Hanaldo

Yeh I plan on upgrading to 6-pots at some stage, half the reason I'm rebuilding them is for resale

After having mine on for about 3 months now, I'm now trying to think of a longer term solution. This stuff looks good when it's first applied, but mine is looking in pretty perilous condition now. Cracks everywhere, shows up dirt very easily, and just doesn't want to stay stuck on (though that's an issue with my front bar not having enough surface area). But having had the lip now and seeing how much better it makes my car look, I don't want to take it off Need to think of a way to attach it better I think...

Did a great job of them ^ Will be rebuilding my calipers one of these days, will probably respray them at the same time.

Of course, I wasn't saying it would be the turbo itself that is causing any problems. My comment was in relation to my previous tuners reluctance for me (or any of his customers for that matter) to use your turbos, he just doesn't believe they work, in fact he cringes when you tell him that's what turbo you're using. The reason behind that I don't know, but I've heard from a few people now who have gone to him with your turbos and either had issues or had him tell them to ditch it. So it wouldn't make sense for me to tell people to go to him if they want to use a Hypergear turbo.

Haha glad you got it sorted. Just looked at the pic and thought it looks fairly standard, one line on the positive will go to the starter motor and the other line will go to the fuse box, not sure where the problem is

I wouldn't rule out the tuner, it is all about the tune after all. In my case, I spent hundreds of dollars replacing parts and fixing non-existent issues, chasing a problem that turned out to be my tuner. And I still wouldn't bad mouth him, he is easily one of the top 3 tuners in WA and is supposed to be the bees knees with NIStune, but for whatever reason he just couldn't do my car properly. I still recommend him wholeheartedly to others; unless they are using a Hypergear turbo... That said, your problem doesn't appear to be the tuner, it certainly looks hardware related. I wouldn't go around saying the tuner is useless until you have found the problem and can safely say it was the tuners fault, because if it turns out that it was an underlying issue with your car and nothing to do with them then it's you who ends up with egg on your face. Looking at your mods, the two things that stand out at me are the intercooler and the injectors. However if your injectors were being maxed then the tuner could tell you that, and they shouldn't quite be maxed yet anyway. So I would be ruling out the intercooler first. Also, are you sure you got a genuine Z32 afm and not a fake?

You mean firesleeve? My dad got some for his plane from Hecs Fire in Hamilton Hill. Or you can buy online http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/hose_firesleeve.html

It does, but you have to heat it up in an oven or with a heatgun to soften the sealer, then pry it apart. Depends how game you are.

Just so you know, there should only be two bolts holding the caliper on. So you were most likely undoing the bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper together, which is why brake fluid went everywhere If that's the case, you may have let air into the system, which will require a bleed. But cross that bridge if and when you come to it, otherwise SonnyQ is spot on

Yeh mine was a pain in the ass to get off as well, I ended up using a screwdriver with some rags around the tip so it didn't dig in so much.

Or just drive it long enough to charge the battery? If the car hasn't been driven for awhile then the battery would have been drained by the immobilizer, just jump start it and take it for a good drive. If the battery just went flat overnight, you've either left something on in the car or the battery has conked it. If you're not sure how to do a load test on a battery, best to take it to your local battery shop so they can test and replace if necessary.

You have to tune it, with o2 feedback on it will always target 14.7 because that's all the narrow band sensors are good for. There is no danger running lean on low load as long as you keep the EGT's under control and the car isn't surging. But you have to make sure that your transient throttle enrichment is set up properly so that as soon as any throttle is applied the AFR's will jump back to an appropriate number. You will find a lot of people on here and other places will be running leaner AFR's than I am at cruise, I've seen as lean as 17:1.

You're pretty much on the right track. With o2 feedback on, the ECU will target an AFR of 14.7. But you can get much better fuel economy by ditching them and setting up the cruise AFR's yourself. Mine are set to about 15.5:1 right now, could go a little bit leaner but I haven't got an EGT reading so don't want to push my luck.

I did have the same issue, pretty much sorted it out with a heatgun and mallet. It's not easy though, it doesn't want to stay like that. Managed to mold it enough in the end, misses the tyres by about 2-3mm now.

Yeh, my mechanic makes 510rwkw with just a 4" exhaust, including wastegates plumbed in.

Haha well those sound like they are from a Pro-Gate or Power-Gate, so they wouldn't fit my application. The red one might fit the Comp-Gate, is it red and brown or red and black? In case you're interested, the yellow one would be a 14psi middle spring, and the red one would be either an 11psi middle spring or a 12psi outer spring. If the red one is smaller than the yellow one then it's probably from a gate like mine.

Woah, that is flexible. Do you know what caused the damage to the engine in the first place? And is it actually damage to the pistons, or just the rings? There's not much point replacing everything unless you know what went wrong.

Yeh I don't just approach people on the street and hand them the keys lol I have a close group of friends, would trust them with far more than my car. They could easily get their own, but it's just not something they want. They enjoy driving it but they see the headaches I have with it sometimes (like the hot start issue) and it just isn't for them. Or they have a different taste in cars, eg my mate has a '78 Escort that he is building. We all have our own tastes, mine just happens to be set up for track work Anyway, didn't mean to go so off topic

I don't have a problem with mates driving my car, after all it's just a car. I often take my car to the skidpan where I let my mates have a go, it's something I think everyone who has an appreciation of cars should experience. But perhaps not at 400rwhp when they are used to driving beaten up Honda Civics, etc.

Nah Nathan got the two springs, I've only got the one. I found one for $50 delivered though, so all good

Yeh I tried eBay but couldn't find any genuine parts in Australia. Kyle might be a good option, I'll give him a call.

Haha yehh, I know that personally I will most likely just use my right foot more often than not. However there are times when other people drive my car and they don't have much experience with high performance cars, so I would like to be able to turn the boost down for piece of mind Ok, glad I was on the right track, have been puzzling about this for a good hour now. Anyone know where I can get a genuine 7psi outer spring from? The Turbosmart website isn't very helpful, and a quick google search reveals mostly forums listing the part number as a reference. Tried looking on eBay and found some, but they want ~$30 for the spring and $40+ for delivery! Or there's the one's from 999Automotive, but I don't trust using cheap generic springs, I'd rather use a genuine part. Could probably get one from my tuner but I know they will put their mark-up on it.

Hey guys, Been trying to find out more about wastegate springs, thought instead of starting a new thread I would just dig this one up Anyway, I've recently purchased a Turbosmart Comp-Gate40 for my new setup, but I'm confused about the spring selection. The gate comes with a 7psi spring installed and ready to go, but I'm planning on running 14psi low boost and 20psi high boost (too large a gap for good boost control???). I know I should be aiming for as close to my target boost pressure as possible, so I thought I need to get a 14psi spring and then use my Greddy Profec to obtain the 20psi. However after reading up on the Turbosmart website, they recommend the 7psi spring if my desired boost pressure is 14psi? That doesn't seem right to me. I THINK what is confusing me is the different types of springs; they list inner, middle and outer springs. So I'm guessing that the wastegate comes with a 7psi middle spring, and what they are recommending me to do is to purchase a 7psi outer spring, and then run the 7psi middle spring with the 7psi outer spring to give me my target boost of 14psi, am I correct here or am I way off??

Also is it the factory AFM or a Z32 or other??

The 100cc difference in capacity is more like 60cc. It would make fark all difference, especially if you have VCT enabled and working properly. I think you will find that 300rpm is down to a restriction with the stock cat, will be interesting to see how it goes with a big high flow cat fitted. I know I picked up about 500rpm of response when I upgraded my cat and that was with the stock turbo.