tridentt150v

Interesting idea, but how does this differ from SAU's strict policy on negative comments on businesses and workshops? How can we say XXX is junk if we can't also say XXX service is way to expensive or shoddy etc etc A true review KB needs more than just rainbows and butterflys. We'd also need to limit the scope. eg tyres, batteries, oils do we do these things or let the general media do this for us - after all there is plenty of open access stuff around for that type of product. But I'd be interested,

OK, I found a good source of the type of foam rubber I was after - its sandwiched between every tool set you buy. I had a blisterpack tool set from work that had a loose foam sheet between top and bottom tool sets. I used it to cut out my air vent seals [i never ever made it to Clark Rubber]. Only tip I will give is make your inner hole at least 3mm smaller all round so that it is a tight fit in the groove. It needs to stretch to fit otherwise it is too loose and will not sit right.

The exhaust is not the limiting factor in a standard motor. ie you will need to do more mods to take advantage of any increase in exhaust size. And so it begins, welcome to the mod world.......

Or an ECU!

Your not flooding the head are you? This would lower the sump level and could cause issues with surge? More oil may not help if its all being pumped up. Just a thought?

I've got foam tape, I tried it, but its not really right. After a a couple of trys I pulled it off. You really need 2mm foam sheet and then cut them out yourself. I might try Clark rubber or something???

It has pretty much the same conductive properties as steel so heat transfer would be similar. It has a much higher melting point so theoretically should last longer as an exhaust - in a hostile environment. It is probably a bit more stable when heated, it has a lower expansion coefficient. read this: http://www.tungstenchina.com/product/Titanium-Properties.html

At the back of the dash air vents there is a flap that lets you control the air coming into the cabin. This is worked by the wheel knob at the side of the vent. This flap has a groove that runs around it and this locates the sponge foam seal. I had my dash out and it was so totally perished and disintigrated that I really couldn't salvage it even for a sample - it just leterally fell apart in my hands. What I want to know is is it still available? Can I order it from a Nissan dealer or something? Has anyone replaced it?

Jeez, I'm not driving my truck to you.............it'll drop a cylinder for sure!!!!...........lol I can't understand some ppl, the easiest thing to is service a vehicle, and half the time new ones are free for 3 or so years. Ummm $50-150 service x 5-10 times vs a new motor, its simple maths really.

Is anyone on here a plastic welder? What welder do you use - hot air or contact? What brand or breed? I'm looking at getting into it for myself - I'm not interested in going commercial. Its just that when I bust shit its always on a weekend and you can't fix it till next week. And then you take it to a welder and have to wait for it to be done as well. So you mightn't get the part back till next week or something. So I thought hey I can oxy and arc weld so surely I can use that same steady hand for plastic welding? What else do I need, primers and cleaners etc? I've looked at youtube and its sort of helpful, but I can't just pop down to my local to pick up stuff.........I'd have to order it, I'm in country NSW so its not like a Macca's or Woolies.

One thing others have missed it preparation. You don't just stick two bits of metal together - you need to prep them first. Get rid of all galvanising, chrome, paint and rust etc, try grinding a bevel in each piece so you have around 70% of the metal with a 'V' in it and leave say 30% so it butts up. You want penetration, welds just don't lay on top, they should melt the parent metal aka 'sink in'. When welding don't allow your slag to cool down during a weld. If it does you should stop and chip it off, wire brush it and then take up where you left off. You can't weld over or near slag. When your good at it, you can control heat build up by using the rod and stop/starting your weld - but it is better if you can do this with amps. I've done it, but it was using a mates welder and he only had 8mm rods and I was only welding 3mm angle iron, so you have to play with it, otherwise you end up melting it and the metal all falling on the floor. Don't do downwelds or upwelds until your really good at it. Try to only weld similar metals. Don't weld anything thinner than 2mm and probably 4mm until your good at it. If you end up with any slag or splatter, use chipper and wire brush or angle grinder and get rid of it before you keep welding. If you have a slag inclusion in your weld you will have to grind that out and redo it before you continue. Some cheaper chinese rods - when your welding - you can see the slag falling into the weld as you go, you need a steady hand to push this around and control it. If your rods have been sitting around for a while they will have absorbed some moisture and will be harder to arc. Use a bit of scrap metal and burn the tip off by welding a 10-20mm run. Then transfer the rod and earth lead to your job and it will work fine. Your blue rods could be satincraft - they are GP rod and good for a variety of jobs. Youtube is good for all this stuff, like others have said.

FMIC? And you won't really need WMI if you have E85.....if you don't have E85 then WMI is the next best thing. Also if you intend using yours for long interstate type trips then WMI is probably a better option.

except to stop the knock!

source a HKS cast low mount = one of the best mani going and they don't split or break and are true low mounts [not side mounts]

No No No what you really need is a nozzle on the exhaust, this way you will get a huge forward thrust from the exhaust gases being blasted out like a jetstream. Then you would need a dual exhaust system to balance the power otherwise you would end up spinning out of control!!!

In theory you would have to have the 'pump' very close to the turbo/dump area. As the exhaust gases rush out they rapidly cool so by the time you get past the cat and to the back part of the exhaust system [unless you have very restrictive mufflers] their is a heaps of 'extra' room and even some negative pressure. Your dump is 90mm, your exhaust is 90mm and the air is cooling and contracting = the largest pressure is at the turbo exit. But tbh, I think any mechanical advantage would be beaten by the turbulence created by the pump.

He also says bhp which to me says crank. 500bhp is like 300-350awkw, using the old SK formula a 42 is probably the best size.

I installed them for mid range and fuel efficiencies. Not sure if they made any difference because I also bolted in a 3076 and HKS cast mani at the same time. I've still got my std cams and have toyed with the idea of swapping them in and out for back to backs - but to be honest ICBF. I'm still going to use the cams, they are already in, and I just don't care enough to do it [plus you can snap a stick if you don't watch it].

It would still do it in neutral if it was a/c or ps. Its boost related. BTW nutrole is an acting part for chipmunks!!!

what rods?

Actually buying some of those exotics posted isn't all that pricey.........the crippler is having to buy a flatbed truck and then pay someone to drive it and follow you around every time you go out for a drive!!!

^^^agree sounds like sucking pipe or cleaner in

You need to look at their feedback and their standing etc. If they have been paid up a member of SAU or some similar club for a few years and people know them and can vouch for them. Even then it is still not without risk. If you are still unsure, ask them to list them on ebay with a buy it now option and use paypal. If ever unsure, walk away. You could also try buying from a business, but even thats no gaurantee. Otherwise you have to drive across this big brown land and do it face to face.

You need to take it to a skyline mechanic, not just any mechanic but a skyline one, someone that knows their imports. Probably stalling due to the BOV, if you change back to a std one that will go away. Its probably doing R+R and that is why it surged at takeoff, if it is overboosting on a std ECU then you will see R+R. The bad fuel economy is a bad tune. You will need to find out what ECU you have and then tune to its potential. You will get better fuel economy and performance out of a nistune or PFC, but can make the std ECU do better. If it has a jap aftermarket chip in it then it will likely not be able to be tuned to Oz conditions and you will have to replace it or the ECU. Oil in the intercooler pipe - wash/wipe it out if you can and then do your own test. Do this after you have done a service/oil change etc and filled them up properly [not over fill]. See what happens following that. It could be that that oil has been in the pipe for ages from a previous turbo seal or overfill etc. You need to see if it is still happening and then how bad before you jump to conclusions. Oil leak I don't know about - could be as Godzilla34 said from overfilling - degrease and wash it down then take it for a short drive and see if you can find the leak? try to pinpoint it, do this after your service. BTW looks good after a wash

^^^I've already got insurance!!!