eightsixboy

$100 including post for tie rods. $90 including post for Hicas lock bar.

Way cool, good price to. I would expect a really clean example to go for no more then around 8-10 so I think 16k is far beyond reasonable, just hope no one gets sucked into buying it, its the same with ae86's now, retards selling stock aussie povo specs ones for like 7k, who would pay that, I bought mine for 3k with a roady about 5 years ago and it was pretty damn clean, just because a car is super clean doesnt make it collectable.

+1 Subaru has lost there way a little bit I reckon, I love the new STI's but I'm not surprised you found the wrx a little boring, I remember when standard wrx's were awesome, once they bugeye versio came out they seemed to go down hill, like most car companies now there all cheaply made to some extent, lowest bidder wins, this is exactly why a 20k VW will always be crap, your either buying an oldish out of warranty one or a new povo one, why bother. Mazda to me are like Toyota, still building pretty damn good cars, never really heard anything bad about any Mazda, even from people who used to work on them, I'd prefer an old 12a powered 2 stroke rx7 over a vw or audi anyday.

No in Vic sorry. Can post items.

Willing to accept offers around the $500 mark for the seat and rail.

Bump. Gauges are sold so obviously not been sold with the car now.

Is it even worth that much? Haha my mates old ra23 did the same, only went to 99k and wound back to 0.

If if concerns you dont buy it, dont buy an evo full stop if its a know issue. I'm pretty sure any car older then 10 years will have rust to some degree, some worse then others.

Came accros this today not sure if he is a member on here? http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=0&R=10975633&keywords=&trecs=1&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__sid=12E8D9C64830&__Nne=15&__Qpb=1&seot=1&__N=1216%201247%201252%201282%204294963593%204294966615&silo=1011 Looks friggin mint, but so is the price tag

gauges sold Willing to accept reasonable offers on the seat and rail.

Bump

Oh ok, I should have checked the offset calculator Even still you'll have less outer clearence, there will be more then 1/2 inch of rim sticking out compared to a 9 +22 if you went a 9.5, the 9 +12 sounds like a winner, 10mm is easy to fit with a bit more camber and a guard roll.

Selling my car without the seat so no need for it anymore, I only just bought it not long ago so is basically new, the rail is brand new, was sourced through import monster. Seat is still in the car for now so if someone wants to see how it feels they can. Gauges sold pending payment.

Yea thats what I meant, couldn't 100% remember if the numbers were red aswell.

Blue backlight, the numbers and needle light up red.

I can prob seperate the water temp but not the pressure, I actually have a mate who wants them except the water temp. Have you got the control unit? They wont work without it.

Bump. Some more pics.

Problem is unless you take a photo of anything wrong straight after buying the car they will just say 'oh that happened after', i'm not talking about really bad stuff like cracked screen or bald tyres, but things like oil leaks or whatever they can be cleaned of for the roady and then start leaking after a few days, no way you can prove otherwise.

Yup fair enough, I just dont want this guy to end up buying a golf out of warranty and end up having 'issues', has happened many times before.

But there is a big difference between a 40k BMW and 20k VW. Of course any car that is looked after will be reliable, but jap stuff will last longer and be alot cheaper to fix. I have driven alot of cars including a Gallardo, R8's, R36's RS4's Golfs etc and there boring compared to a GTR or even my GTST, thats my opinion but everyone at work that drove the Gallardo said it was a piss of crap, an expensive one at that. Problem is most people dont have 5k plus to replace there gearbox when it does need replacing (which it will) or 1k do do a service on them, yes they might drive well but there way overpriced to fix and service, and when they do break it can cost a crap load. I knew a guy who worked at Saab and he hated them, having the cambelt facing the firewall... wtf are they thinking. I guess when you work on these cars you develop a hatred for them I guess, but its just funny how knowone at my work actually drives euros, the only ones that do dont have to buy them, kinda says it all.

Lol, are people really that ignorant? I have not and never will own a VW, I worked on vw's for over 5 years and I have seen it all, it makes me laugh that the general public still think there good. The awards dont go into reliability or repair costs, if it did they would be behind most other makes.

Why? Cause I speak the truth? Take a 10 year old Jap car and compare it with a 10 year old euro, see which is better. The jap car will still drive like new, trims intact etc the euro will have trims falling of, engine light on dash, rooted box if its a auto, trust me i work on euro trash everyday and its complete rubbish. The only good euro's are porches or high end stuff, the low end euro stuff is awful. Point been, most owners who love them only own them for the warranty period, so its a new car, but just wait till something goes wrong outside warranty period and you had better lube up.

Best way to check ur clutch is to drive up a hill at around 60 in 4th or 5th and plant your foot, or take of from a stand still in 3rd or 4th with a little clutch dump, sounds a little harsh but it works, dont dump it at like 7k just at around 3k, you'll no straight away if your clutch is rooted. It could be singling, my hr31 did that, when planting it in second i could single in a straight line with little smoke.

I'm not to sure how you'll go fitting 9.5's on the front, my 9 +22's only just have inner clearence, and they almost rub lipped guards with about 2.5 neg camber. Depends on tyre size ofcourse, but you wouldnt want any smaller then a 245 on a 9.5, I have 245's on the 9's but a 235 would be a better fit for the front. Try the hard race upper arms, they are really good quality and pretty cheap, but yea there is limited adjustablitly, you cant get more then about 2.5 neg, if you already have 33 lca's I wouldnt run upper arms aswell, unless you want like 5 neg or something crazy like that. If you can get a 9 for the front I'd go that, alot easier to fit.

I would define exploding gearboxes and 90% plastic as a s**tbox Why anyone buys Euro has got me stumped, they look and drive good for a few years then they just fall apart.