Hanaldo

NIStune ecu.

About 4300rpm. No idea to most of those, only got the car back last night so haven't really spoken to my tuner about it. Definitely no pinging, and have not tried a decat pipe. He suspects my cat could be a restriction. Also another thing that he mentioned, my O2 sensor was causing the car to run like crap so he has left it unplugged. Any ideas why it would run like crap with the O2 sensor plugged in but run fine with it disconnected?

Just to clarify what my tuner meant by 'funny'; the power curve actually dipped when he wound more boost into it. Does this give any indication as to what the problem could be?

Thanks for feedback guys. Stao, the turbo is the .63 rear, using BP Ultimate. Intake is a custom 3" stainless steel pipe from the Z32 afm to the turbo. Exhaust is a 3" bellmouth Tomei dump/front pipe, 5" highflow cat and then custom 3" cat-back (made by Kermit, for those in the know). Absolutely no curves in the exhaust, so only restriction I can see in the exhaust could possibly be the cat. Coil packs are splitfires.

Well, just got my ATR43G2 installed and tuned, got the car back yesterday. Gotta say I'm a little disappointed... Only made 290rwhp @18psi, tuner said there are no issues with fuel delivery or anything else. He expects I could make a little over 300rwhp @20psi, but when he tried to wind in more boost the power curve just started going funny, so he left it at 18psi with a smoother power delivery. So I'm rather disappointed that after spending $3000 on the turbo/injectors/Z32 AFM, Plus $1300 getting it installed and tuned; I'm only making 30rwhp more than I was with the stock setup. Will probably cut my losses, save up and get a 3071R.

f**kin LOL. ITT: Herpa durp OP gets trolled by haturz. Almost as good as 22's on a 33. Almost.

Yeh 20psi atmospherical, so at the manifold will be 15-18psi. What I've been told anyway... My boost gauge reads 16psi with the boost controller switched off, so I guess that's correct. I know, everyone vouches for coppers but I went for Iridiums because I didn't want to be changing plugs every 5000kms lol. I will probably go with coppers next time. Anyway, car doesn't have any issues as far as I know... I have Splitfire coilpacks. It does have a slightly rough idle like it's misfiring at idle but I thought that is more likely from the 650cc injectors not the spark plugs???

Yeh and KYP have put all sorts of sensors on the valley cover that need to be unplugged and removed. Took me about 3 hours to do it on Friday, but it was the first time I've done it on a Skyline. Could probs do it quicker next time. I just got Iridiums because I figured it's better to spend $85 once every 60000kms than however much coppers cost every 5000kms.

I was told you shouldn't do it with Iridiums, they can't handle it or something?

Hey all, I spent a good couple of days last week reading all the threads in the FI section and the general maintenance section to make sure I bought the right spark plugs for my car, and I ended up going with NGK Iridium BKR7EIX which are gapped to 0.8mm from factory; only put them in my car on Friday. But my car is now with Andrew at Hyperdrive waiting to go on the dyno and he called me up to ask what plugs I have. When I told him, he said they are definitely going to have to come out, the plugs need to be gapped to a maximum of 0.7mm but ideally 0.65mm. So it appears I have wasted a hell of a lot of money as the Iridiums can not be regapped and now Andrew thinks he will needs to waste dyno time seeing if they will misfire, then waste time removing the plugs and replacing them, etc. But wherever I look on SAU, everyone recommends using 0.8mm gaps for boost over 12psi. I'm not sure what boost he is intending to run, I know the turbo I'm using has a 20psi atmospherical actuator so low boost will probably be around 15-18psi. I had been expecting the car to make between 350-380rwhp on high boost. Are his fears correct and I've made a mistake choosing those plugs, or am I getting in a panic over nothing? Cheers, Martin.

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone else has had trouble with an ATR43 not fitting? I bought an ATR43G2 awhile ago and it is currently with my tuner getting installed, but we have hit a bit of a problem in that the turbo does not fit with the cooler piping or stock intake. So I have to get completely custom cooler piping and intake piping made up. I had been planning on doing this in the future so I'm not too stressed about it, just that it makes the installation a hell of a lot more expensive and longer. Anyone else have similar issues? Cheers, Martin.

$308!? Yeh you got ripped... I bought a pair of genuine Phillips replacement bulbs for $60.

What are forged injectors? lol. Blowoff valve isn't a performance mod, but it does mean the Falcon was an XR6T not just an XR6. Of course a modified XR6T is going to demolish a stock R34 lol.

Those are halogen bulbs, fairly sure if you are using the xenon plugs then you need to get xenon bulbs.

Auto would be faster in a straight line anyway...

Also pointless upgrading the turbo before you get an ecu, it won't run properly without a retune.

Yeh, not too mention what James said was true. More antilag gripes. They really don't like you there James

Search NIStune.

Yeh much the same as me, I got mine done for $550, bought the board for $200 so all up was $750. But my tuner told me mods won't affect the price at all unless they are done badly.

Yeh man it's plumb back. Not 100% sure what model GTR it is off, but I believe an R32 GTR. Bolts straight onto an R34 GTT mate, I know first hand

Hey all, I have a SINGLE GTR bov for sale, I only ended up using the one on my car so I have no need for this one. $70 plus postage. Cheers, Martin.

Yeh do the exhaust first, saves having to retune when you finish the exhaust.

I can imagine the power would be a bit hard to handle Socs

Well actually I think PowerFC's aren't all that hard to find, they are always being sold on forums like these. The killer is that people still value them really highly, often you end up paying almost as much as it would cost to get a brand new VIPEC. NIStunes are by far the best bang for buck option, cheap to buy, cheap to install, cheap to tune but still a really good ecu. Also retains the stock ECU settings such as knock control, which other ECU's such as PowerFC do not.

Your latest problem, does it tend to happen when the car is warm? Ie. seems to run ok when cold, but starts playing up when the car warms up?