tridentt150v

Did you rest your timing and a small thing but 15 degrees at 650rpm for a gts25t??? That is not the orange line - each line is 10 degrees. Mind you, I don't think thats the problem but just to be sure.

Terry that setup has to be for a second battery and fridge, its way overkill for just the battery alone. You'd need a very good regulator for that one as well cos on a hot day it would be thumping some amps. I'd also check that it doesn't discharge overnight, a lot of the bigger solar panels don't include the blocking doide so what you make during the day gets lost at night or in dark sheds/carparks etc. Just check your voltage after a sunny day and then again in the morning, if its dropped away heaps it means one of two things your battery is cactus or the solar panel setup is discharging. To check that disconnect your battery after a sunny day and again check the voltage if its down heaps its the battery, if its not then its the solar panel set up. A blocking diode costs around $5 at a guess and is an easy fit for just about anyone but needs to be orientated correctly. And by dropping away overnight, I'm talking from 13 volts down to say 8 volts. Discharge is pretty severe when it happens - thats for your size panel.If the panel is smaller and discharging the rate may be a bit smaller say down to 9-10 volts.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Solar-Panel-12V-10W-with-Alligator-Clips-Battery-Charger-GENUINE-SUNTECH-CELLS-/181254244444?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2a3398485c http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PR1210L-12-VOLT-10AMP-AGM-GEL-SOLAR-PANEL-REGULATOR-DEEP-CYCLE-BATTERIES-BATTERY-/321231818550?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4acae88f36 Then wire and either alligator clips or a plug for your battery end. As an aside I use this same setup on my minidumper and excavator as well. They can be parked out in the paddock for days at a time and in the cold weather that is death to batteries - but with this setup, I turn the key and they go, always charged and ready. Let me know how you go. If you need any help or more info let me know in msg's and I should answer quicker - cos I get an email notification.

do a fuel pressure test

The real answer is be patient and keep starting stopping the motor and checking. And crack the bleed valve each time.

lol........I actually said a bit more than that!!!

I probably should add that I have an Odyssey battery in mine. But the solar changer set up should work with any sort of battery..........but pls don't forget your solar panel regulator otherwise you will cook the battery cos on a warm summers day they can run as 20 volts and the reg. keeps this to 12-14 volts.

No, I didn't go ahead with it..........price was $126USD but freight/postage was $800USD. I asked them to double check the postage but never ever got any reply or help. They are a peculiar company to deal with in some respects...I had trouble communicating.

Does it go ok when you are driving at say 80-100kph? Check all your hoses to the intercooler etc, also check your hose clamps.

Use beer..........cools me down!!!

Yeah, just as long as I tow my carport around......could be a challenge though, carport has tile roof and brick columns

I use a 10w solar panel and PR1210L regulator [cost approx $80-100). I made up a small plug at the back up under the number plate and run a wire to the battery. I don't disconnect my battery or do anything like that. The solar panel is mounted on the carport roof and the wires for it come down the column and exit just about adjacent the the rear of the car. So simply drive in and plug in. Its a '98 and the battery is in the boot but you could make it work for any position. Not quite on topic, but sort of relevant.

I asked then realised it was dumb so edited it out. I probably didn't explain myself...its all good.

Dumb question...... I've set the timing at 15' at 650 rpm ar per manual.

No, waste of time. You don't need two maps for that reason [running out and as a fail safe are different reasons]........... If you get low on WMI all you have to do is run at a lower boost and any good boost controller has that already. As said your WMI doesn't commence until you reach your trigger levels. So unless you are running at 8psi or 50%IDC all the time then you won't use WMI. You only use it when you go above these thresholds, and if you do run out [and your level switch/warning lights tell you that you have] all you have to do is drive conservatively until you top the WM tank up again. Even then you can get away with straight water until you can get to a methanol supply. Its a bit like your turbo, it does nothing at 100kp/h [or whenever it spins up], and until you push it you are just driving an in line 6 cylinder car. I did 2000 km to the GC and back and only used 1.5 litres cos I wasn't going over 8psi/50%IDC all the time highway driving. A race track could be different for an endurance or longer race. But shorter races you won't see it either - and then you wouldn't be using a lower tune anyway.

Cootamundra??? Do you mean Temora??? and your talking hp in the thread but quoting kw in your sig, just wondering is all. 550 rwhp isn't anything too unusual - would have thought that you would get more with no real effort, thus my question re kw vs hp - but the torque would be phenonemal.

Yeah, 40% is probably a bit low IMO. But if you aren't running with the boost option as well then it could be OK - I honestly don't know. I have the snow performance stage III unit and run with 60% and all in at 85% and also vacuum 9psi and all in at 14. Your pump is an advantage in a perfect world, but you won't see it on the road because you start low [boost and IDC] and end high plus you are already boosting and driving and revving before your system cuts in. If it was such an advantage wouldn't you think that other companies would offer it as an option??? I did look at the various kits when I was buying and compared but for street use didn't see any clear advanatge so settled for kit completeness and cost. I nearly did buy an Aquamist but it lost out somewhere I guess [can't remember, price I think?]. Had mine for 4-5 years now and when you can't get E85 or do interstate trips WMI is the way to go. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306109-my-wmi-install/ I like the comparison BTW thanks for doing that.

What triggers did you use? ie commence at 10psi and all in by 20psi and/or commence at 50% DC and all in by 75% And what switch - vacuum, injector cycle or both?

Nice very nice

HTFU.....just get the grinder out and remove the sponge/foam.aka old fighter plane seats.

CAS???

Smart car = icar

You'll use the splitfires anyway............a step up from OEM and good for extra boost - when you get that bigger turbo and start huffing!!! And I'm sort of surprised nobody mentioned taping them just to check it wasn't an arc issue???

yeah, not talking about the earth for the pump - although would also pay to check - talking about the battery earth connection. Also check that the long ECU gang plug is tight and actually pushed all the way in. I had mine work loose, was bolted on and everything but stopped working, pressed it back on harder and bingo!!! These sort of issues can have you pulling your hair out I know, GL..