tridentt150v

I made mine, also welded up a new top bracket/band. I use an Oddessy or Full River battery though. But Repco or autobarn etc will have options.

Thanks and will to. How is it connected? Slip in like the pump? Top seems attached, but base not, I reckon I can get 50mm of side ways movement out of it drivers to passenger side. Also need to drive it around first, got a full tank atm.

Happens

'98 R33 Gtst I was feeling around inside the fuel tank - like you usually do when you have 10 minutes to kill - and on the drivers side there is a long what feels like plastic oval tube canted at around 30 degrees and going from top to bottom. Now I think this is the fuel level sensor [but not sure, just assuming] and is all OK, but it is loose and can move around a bit, could even move enough to clunk the side of the tank??? Is this normal or has it broken away from the tank. Fuel gauge works fine btw.

Mine was a new 275 with new FPR! Started out Ok then over a few months started as a very quite and gentle 'choo' type sneeze then slowly got louder. Pump eventually went very noisy so I replaced it and problem solved.

My fuel pump would 'sneeze' more than cough, but thats what it ended up being. Not saying yours is but keep it in mind.

what condition is your boot trim divider in? the panel that separates the boot from the battery location, has the honey comb pattern on the back. If its in very good to excellent condition I'm interested.

Interested in the boot trim, esp. the large flat divider that goes between the battery and the boot well. The one with the honeycomb pattern plastic on the back. But will take other trim as well. What condition is it in? I'll also PM you about it.

Don't wait, it s a good system. I am wrapped in mine - going to keep using it in my RB30 when i get it happening as well. I've got my trigger setings at 6/10 and 50/70 and seems to work about right. I could lower the settings, but will check them out in summer first.

Good to hear........I was looking at their kits and what you get for $2K is pretty good value esp. for a streeter.

120 vs 210 at 4000rpm is pretty good though, and heaps more torque [300 vs 500], be a good thing on the road.

Would have thought a 1.06 would be the go for a 3 litre? 25's have the 63 or 82, so stands to reason that a it would be an 82 or 106 for a 3......but just sayin'. I'll go 106, I've got the 82 on my 25 and I think a 106 would be good on a 3. Limited for outright power, but still responsive and good for +350 with the right help. But guess I'll find out.

I think you should have circled it, hard to tell what your talking about!

Thinking of my gts25t r33 - thing is I have a Blitz LM IC and am happy with it. But they have inlet and exit on the same [passenger] side. So I was thinking of retaining it and the same piping etc and using the std inlet. Plus, I have WMI [no E85 here] and was wanting to keep it and the std plenum is better for this as well [forward facing ones feed the cylinders differently for WMI, and probably not as good for it]. Thinking around the 350-400rwkw level, start out with a bit less to start with because I'd also keep my 3076 but get a 1.06 in place of the .82. So I'm thinking [cheap but neat] pretty much keep everything for now and just extend my exhaust/dump by 20-30mm if needed. And before anyone asks, already got a tough clutch and diff etc, Gearbox is std, but I'll do it if and when it needs it. Its a streeter/tourer - so not looking for dyno queen numbers. And the bonnet problem, I'll look at that as I get to it, a bit of cut and shunt maybe, but I'll see. Thing is, I think I'll up for a rebiuld anyway and I already have an RB30 and a spare RB25 head. Just got to start buying a few other bits and peices. Might get pistons this week [might have to sell a bike? to help fiinance it, but I'll see].

Can you use a std inlet plenum/manifold on an RB25/30? If so what is the defining limits for height and power? Who is using one and are you happy with it? I did try a search, but you've no idea how many times a inlet/plenum/manifold comes up in threads. Just about did my head in openning threads that had nothing to do with what I was looking for!!

good point, fixed!

Fuel economy, I get 500 to a tank no problem. Never run out , probably get even more if I pushed it. One thing I will ask though: How's your oil consumption with 300?, mine has increased to a litre every 2000km now!!! When I was on 250rwkw it was prettty much zero. Edit: Forgot to say, I have a catchcan and its pretty much empty after +10,000km. Nil leaks either so its burning, but you can't smell it or see it. And oil is Castrol Edge Sport 10w-60 fully synthetic.

I don't get on here much any more, work is a bitch - and never ever buy property and then build!!!! You'll have no life if you do, I can gaurantee that. Mods: s2r33, 3076, Hks external gate, poncams, 550's, HKS cast manifold, PFC, FMIC, SP III, and all that other stuff Fuel: anything 95 or better + WMI Power: 301rwkw @ 17psi Useage: parked in driveway for last 5 months, hasn't moved Lifespan: means nothing, I've only put 5,000km on it in the last 12 months and I did that in two trips [Coffs and Mt Gambier]. Failure: Don't get to drive it enough, too damn busy Dyno and other stuff, see it here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/306109-my-wmi-install/page__st__20

WMI is a BC E85 or agrestic Oz [where E85 is unavailable] solution. If you have good access to E85 and never travel outside the metro area/s then use it - its cheaper and easier to set up than WMI. For all us erudites unable to take advantage of E85, WMI is the answer.

I got mine from repco - purchased a 20 litre drum. I could have got it cheaper elsewhere but then I was stuck with finding a courier/carrier that would transport it - being flammable, most don't want to know about it. And your car won't rust away if you set your thresholds at say 30% IDC and 5psi. Think about it, you won't be boosting coming up your street or entering your driveway, so any WMI should have burnt off/evaporated well and truly before you turn the car off. However if your driving it like a getaway car then all bets are off. And I've never heard of WMI going jelly, I've had some mixed up in a plastic bottle [i carry it for trips as a reserve and really haven't had to use it] for around 12 months and I can't see any difference. I'll keep it seperate now and see, but if it hasn't done it by now then it probably won't happen. The only thing I can think of [and you'd need a chemical degree/Mythbusters to prove it] is if there is some evaporation of the Methanol out of the water and through the plastic container - talking atoms here. And I'd say that the effects would have to be so small as to be negligible. Even if it does happen, you'd still be using WI, which would have a semi similar effect [previously discussed in this thread and others], so overall I'm not concerned for my car or set up.

If you use the anti drain solenoid - and all boot mounts should use them, think hill parking and your motor full of WM - then the pressure is retained. The motor in my kit is always on but only pumps when there is a pressure drop, just like a fuel pump. The solenoid for this is at the motor. I do agree though that the solenoid for the injector control could be better located for the SP kits. I've got a SIII and can control WMI using injector duty cycle and boost pickup. The push in fittings are crap, they are OK if you never use them more than 2-3 times, but after that they will not grip and/or leak. I replaced most with straight bolt up fittings. The hose is just plastic 1/4" air type hose and could be a better grade, but it works for now and is cheap to replace. It would be good to compare the various kits and their performance edge, but I have to say that mine is still fine and I've had it for 18-24 months now. The aquamist website forum is better, europeans seem to get on there and talk about all sorts of stuff. The SP forum is less helpful, Americans usually only want to talk about their pickup trucks, but it is still OK. One thing, SP never had any direction to their website forum for any help etc, you had to find it yourself. I would have thought that they would promote it much better. And my tank is still working fine - Mafia you must be the wrecking ball......lol

Alloy and methanol don't mix...........pretty sure I read that somewhere!!! You might be better off with SS?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/306109-my-wmi-install/page__hl__wmi

Your wastegate actuator has a line to it, it has to. You generally put the controller in series with this line.

If you are driving a 34 [in your sig] then you should see your check engine light flashing when it knocks, sounds like a lazy plug to me.