Hanaldo

I can see how the overfueling would be caused by having no bov if you are still running the standard ecu. However that would only cause an issue at low throttle/idle/decel, as that is when the ecu would be expecting the bov to be leaking air. If you have an issue throughout the whole fuel map (ie. accelerating), I think that will be because of the aftermarket plenum and turbo. The stock ecu runs rich as all hell when you start messing with the intake. I bet if you restored the factory bov setup, you would still have overfueling issues. Either way, both those issues can be solved by a tune. I think your next step should be to get a tune-able ecu installed and get it on the dyno, your tuner will quickly be able to identify if the problem is just in your maps or if you have an underlying issue.

In any case the RPM is quite irrelevant to the earlier point; would everyone here agree that 90% of mach 1 is pretty stressful operating conditions?

The Rotax is out of the S10 VT, dad has an S10 VH-GTS which uses a Limbach L2400 motor. The only specs I can find on that motor are from a Stemme S10-V, but that's an L-2400 EB1.AD motor which is different to dad's. I can guarantee that at 3400rpm, there is no way dad's glider would get off the ground.

You're correct, altitude only comes into when trying to work out tip mach speed. I just googled the Stemme 10 specs, and the manual gives the same specs as I gave you. Maybe there is another gear set somewhere along the line which gives another reduction that isn't mentioned? I have no idea, I'm confused now I know for a fact the engine is revved to 5000rpm on take-off, that was drilled into me when I was learning to fly it. Cruising rpm is more around 2400.

I paid $160 delivered for my 5" body Venom cat (though after a quick search on eBay, I notice prices have gone up), am currently making 260rwkw with no restriction from the exhaust. Will soon be pushing 300rwkw+, will let you know how it goes then but I highly doubt it will be a problem. Considering I was quoted $100 to have a decat pipe made up (there was a stage when I thought my cat was a restriction where I considered going decat, but it turned out to not be the case), there isn't THAT much difference in price, and it's certainly not enough of a margin to tempt me to run a decat at all. Flames are pretty rad though

I just don't see the point of running a decat. The difference between a decat and a good quality high-flow cat is negligible, you wouldn't even notice it. You can get a good metal high-flow for so cheap these days, it's bordering on irresponsible to run a decat simply for the sake of $50 or $60. Why even debate whether you should use one or not?

Care to calculate the tip-speed of a 1.63 meter diameter prop, alt. of 10,000 feet; engine speed of 5000rpm, prop pitch of 137.6cm and a gear ratio of 1.18? Those are the specs of dad's Stemme. Dad gave me the formula to work it out, but I tried it and got lost lol.

Hah, realized where I went wrong. Just asked dad what the deal was and he told me his prop tacho in the glider is from another aircraft which used a different gear ratio, so this one's readings are well off He knows the equation to work out it's true speed, but really he just uses it to monitor the 'norm' for prop-slip. So my example is not as relevant as I thought, but I think the main point of the strength of nylon is still valid.

This is the most accurate post I have seen on these forums for a long time. Mafia, I know you don't like to believe stuff you read on the internet, but how about scholar articles, do they count? http://www2.dupont.com/Automotive/en_US/assets/downloads/nylon_under_hood.pdf I have seen Nylon used in stressful conditions first hand, my dad owns a Stemme 10 VH-GTS motorglider: The propeller on this glider is made of nylon composite, and reaches speeds during take-off of over 200,000rpm. During mid-air cruising use, the propeller generally operates at around 80,000rpm, and will happily spin at over 200,000rpm for hours. The only reason it doesn't is because the engine uses so much fuel to keep it spinning at those speeds, as well as the engines tendency to overheat due to being air-cooled. The longest recorded flight time is 14hrs, though that involved a lot of time as a pure-glider with the prop folded away. Dad and myself have personally flown to Broome in this glider, which was over 11 straight hours of the prop being operated at around 80,000rpm. There are also nylon components in the fuselage of the glider, as well as the motor (for obvious reasons, being lightweight is incredibly important for these things). The con-rods and valve-stems being the ones under most stressful conditions, but also the exhaust and intake manifolds and some other parts.

This is why it's important to get a cat with metal substrate.

Yeh we have the road-side tests here too, but they don't strap you onto a dyno. They just have emissions and noise testers that they use while your car is idling and they rev it to 5000rpm in neutral.

I'm probably not making enough power (currently 350rwhp) yet to be of any use to you, but for what it's worth I've got a 5" body 100cell Venom metal cat; the car only made 5rwhp more after dropping the whole exhaust from the front-pipe back.

Ahhh, was wondering what her Facebook status was about. Will def keep an eye out.

Yeh, I do everything I have the tools and know-how to do myself. Back when I did my engine swap, I knew bugger all about how to do an engine swap or anything like that. Now I've done two If I knew what I know now, I would easily have done it all myself.

With a ballistic price to match Compound setup with an electric turbocharger sounds like a hell of a lot of custom work, not to mention the initial purchase price. also, would not having a turbo strapped to the outlet of this turbo just be a restriction in the intake? Why compress the same air twice, when the point of the E-turbo is to have it work like a supercharge while even a smaller turbo would not be spooling yet? Agree with the second battery though, running them parallel will just mean it is running off both batteries, so it would still put huge load on the whole system. It would probably be better to stick with one battery and use a higher amp alternator. Or run two completely separate systems, two batteries, two alternators, etc. unsure what sort of load this would put on the engine though, not too mention weight gains and the high cost of having to implement such a system.

Correct about the cells, obviously the less cells there are, the bigger each cell will be so the more the cat will flow. With regards to the size, you want to go with the biggest body you can, whilst making sure that the inlets and outlets are the same size if not slightly bigger than the rest of the exhaust, ie. If your 3" front/cat-backs are 77-78mm, you don't want a cat that has 76mm inlet/outlets. But if your front/cat-backs are 76mm then a cat with 77-78mm inlet/outlets would be perfect. As Wolverine said, get a Venom cat. I'm using one and my car only made 5rwhp more when run without any exhaust, so it flows well and they aren't expensive http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-VENOM-High-Flow-Metal-Cat-WRX-XR6-Turbo-Skyline-VL-/250768882992?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a62fd7d30

Lol I believe Zebra was correcting you when you said he had a Skyline, he wasn't implying that your Patrol is irrelevant to other cars. I have to agree with Zebra for now. It's definitely an interesting idea and I like the time and effort that Stao is putting into it, but I don't see how it can be done in a bolt on package, it's just too much for the stock electrical set-up in a Skyline. That said, it may be possible to sort something out without sending the costs through the roof. Looking forward to more testing, always enjoyed these sorts of projects

+1 ^ I wouldn't pay more than $200 at MOST for standard suspension.

Neither of them are 'untrue' per se... I just wonder how well you have understood what you have been told.

This is something I'm still looking into, I believe you can on some ECU's but not all of them http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=857

Yeh they seriously couldn't care less hey. My mate had his engine built there, 30k engine build and then they filled the gearbox with water instead of oil, and used silicon to seal the sump. Needless to say it didn't last long and they didn't wanna hear about it when he complained. They also charged someone I know 8k (not including the motor) to install a bog-stock SR20 into an S13, then did the worst job I have ever seen. My mate and myself ripped it out and did it again, did a way better job than they did. They also charged the poor girl 1.5k to install a 'heavy-duty' clutch, but she found it was slipping so we pulled it off and sure enough it was a worn out stock replacement item, looked like it had been ridden hard for a long time. No way it was new, and it certainly wasn't heavy duty. They also did this: Looks pretty secure

Yeh man, in the general section. Thread called "guide to cheap DIY data logging". Think it's on the second page now.

Ok forgot to update, I actually managed to fix this issue before Powercruise last weekend. It turned out to be the earth cable from the block to the chassis, the cable was farked. The workshop that did my engine swap used the oldest, dodgiest piece of wire I have ever seen, it was so corroded and fraying apart I'm surprised my car ran at all. Had the worst crimp onto the eyelet, I didn't even pull it hard and it came out. Then they just wrapped it in tape and put some conduit around it, it looked like a brand new wire. Fkn Perth workshops, there just doesn't seem to be a good one around, why does nobody take pride in their work these days? Anyway, have replaced the cable with some nice brand new high amperage stuff, haven't had a problem since

Damn nanny-state WA with our silly old laws

Lol no I know man, that's what I was saying. With NIStune it's as simple as getting a DAQ cable and a sensor, would cost about $50 all up. No messing around with rewiring things to 'trick' the ecu.. Thinking of doing it myself actually, will get an EGT probe as well. Would like to have some way to monitor it without having the laptop in the car though, thats the only downside. Not arguing or anything here lol, just thought I would contribute to the discussion