tridentt150v

try disconnecting your battery, applying the brake with ignition on to drain all energy and then reconnecting. Should reset everything, if that doesn't work you'll have to go to an autoelectrician

Chipmunks Greatest Hits - on high rotation, so say double speed. if you don't understand or appreciate it then your obviously not on the right drugs!!!!

yeah more of a low growl noise, but it can sound like a deep knock/rumble, and it comes and goes with heat and engine cycle

water pump can do this as well, you need to trace the sound to a section of the engine

Just Doesn't Matter

so who put the 'hea' in CP?

Also think about your fuel system - pump, filter and regulator. Get a fuel pressure test done, 10 minute job.

Low boost is handy for wet greasy days - otherwise run high boost all the time. Running high boost doesn't mean a thing unless you are boosting. That is, if you are cruising at say 80km/h in 5th then you are not boosting at all so it will make no difference what your boost setting is. Shift bck to third and floor the accelerator and you will be boosting hard, you would generally want all your boost so leave it set at high. On wet greasy days have a low boost setting of say 10psi so that your boost comes on much gentler and doesn't peak hard, you will not spin the wheels as easily and you can drive with more control - whats the use of having high boost and watching all that power go to waste anyway. BTW your fuel economy will not change much at all unless you are boosting all the time. When you are cruising as above, you are really driving an in line 2.5 litre six and will achieve a fuel economy that reflects this. Of cuase if you boost you will increase fuel consumption proportionally.

Sorry if I misunderstood, but........ If you are under load then your rpm won't go up but your IDC will increase. ie going up a hill so rpm and IDC will only be comparable on a flat surface with the least amount of friction. This could also be true - and logic says it is - for wet vs dry, gravel vs tar vs concrete and heavy atmosphere vs a bright sunny day, but to what extent I don't know. So I say that rpm and IDC can at times and under certain conditions be correlated, but the relationship would not be consistent nor for all situations.

GCG are the agents, I got a couple of senders off them for my gauges [when i had them] and they are at least 10 years old and analogue.

Ok, lets start a list, I'll go first.......... 1. fuel pump dead?

post in the RB30 section ^^^^^up there

Hiflow all the way, talk to Stao aka Hypergear

555-740's for 300rwkw tomei/nismo pump will do it. Or you could go a bosch, simple install, but its not as plug and play.

I've had no experience with it, but I reckon its the switch for the seat belt light on the dash that is making the noise. You should have electric wires and a plug under the seat and this feeds into the buckle and has a switch in it that turns the dash light on and off.

I have tomei poncams [inlet + ex] and a tomei cam gear on the exhaust cam, but I have the std cam gear wit VCT on the inlet side and it fit no problems.....

Lots of private roads in Oz, RTA hardly have anything to do these days......... And OP, see what I mean about opinions being everywhere, some say you can and others say you cannot do blah blah, driver car conditions nerve situation all give different results Bring on the STIG

yeah, I was actually thinking of the 305/317's when I was typing...point taken.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bl...l&hl=blowby

comparable to an XR6 or a V6 commonwhore etc........in std trim. when modded up and pumping out +220rwkw then its comparable to a 2000ish V8 from just about anyone [possibly excepting ferrari Lambo style] at +250 it is comparable to a 2010 V8 from Falcon or Holden. It is not really combarable to a GTR, evo or STi etc because they are 4wd, but they do cross paths now and then and it is all a question of driver skill/outright power/and application [drags/circuit/drift etc] as to which one is best. Your really asking too much - and if you hang around here or search you will find plenty of skyline vs the rest type of threads with countless arguments about who is best and why. Who really cares, only each individual owner, because on an open road sitting on 100km/h they are all the same........

Yep, not sure if they will adapt to 4wd, but I'm pretty sure it has been done for the rb30. But I've got a funny idea that the 3.2/3.4 crank throw will not allow the 4wd front housing.............did I read it or am I dreamin' - can somebody correct me???

OS Giken 3.0 litre kit for around the $20K mark. But there are bigger kits than this..........Spool was looking at a 3.2 and a 3.4 kit.

The government makes new and tougher rules to protect fools, but then they go and make a better fool>>>>and that ladies and gentlemen is why we have stupid laws>>>>they are made to protect the fool from himself.

depends on whether you have a afm or not. I presently have an afm so have to go from 80mm to 4"=100mm. If I end up with ahaltech/vipec/link etc then I could get rid of the afm and go 4" all the way.

I don't know why, but I have to say this............... Can you tell if your sisters a mole????