Hanaldo

Yeh not sure how you would do it with a PFC. With NIStune it's as simple as getting a data acquisition cable which interfaces with NIStune and allows you to monitor 8 external channels.

Not expensive or hard to set up an intake air temp sensor either. There's a thread about it on the NIStune website.

Yes, but I'm not just looking at the peak power. Compare the torque between the two. This turbo makes 530nm at 4500rpm, compared to the SS2 which only made 493 at 5300rpm. Then there is the area beneath the curve. This turbo is making slightly (not very much admittedly, but it's still there) more power at each rpm increment than the SS2. The SS2 only caught up just before redline. So they may make similar peak power, but this turbo looks like it would be better on the street. I am also concerned about the heat, as my motor is stock. It does get tracked occasionally, so I really need to be able to keep temperatures down. Also not sure what is going on with the boost plot of the SS2, it really only makes it's peak boost at 5500rpm, so it's obviously getting a lot of boost creep. Not reading too much into that, it's just something that I noticed.

That looks like it could be my new turbo You have a PM Stao.

That looks badass

Is this what it does?? I don't think it's the bov, my money is on the cold idle control valve. Not the same as the AAC valve just by the way, but it's near it. The cold idle control valve is much like a thermostat, it's a piece of thin coiled wire that expands when it gets hot to block the vacuum line. It's very easy to break, and if it get's stuck open then the vacuum line will be constantly open and act like a vacuum leak when the car is hot. The valve is on a vacuum line coming off the AAC, so try blocking these lines to see if it changes anything. Also try running the car with the AFM unplugged. Try things to change it's symptoms so you can narrow it down.

Can also upgrade to a GTR item if need be, cheap and the best option available.

Is this problem only when hot? Or does it do it while it is cold as well?

Also another thing, you won't get away with the "it's stock officer" line. The bonnet is a structural part of the car, modifying it as you have done modifies the structural integrity of the whole car. Meaning it is definitely sticker worthy. Just a heads up.

Nah not that I remember, we were always out on the track at different times. I just recognized your car and you were the only person I could think of with that colour green. Goes hard man, sounds good too

Yeh does look good mate, well done with the mods One thing to note with vented bonnets, there is a lot of science to it. What can happen with cheap bonnets or ones that aren't properly engineered is they create a low pressure zone across the top of the engine bay, which means the air will be sucked up over the intercooler and radiator instead of through it, causing cooling issues.

Yep all the awards were done on Saturday so there was nothing to go for on Sunday. I decided I had done enough damage to my tyres so called it quits Saturday night. Simon, I'm assuming that was you in the green 32?? I did think it was you but then thought you had sold the 32? Not sure why lol.

+1^ Sounds like thermostat is stuck open.

Yehhh I know the one, I thought I recognized it from somewhere. Flames everywhere

Ahhh, you got every single one of my mates cars but not one of mine Lol, there's some good photo's in there mate! Didn't see the Countach get out on the track, spent too much time in marshaling lines

They definitely called it an LC Torana on the last two Powercruise DVD's hey. They were also calling Commodore's Torana's as well though, so I'll just put it down to the commentators being idiots. Anyone else get really farkin annoyed at them? My god they are douchebagels, talk so much crap.

Is that the going rate for a gorilla these days? $1000 is quite affordable, I could really use a gorilla around the house

Did anyone get many pics? I'm looking for pics of my car in particular, but I didn't actually take any pictures this year so if people took a lot of pictures then post em up (looking at you bubba )

Have done this myself. It depends on what you're wrapping or making as to what twill and things you need, as some are better suited to straights where-as some are better suited to going around curves. The k-rating refers to the number of filaments in the cloth, so 3k will have 3000 filaments, 6k will have 6000 filaments etc. The lower the number the smaller the weave will be and the lighter and more expensive the cloth will be. You will most likely want 2x2 twill 3k cloth, that is the most common choice for cosmetic applications. 6k will be ok as well. Get 3k if you can. This is what they look like: Compared to plain: Can't find any good pictures of 12k weave, but you don't want it trust me. The weaves are huge. 3k looks the best. As for price, keep in mind that carbon fibre is expensive to make and is therefore expensive to buy. Expect to pay around $80 a meter. If the price seems too good to be true then it probably is. Just search for carbon fibre fabric/cloth on google and there's quite a few stores that come up that sell good stuff. I bought mine locally in Perth for $75 a meter + GST. For the resin, make sure you get a good epoxy resin. If you're doing engine parts, the resin needs to be able to handle the heat. Do NOT, whatever you do, get polyester resin. That's pretty much all there is to it. I will say from my own experiences... It's not easy. In fact it's really damn hard. Start with something small and simple. Be really really careful with the carbon fabric because it's so fragile and easy to damage before you put the resin on it. Once you apply the resin it's as strong as anything, but you can really mess up the pattern and finish if you're not careful. If you're making your own fully carbon parts instead of simply skinning existing parts, you will need to get some peel-ply to absorb the excess resin otherwise the final product will be really heavy and not very good. You will also need to vacuum bag it while it dries so that it bonds properly. Good luck eh

Wow, you really whored yourself about huh? Haha I got three runs in the drags, all of them against full on drag cars with massive stalls and tyres wider than my car Lol. I was quite amazed at some of the cars I beat though, I thought I was still going to get hammered. Proud moment beating my mates Typhoon and my other mates circuit-built R32 after they had both been giving me shit about how much faster their car is than mine Great times

Yeh the AEM one fitted into the same spot as well. Pretty sure the wideband kits all use the same sensor, may be mistaken though. The AEM is very easy to install and use, and can connect to a aftermarket ECUs or log through a laptop.

It's probably not very important to some, but for what it's worth I flogged my car for three days straight at Powercruise this weekend and it loved it. Not a single issue at all, and the performance of the G2 was great. Didn't get too hot, just kept going all weekend. Stao, I'll be watching this thread closely. Keen on an externally gated turbo capable of 300rwkw that doesn't lose too much response without having to change too much of the stock setup. Going to look into water/meth injection to keep things cool. The turbo you're working on at the moment sounds like it could be the perfect fit.

Ahhhh amazing time Was good to meet you Richard, your car is hawt Thought I was gonna have to line-up against you in the drags, then I got pushed in front to race that fkn orange Sandman full-on drag ute, sweet Jesus. He just did a Powerskid the whole way and still chopped me, ridiculous haha Oz, your car sounds amazing man

Full of jokes, these guys I shall be there. Not sure what time though... Mates car is getting tuned tomorrow, so I hope it is done in time otherwise we're gonna be setting up tents in the dark

Black R34 GTR on Ocean Reef Rd heading towards Joondalup. Black R35 GTR near ECU in Joondalup. Red R35 GTR turning off Ocean Reef Rd. All between 11:30am and 12ish. R35's are the new R33