tridentt150v

I did a search and found a few references to 'I will be using it' or 'I am using it in my Toyota Lexus/LS1/something other than a Skyline'. I would like to use it mainly for its non corrosive properties, but the thought of some extra help on a +40'C summer day also sounds good. I beleive it would be fine for the motor itself, but the feed to the turbo and the heat in the turbo etc are a different animal. What I want to know is - Is anyone using it on a Skyline? And if so what sort of turbo? The guy who sells Liquid Intelligence 115a says that it won't work bbbbuuuuttttt he has another variant called Liquid Intelligence 115b that he says is fine. Now he is obviously enthusiastic and trying to convert the world - as well as sell product - so his word isn't everything. http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/ So before I jump in at the deep end I thought I'd see if anyone else had talk the leap of faith before me?? I have a Gtst with a Garrett GT3076 btw - if thats at all helpful.

I use smurf's blood!!!

Duh....I just thought of the tutorials and there is a v.good one there. One day I'll actually 'get my sh1t together................. Now another question, how does the steel pipe/spigot mounted in the alloy housing above the water pump come out? and can I replace it? Its the one that the radiator hose pushes over for the motor. Is it just a press fit? And are they an item you can purchase? And no reply on my waterless coolant question, anyone using it?

Sorry wrong post

How much movement is in the motor when you start it or rev it? Can you almost balance coins on it or is it shaking? A suspect engine mount or even a gearbox mount moving the motor around when you are driving could also be a cause.........not the first option, but one worth checking.

So just to clarify........the bolts you are talking about are behind the front pulley and balancer? I already took out the ones holding the cover up each side and the one underneath. If I have to get the front pulley off to get it out thats fine, will tackle that as another job. Just trying to replace the water pump. Get the lower cover off and I'm home and hosed. Also having a hell of a time trying to get the coolant drain for the block out, its as tight as, not enough room to do it and the bloody head of the bolt is too small 14mm [plus ist been butchered before a bit]. Might have to tear the split dump off - and that seems excessive for one bung. Looked at taking the water line off the turbo but it is also too hard and a bit higher in the block. Reckon I'll get a bit of hex bar turned up and replace the bolt/bung with a longer 'bolt head' this way at least I'd get a good swing at it next time.. BTW is anyone running with waterless coolant, thinking of trying out. Not so much for the better cooling but I like the non corrosive idea.

Can you remove the lower timing belt cover without removing the front pulley?? I've taken out the bolts x 4 with the rubber grommets but can't seem to be able to remove the cover. Its loose and wants to come but moves about 5mm then goes no further. The manual isn't much help, it just says to remove it.

1998 Nissan Skyline R33 Gts2.5t 40th Anniversary Edition. Mechanical Nismo Selective 1.5 L.S.D. diff Nismo G Max II clutch Bilstein shocks with King springs Whiteline adjustable swaybars front and rear Whiteline adjustable nolethene bushes for camber/castor/toe at all four wheels HKS triple layer dry pod filter Z32 Mass Air Flow Meter Sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator 555 Nismo injectors Splitfire coils Blitz 700x600x70 fmic (anodised blue) HKS IV electronic vacuum controller (boost controller) Blitz turbo timer Trust alloy oil cooler with stainless steel braided lines Apexi alloy radiator Cusco high pressure radiator cap D1 oil catch can Master cylinder brake brace stop bracket Project mU front discs [brakes] Braided stainless steel brake hoses [full kit] 90mm exhaust with HKS Hiper 120mm s/s muffler Cusco front tower strut bar Snow Performance Stage 3 Boost Cooler water/meth injection kit Garrett GT3076 WG turbo with 100mm port shrouded comp cover HKS 40mm external wastegate [18psi spring rate] HKS cast low mount manifold extrude honed and flowed Tomei adjustable exhaust cam pulley Tomei Poncams 256 degrees/8.5mm lift Apexi Power Full Computer with Hand Controller Making 302, so just snuck in, chart is in Dyno thread. Apologies for the crappy format, I cut and pasted from a word file and CBF fixing it.

Coolant will not be contaminated if the seals in the turbo are gone. But you will use/burn coolant and a little bit goes a long way. So what you see could be from a very small amount.

Whatever you get ................make sure it doesn't have a fat tongue!!!!! Vote 1 for niZm0_Man, lmao at the title [and don't worry We've all done it].

Looks good in pics............but they are just the start.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419955-looks-like-garrett-slipped-another-gtx30-variant-in/page-19?hl=%2B3071#entry7448162 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344089-garrett-medium-frame-gtx-turbos/page-58?hl=%2B3071#entry6324329 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-32?hl=%2B3071#entry5247046 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43864-new-garrett-3071r-experiences/page-4?hl=3071#entry1653759 And this is just 4 threads of 23 pages of threads, the 3071 has been around for quite a few years and in many variants. If you did some reading you would see this and be able to make your own informed comparative decision. Its not up to people on here to do your research, but you could ask for help finding specifics if you got stuck. But I would think about how you actually did that, your present approach is somewhat lacking.................

Lazy as............I just typed in 3071 and got 23 pages of threads!!!!!

If you tried coils of all different types etc like you have..............and it didn't permanently fix the problem then why would you keep thinking its coils??? my guess si you are disturbing the problem when you did this and thats what fixed it temporarily. Try other things, get your injectors checked!! Also next time it misfired pull coils or leads off one at a time and see if it makes a difference - difference = coil OK, no difference then that cylinder is the one to look at If no difference irrespective of cylinder then the problem is not an injector/coil/spark plug.. Clean your MAF. Check your fuel pressure for regulator agnd/or pump. Change ECU's do a swap. Check your coil loom/wiring, check all the connections, pull on your wires and see if they are still solid and fixed/cripped to the connectors etc Get a compression test both a warm and a cold one and check the results [should be stuff on the www telling you how to use the info] Start trying to isolate the problem, if you can get it down by process of elimination you will win. My RB33 idles and runs smooth as, plus doesn't miss a beat really and I have 300rwkw and a WMI system etc etc etc the RB motor is not the problem [unless you have a motor issue].

Costa Concordia

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------TRUE AS---------

Al

[vid] [vid]

[vidhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jt1V5xhqMgM[vid]

Looks like my Tomei, but I think that Nismo's also stick their name on the same pump - a 275l/m unit. If its not exessively noisy then it should be OK for up to 300 rwkw. I just changed mine = it got noisy.

Thye changed the cams in '98, but they are not Neo's

Yours too!!! Arrhh the life of a well tuned Skhouyloooiiin AshR33 the big performance improvements come with turbo and ECU upgrades, not just power but usable power!!!

OK thanks