tridentt150v

I've always wondered, if your car is SEVed and gets compliance with all the gear already on it, you have the full report, and then is continually registered..........where does that leave you????? BTW if you are pulled over again and you have re installed all the 'bad bits' afterwards and they find out, you'll end up somebodies bitch in gaol, they'll throw the book at you - or thats my understanding of it.

And its a shame really because nobody is going to get rich selling RB parts, they haven't been made for over 5-6 years now and are eventually a dead end. And what are we talking about, a small customer base spread over a wide demographic area, I mean how many RB34 kits will be sold overall? The market is not a force to be reckoned with exactly. The only thing that keeps RIPS and Spool going is enthusiasm [some profit for effort, but not a good return based on other products]. They could make heaps more selling bling on ebay. And before anyone responds - I'm not talking about BOV's and FMIC's here, one product only.

I'd be a bit careful with turbo choice in tassie. It is not a flat state, and it also has more wet days than other area's. I think you would be happier with a turbo that doesn't come on too hard down low. I had a hiflow that made 250rwkw, but came on hard too low down and too often. In the wet and with a brass clutch, I had real trouble controlling it. Even simple things like taking off from a slightly uphill set of lights was wheel spin every time, no choice and no option. I went for another setup when I got booked for it, it was cheaper to do this than get fined all the time. Now my power is much smoother/progressive and much much more controllable. I have a GT3076 WG with the HKS cast manifold like you mentioned, and very happy with the set up.

You also have a fast idle for your A/C, maybe it is the culprit?

No, RTA have nothing to do with it. Instrument places feel easier if the mileage has to be wound on rather than reduced, but if you show them your original speedo along with the new one, they will wind it back to your's no problems.

He doesn't need to modify the oil lines, he is replacing a BB with a BB, they still need to be restricted. If he removed any restrictions he would blow the turbo seal big time. Different if he was changing over to a PB turbo.

is your thermo fan electric, or a normal fanbelt one? if it is electric [ie thermo fan] then trace the hot wire back to the relay [it should have one] and check by disconnecting the hot wire from the battery or other + source to the relay. If your thermo fan switches off then your relay is buggered, if it doesn't then you have a different problem. the relays are usually attached to the firewall somewhere.

No, 2-3 hrs max, disconnect the battery first, try to save your old gasket but a new one is handy. Unbolt the old one and install the new one. But get it checked out first, I've only given you one reason and it could be wrong. I wouldn't be spending $2-300 on forum advice alone.

Same here, I changed turbo's at the same time as installing poncams, so cannot make a comparison either.

your relay is buggered

If your leads, positive lead is big enough and properly crimped /making good contact plus earth strap is in a good location, it won't make any difference where it is. Try cleaning your terminals and lead fittings.

buy the same size in silicon hose and join it with that, don't tow it, accept the challenge and beat it. Just Jap and Otomoto are always advertising silicon hose and in all the colours of the rainbow!

new reco $200 to 250 maybe, but I'm guessing. I know ford ones are $290 for a new one

starter motor bushes are stuffed and arcing, this will draw all your current away from the spark plugs etc and make it hard to start. Go see an auto sparky

Do a search, I remember reading a thread on here? that showed no difference in the top end, but a good mid range improvement of around 10-30kw depending on supporting mods. This is pretty much exactly where you need it IMO. Plus if your engine is breathing better it has to be more efficient.

0.040"=1.016mm

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ms-t317902.html I think its the same answer

Tomei poncams are a drop in replacement and have optimal timing standard. That is, you set them up with 0 degrees advance. You can try a degree or so, but I doubt you will see any improvement over zero - in fact you will more likely see a decrease in power and efficiency.

you need to take it to another mechanic that does skylines and get an assessment made. If they cleaned the motor [degreased and washed, you could have water in your colis/sparkplug area that could dry up and then the car will fix itself, but this doesn't explain your overboosting issues. The other thing to check is for leaks esp where your boost gauge 'T's' into your vacuum lines, if it is disconnected then this could explain the overboosting/erratic idle. All simple easy as stuff really. I doubt it is a blown head gasket.

do both pumps prime when you turn the ignition on [no need to start it]? one may not be priming up?

Also be careful with your fittings. Sometimes the bolt that is used to attach the feed side banjo to the block has a restrictor in it, you can see this easily when you undo it and visually inspect it.

^^^^ agreed, improvement would be minute, if you overheating I'd invest in: 1. a flush out of the radiator and coolant system or, 2. a new bigger better brighter radiator.

Let me get this right [i am having a conceptual challenge moment sorry], so you want to increase the flow of air to the intercooler in this area? you'd have to cut the front bar away to wouldn't you? Or are you talking about bypassing the intercooler and going direct to the radiator?

get someone to check your battery voltage while you try to start the car, if it is +12 volts and dips below 10 volts its pretty much stuffed.

this is on the DIY section, I posted one over a year ago.