tridentt150v

Interesting........the 3076 obviously is not on the best combination of motor/mods otherwise is would continue to go up the chart rather than dip and turn over. The 3037 is a really good progressive turbo, but has less midrange than I thought it should have, but as you say they are all 'snapshots' of one! Ohh to be able to have the time to take a sample of say 20 for each turbo and then plot the average. Never mind in a braod sense it is all relative.

Valet service???? Go and see the bastard and ask him why he didn't clean and polish it.........slacker!!! But on the whole, I love a happy ending.

But if a wet test doesn't make any difference then you have head gasket, valve or valve guide problems. I'd do this before ordering any rings, just to be sure.

0.7 is about 10.1 psi, so not much boost. What is your maximum boost set at?

Anything that works, I've got vac hose, nothing special. Cheap as chips stuff, and then if it stuffs up you throw away and replace, thats what I've got and had for the last 20,000km. With the fittings you can get 90 degree ones and route the pipe away from any heat.

thats a pretty wide horsepower target....is it right? Otherwise looks like a good thing, size is right in the ball park.

Can't upload attachments and send to others - mine was a 26kb word document.

I have a perspex one, but to get to the air filter you have to take it off. What I'm looking for is one that hinges or has a clip on ot screw on lid that you can take off from the top. Also need a blank because my piping isn't standard etc I'd also prefer it if it bolted down rather than sit over so am asking for a bit I know. I've looked at threads on different searches back to 2005 plus the Group Buy and gave up. I know UAS has one, but it is the same design as the one I have now but in CF, it is not really a top access unit. So I'm asking on the faint chance that somebody makes such an animal for a '98 RB25 Gtst. If not then I'll [because I don't have access to anyone using CF] get one made up in alloy and get it powdercoated black.

It also needs fuel, spark alone will not fire a cylinder. Also you say it doesn't happen every time, that is because the spark happens each time, but the firing order means that the cylinder with the fuel only lines up randomly with the spark every now and then.

Probably best to take it to a nissan mechanic, one of the Skyline ones preferably, but others on SAU may be able to help if you want to wait?

Try disconnecting the battery, turn the ignition on and use your brake or headlights, then reconnect the battery and see what happens?? Sounds like you should have an error code, but a battery reset will likely work OK.

I've done the reset with a pfc and it worked OK - but I may have better luck with a stock ecu???

try doing it but try having it pressed in before you start or some other method. I had to change my sequence a bit because it didn't work for me either, but by changing it to suit my var it worked fine

It also has a leaking injector issue

yahoo!!! Its good to find a problem, peace of mind and happy car..........

That explains it, he has a rooftop tinny and not a proper solid well built speedboat!!! So how do you strap an evinrude to the dyno??? Apologies for the OT.

do I detect a theme here or am I paranoid?

do I detect a theme here or am I paranoid?

looks to me like something is breaking down at the 130kw mark, you are making smooth power till there and then it looses it. But I think I've found the problem, your dynoing a car not a boat [reference to 'Automotive and Marine']

wood chisel also works, are you in gaol? cos you must have a lot of idle time, making your own gaskets is a frustrating pastime.

True, but they are also running low boost........the higher the boost the greater the air density, the more need for a functioning BOV.

search, been covered a 1000 times, you have to press your door light switch while turning your ignition on in sequence.

Grounding it on the head is fine, if your not so sure or are having trouble with it, use one of your jumper leads [assuming you have one]. I put one end on an earth point and the other holds the spark plug. That way you can hold the plug up in a better position and don't have to touch it on the motor at all.

USA - do you have spark erosion guys over there? They seem to be able to get the impossible studs out..............not sure about ezi outs though, they are tough metal? Otherwise a Dremel with some tungsten bits and be prepared to break a few, it won't be easy thats for sure.

HKS seemed to hit a peak with the evc iii/iv. I have one of them and have had no problems setting it up and getting it working, and it does self learn OK as well. I have to admit though that they are not the simplest bit of gear to play with - overly complex for what you want to do. ie increase boost to X. When is someone going to make one that you can upload settings to, so just plug the notebook in and set everything up? BTW Overboost sounds a bit like the old scramble function, it gives you more boost than your highest setting for a defined time. For example you have a high boost setting of 10psi and you can set up overboost to go to 15psi for 30 seconds or some such. Its a pain in the butt to use though because your boosting hard and then have to reach over and hit the button for overboost while your doing warp speed - yeah right!!!