Hanaldo

Yeh gonna go pull it all apart now. The spark plugs are pretty much new though, have done maybe 6000kms with them. I pulled them out about 2 months ago when I did my comp test and they were perfect. Yeh I just went to Battery World, they let me try a huge 720cca battery... Changed nothing. So it's not the battery

I'm not sure if my problem is mixtures though. When we (room42 and myself) checked it last week, everything was normal. Changing things didnt affect anything. The only thing that made a difference was when my battery went flat from cranking, we hooked it up to his battery and then it started a lot better. So seeing as this all started when I relocated my battery to my boot, it's plausible that my battery simply isn't up to the task. Having said that, when I got somebody to jumpstart me today, it still didn't want to start.

Thanks mate, gave those a go but still not starting. Will have to wait a few hours for it to cool down I guess.

You know what's really f**king awesome? Getting stuck at a petrol station 100kms away from home because your f**king car won't start. I love this shit, it's becoming a favorite past time of mine.

If you don't have an aftermarket ECU in the first place, there really is no need to 'upgrade' to a Z32. The AFM itself is not an upgrade unless you have maxed your stock one. You won't max the stock one on a factory ECU.

Hey Eric, Just on the topic of Power Enterprise injectors, how is your idle now? Do you know what latency your 700's are? I've got the 650cc PE's, and they have a latency of 1.8 at 11.5v and 1.58 at 14v. Assuming the 700's would be quite similar, so just wondering if you have the same lean idle as me?

I think he was talking to Stao lol...

Yeh, have tried to get it looked at but of course the car behaved when it was there. I don't exactly live close to my tuner, and he is always extremely busy so If I can work out how to fix it myself then it would be the easiest option. If I can't work it out then I'll have to take it back to him, but I might as well give it a go. My wideband kit should be arriving in the mail any day now, so I'll get that installed as well. I could use my mates timing light as well, but that's probably getting too difficult. If it's not something I can correct in the tune then I'll get it looked at professionally. Thanks for your help mate.

Right, I got my key-code from Matt today, so I can start using the NIStune software. I'm slowly reading through all the documentation to learn how to use the software properly, but this problem has become a huge headache and I was hoping to sort it out asap. I've synced my image on the ECU with my laptop, so I've spent a good hour or so looking around trying to familiarize myself, but am still a bit lost. Could anyone tell me where I can find the things I should be checking on NIStune? And what their values should be? I tried comparing my image with the base R34 image, but there's a number of base images that came with NIStune so I'm not sure which one to use. For example, GTRNUR said to check the cranking ignition values. In NIStune, I'm guessing this would be the Cranking Timing Advance BTDC? I had a look at that and it is set to 10 degrees (timing) up until 90 degrees (temp), then at 100 degrees it drops down to 8 and 110 is 6, etc. Is that correct? As for the enrichment tables, which of those should I be looking at?

My mate has a Gates on his 500rwhp RB25. It's fine, not noisy at all. Hasn't been on there long enough to comment on snapping, but I imagine any snappin incidents would be more related to poor installation than poor product.

Antilag? Lol I haven't watched the video yet (will when I get home), but it sounds like something has gone wrong with the gauge. I take it if it was installed when you bought the car it is no longer under warranty?? *EDIT* Another idea, check to make sure all the hoses going to the gauge sensor and any t-pieces you used are still good. If any hoses are crimped or a t-piece has melted and disformed then it could be creating an anomoly in the pressure that the gauge is reading, ie the pressure in a crimped hose will be higher than that in a free flowing hose - measure of restriction and all that.

... Benji?

Tell her to forget it. If she wants power, sell the GT. She says she only wants a GTR, and yet she wants to keep the GT and the high comp NA motor? I went down the path of converting my GT to a GTT a bit over a year ago. I went with the most efficient option of importing a donor car from Japan and swapping everything over, so it was all just straight swapping. All up it probably cost me around 10k, I don't even want to add it up to know for sure. I had my reasons for doing the conversion, and to be honest if I went back I would probably do it all again. But I still recommend anyone who asks me to sell their car and buy a factory turbo model. It's nothing but headaches to convert. What I did was far simpler than what you are proposing. If you are as serious as you say, I suggest you go and do some research mate (read this thread first http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/33407-how-to-turbo-your-na/ ), you will quickly discover how big a job you are looking at. And then you have an unreliable twin turbo NA motor strapped to a crappy auto transmission with rubbish handling and terrible brakes. It's a terrible idea.

Or ignore my advice, that's cool too

Yeh well, I was ready to pay it until someone showed me how to do it myself.

Wrong section for starters... Secondly, install em yourself. One of the easiest modifications you can do to a Skyline. I was quoted $400 for installation by my local suspension specialist, would have been a massive waste of money. 2 nuts at the top of the strut tower and one big nut at the bottom of the shock. Use a jack to support the unsprung load and let it down gently. Swap in the new coilovers and reverse the process. Away you go. Takes maybe an hour and a half if you don't know what you're doing. I can do it in less than half an hour these days

Riveting stuff

Upload it to photobucket and then link it here.

Awesome video just by the way I would also say exhaust leak somewhere.

Dude. It's metal on metal, without sufficient lubrication it doesn't matter what RPM your engine is spinning at. MAYBE if you were using unregulated diesel fuel or bio-diesel instead of the reformulated stuff sold in Australia, the sulfur would provide better lubricity. But I highly doubt anyone is going to use expensive B100 to flush out their engine, so you are essentially using something with almost the same viscosity and anti-wear properties as water.

Yeh I used 00 (or -1 if you prefer) gauge wire, it should be plenty thick for that distance and amperage.

Yeh you keep saying that but we're not skinning cats. What is significantly different? They both turn the motor. Cranking uses the power of the starter motor to do so and then once it's running the engine can use it's own power. Essentially the only difference is the RPM.

Wait what? Cranking the engine and starting the engine will do the same thing, they both turn the engine. How is the motor is turning off the starter motor instead of it's own power going to end any better if it doesn't have enough lubrication??

Thread needs to be moved to the NA section.