Crackfox

In terms of whats fastest it would be best to change after peak power, when the power output drops to equal what the power output will be in next gear at the lower rpm I think

Yeah we sortof share cars, not in the rain though anymore lol She likes driving my car because its faster and more fun to drive than hers, and I lke driving her car because it can go over speedbumps and uses half as much fuel

Sounds like I need new tires lol I basically granny it everywhere in the wet, anything over about 3000rpm loses traction in 2nd, and I lose traction in 3rd well before 4000rpm in a pretty much stock r33 Scariest moment was when my sister was driving it down a hill in heavy rain, took a good 100 metres to stop from 60kmph because she was braking too hard and spent most of the time sliding down the hill. We came to a stop about 4 metres before the roundabout

Wow the screen was still working as he was smashing it against the blender as it was all cracked and bent. Only stopped when he bent it in half lol

I believe AIDS doesnt survive very long outside the body so contracting it is unlikely. Realistically you are much more likely to contract hepatitus, which can survive outside the body for days and is very very common among junkies, so I'm still cautious about needles in public places, especially in places junkies might hang around. About 5 years ago I nearly got pricked by a used needle that had been stuck up into the paper towel dispenser in a public toilet.

I got let off for speeding the other day during double demerits, pulled over by a radar for doing 8kms over at 2am down a fairly empty road. Had a short friendly chat and explained that I thought it was a 70 zone(which I did) and why I was driving at that time, he told my I was going "slower than most" and was contemplating letting me off with a warning, then he suddenly did and ushered me off quickly. It may or may not have had something to with his mate who was operating the radar yelling out "112!" before signalling in the next car

I can confirm the fuel light doesnt come on when the key is turned to acc/on or w/e, only when you actually have low fuel. My fuel light begins to flash, more accurately pulse slowly as the fuel guage drops to around 0.5-1mm below empty. I could take a picture of it tomorrow if you want because I'm a poor karnt and have been driving around with the fuel light on for 50kms.

I dont have a 34 gtr but I had the same problem in my 33 which would go flat if it wasnt driven every 2nd day atleast. The bootlight was the problem in mine, and someone else above mentioned bootlights so they may be a common fault in skylines

2 years ago my best friend perished on our roads. The paramedics and emergency services on the scene said it was one of the most horrific pod filter accidents they had ever witnessed, I still think of that accident every day. I can still remember him screaming. The people who were there said my friend died instantly when the pod filter initially exploded. They said it was me that was screaming.

My mums car was recently written off with hail damage in WA and she has been looking for a new one. She wants to get a newish sporty hatch/small wagon as her next car and something that has a bit of power, she always complained her old camry was gutless and she has owned toyotas for the past 25 years. We went car shopping and she really likes the Caldina's, its pretty much exactly what she wants in a car but we dont know much about them being a japanese only car. Shes interested in a 2002 3rd gen one with 70,000kms does anyone know if there are any major problems with them or have any experience with them? Would insurance cost much for a 40yr old lady with no crash history or claims except for the recent hail claim in a 4cyl turbo import? Her main concern and the only thing stopping her from buying it is parts/servicing. What kind of support from Toyota australia would she get if any or would it not really be viable to own for someone who doesnt have much mechanical knowledge?

I'd say the mk 4 supra, r34 gtr, fd rx7 and VL turbo would be the most modern cars exterior styling wise from their time. If the R34 GTR was only released now in 2010 (with updated interior/technology ofcourse) it would fit right in, its styling still looks more modern and classier than a VE commodore and lots of other cars IMO

While I don't agree with the laws and my view of Hamilton has if anything gone up there can't be double standards. Unless they introduce a burnout license available to everyone, which allows all holders to perform burnouts if they deem it safe to do so they have to punish everyone the same

Even though it won't affect me I hope they don't and that if they do introduce it they do it more sensibly than the other states have. Instead of just saying "no v8's, because back in my day only v8's had any power, and these new fangled turbos they sound dangerous as well so ban them" a kw/tonne rule should only be used. They should also take into account other features such as drivetrain, ABS, traction control, airbags, cars safety rating etc.. A current model Golf GTI will probably beat a VL commodore in 0-100 times but it's safer, FWD's are alot easier to drive and less likely to get into sticky situations, add the fact it probably can't rip a good burnout plus the cost/damage it takes on your car would put alot of would be hoons off from even trying.

How do I do this? And does the ECU slowly relearn over time because the next fill up got me somewhere between 13.5-14L per 100kms so maybe the problem is fixing its self.

absolute legend

I just realised my skylines floor is soaking wet from when I had to drive across a river, I guess it could be worse though considering alot of other cars didnt even make it across and got stuck and probably flooded. Do I just air it out or what can I do to make sure the water doesnt go moldy and stink out my car

Look on the brightside, you may notice an improvement in your cars aerodynamics and fuel economy. http://www.autoblog.com/2009/10/22/mythbus...e-dimpling-mpg/

Hmm I guess its worth a shot to apply for the exemption, it would be similar to P platers who brought restricted cars before the laws came in I guess If that doesnt work maybe I will just keep my WA license and car and just drive over to vic and do nothing about it:p I wont change my address to a vic one (instead I can just change my address to my cousins house in WA or something) so technically I could class as living in WA. I would be worried about getting defected though if I attempt this, what would the procedure be for getting and clearing a defect on a WA registered car? And if the same officer spots me 5 times in 8 months or something they will know or suspect I'm not living in WA and could do something about it

I did this mod a few weeks ago and can definately feel a difference, especially in 1st gear and 2nd. Full boost is now at 3000rpm maybe lower My fuel economy has been horrible though - 16L/100km on this tank as opposed to the steady 10-11L/100km I have been getting for the 6 months before this. I dont drive any differently than I used to either, could this be related to my fuel economy? Instead of cutting the black wire I exposed it and ran a wire from ground to the point where the black wire is exposed. I might reverse the mod to see if it has anything to do with my fuel economy if I dont figure out the problem soon.

My car is all good but we got hit pretty bad being right on the coast. Thank god I had it under cover We have some smashed rooftiles, smashed skylight, 3 smashed windows, doors broken from the wind slamming them, broken rollershutters, broken garage door, and my mums car is probably a writeoff with heavy panel damage everywhere, paint chips and softball sized holes the the front and rear windscreens and my dog got f**king pwned by it and is now scared of going outside. The hail was literally as big as tennis balls it was insane EDIT: My sister just got home and her car has like 200 dents, but no smashed windows, after I rang her and warned hey to get undercover and she didn't listen It would be an 8 grand writeoff.. if she had insurance that is

Well the way the article strait from vicroad reads I will definately be on P1's or P2's, anyone who isnt over 21 becomes a p plater. And my license has to be transferred within 3 months so I'll have a quarter of a year left with my beloved gtst once I move before I have to buy a depressing car. I may as well use up my other 7 demerit points in this time as well cos I'll have no use for them once I only get a measly 5 on P plates. Then again, that wont be much fun because a speeding fine of 3kmph over the limit is probably 7 demerit points in vic

Well I sortof found the answer on the vicroads site, it says: Eligibility to qualify for a full Victorian licence You must have held an interstate or NZ licence for at least three years from your 18th birthday to obtain a full Victorian licence. Any period where you have been disqualified from driving either in Victoria, interstate or in NZ, is excluded when calculating the period of time you have held a licence. If you have held a driver licence for three years or more, but have no evidence of this, you will need to make a declaration stating such on your application form. If you have held your licence for less than 3 years the appropriate P1 or P2 probationary licence will be issued depending on your age and the period of time the licence has been held. ------- Atleast 3 years since you turn 18 holding a license so I'll be a p plater again, FML.

I might have to eventually but I'd rather try get answers somewhere else first. Mobile phone+interstate call+30minutes waiting if its anything like the WA one=lots of credit gone

OK so I might be moving to victoria in ~3 months, I am currently living in WA, where P plate laws aren't so insanely strict, and I'm 18 years old and just got my full license. Will I be able to keep my turbo car or buy another v8 and/or turbo? Will I keep my full license or have to go on p plates? Ringing up the WA licensing centre was useless and I spent ages waiting, and no one seems to be able to provide me with an answer

Well looks like it never did reach $2.50L.. yet. I wonder when it will ever reach the point of becoming unviable for us to use petrol. I dont think the oil companies will ever want it to reach this point because then we will invest to much into alternate fuels research, invent or discover a fuel source that will be cheap and work as well as petrol then they will get next to nothing for the oil. I mean at (or before) $1.50L biodiesel and ethanol start to become viable. At $3L it would have probably crossed the point where its economically viable to farm mass amounts of algae in alice springs to convert to biodiesel. The more expensive petrol becomes the less we will depend on it. Maybe in 20 years petrol mainstream use will be history, it will only be used by historic combustion engine car enthusiasts on the track, because demand is so low it will cost $0.35 per litre so we will all have massive 450ci v8's that drip raw gasoline from the tailpipe