, copper, gunmetal and bronze, high Si iron, nickel, nickle-copper alloys, platinum, silver, stainless steel (18/8, molybedenum & austenitic ferric), titanium, tantalum, and zirconium nylon 66 fibre & plastics, PCTFE, PTFE, polypropylene, and furane resin hard rubber, neophrene, nitrile rubber, chlorosulphinated polyethylene, and silicone rubbers concrete, glass, graphite, porcelain and stoneware, and vitreous enamel are corrosion resistant to alcohols, beer & water up to 100C. lead, mild steel (BSS 15), cast iron, and tin acrylic sheet (eg perspex), acrylonitrile butadiene styrene resins, rigid unplasticised PVC, plasticised PVC, polyethylene (low & high density), polystyrene, melamine resins, epoxy resin, phenol formaldehyde resins, polyester resins butyl rubber & halo-butyl rubber, ethylene propylene rubber, soft natural rubber, and polyethylene rubber wood So I'm drinking my beer out of glasses...........

And their predictions are becoming truer and truer with each 100kw. Reminds me of a saying - There's old motorcyclists and there's bold motorcyclists, but there are no old bold motorcyclists!!!

Full boost at 18psi, but I start at 50% injector cycle and/or 10psi and its on 100% injection at 80/18 [from memory, but I can check tonight]. 22 is way too high for effective use as a starting point IMO, you want the cooling effects to begin way before [for knock] that then as your revs rise the extra power also comes on. But I'm not racing, only open road.

Yeah, we could call it the IED400 Club!!!!

Thats actually pretty impressive for any 25..........be even more impressive if its a daily driver and lasts. Still...they all said that 300 was too much for std motors but look at the number of owners doing that and the sky didn't fall. So 400 is the new 300!!!

Something to do with the intended use perhaps? You can do insane things and swim against the current but eventually the roots of a motor can't be ignored IMO.

Just Jap had genuine water pumps for Rb25's as well, I just got one plus a timing belt kit all up around $400 [sorry can't remember the exact prices]. I had an Rb30 one on with a proper gasket and some sort of gasket goop [i didn't fit it and was away from home when it had to be replaced so was done by a shop].....lasted around 35K before it started leaking out the top. Had a noise in the front as well, sounded like a water pump to me, but won't know till I start it up, the water pump i took out didn't have any shaft play and spun Ok so I think I'll be still looking but who knows these things!!!! I opted for the one with the 6mm bolt [10mm head] and the slotted hole. See how long this one lasts.

Turn off your a/c and see if it still happens? Could be that, fan clutch, alternator or water pump. But you can almost eliminate a/c if you turn off your a/c and it still happens.

Money deposited for the Jun oil pump on friday arvo..........thanks Chris. Hopefully will get it later next week???

Jun oil pump, interested. Pm'ed

For a '98 Gtst, anyone?

Want the mat that clips onto the underside of the bonnet over the motor. Mine is falling to pieces.

No it's still structurally sound, but has surface rust. Motor is untouched [except for Tomei cams] with 90k on it. Not looking to rebuild until i need to. Plus I have an RB30 and a spare reco'd RB25 head converted for internal oil to the vct so will probably rebuild it/set it up for +400rwkw and see how I go.

yeah its the one above the thermostat, its cast with the standard inlet manifold. I'd like to replace the steel part, does anyone have a 'fix' for this? And is the steel fitting hard to get out? I tried spinning it with multigrips but it didn't move. I'd say that if I used the oxy set and warmed the alloy around it I may have a better chance but not much use if I can't replace it with something better. Note that I don't have the manifold out, was looking to see if its doable without removal........but probably asking too much.

^^^^^thanks for that.

Thanks GTSBoy, thats what I was sort of looking for [fair bit of dross, but also some useful info]. reckon I'll stick to water and green additive