Nav2k

its easy just like installing any system in any car. nothing special about the r31. i did it for a friends car. just go for it.

by the looks of it, it seems u have around less than $400 to spend on a sub and amp. If u front speakers are good, yes, amp them with a 4 channel amp with 2 channels to the front, and the rear channels bridged to the sub. leave the rear speakers running off the headunit. Good subs for $200 might be the Alpine type s or the Fusion few-12 or JL-audio w0's . For $200 for the amp, look at something like a jaycar 4x50rms. This will bridge to 150rms at 4ohms for ur sub and 2x50rms for the front speakers. IMO those 3 subs above r better than that mtx. U'll need some money for cabling aswell, if ur gonna leave ur setup like that, 8Gauge cabling should be enough. 4G would be better, but i dont think u'll need it. Leave about $40 for that + all other wires rca's etc. $20 for wood for a box if u can build it urself. (sorry i went over the budget..but with the amp and subs u should look for 2nd hand or something and get the best possible thing u can when ur on a tight budget..maximise what ur getting). good luck.

yes exactly fhrx @ abcent...well said. nice choice abcent, show us some pics for sure.

then get a faster car or take out ur seats and console and rest of ur interior trim they just add extra wieght too.

awesome! tell everyone at CAA too, im sure they'll bookmark it like we did WAD. i know i will . its too cumbersome knowing someone has stuff, but not exactly what and what price range. this is gonna be good!!

i had 2 of the lower model green subs, looked very nice and sounded alright only ever used 1 of them. i chose it over the alpine type S when i heard the comparisons. decent subs. ive still got my fusion capacitor.

wad is dead forever dbfever which run them pulled out with caraudioaustralia.com which they supported. fhrx would by ur best source (: but WAD was good for browsing thru prices and specs =/ would be nice if u had that on ur webpage @ fhrxstudios . just a thought (:

i convinced my friend to buy the 2chan 50rms x 2 version of the clarion amp for $99 when they had a sale at hifi supermarket. it sounds very nice. for $200 i'd go the clarion hands down over sony. i wouldnt even go near sony if another choice presented itself...clarion for sure. $200 is pretty good price for that one. GET ITTTTT

something like that mrd-500 would be what ur looking for r they DVC 4+4 ohms each? that gives a total impedence of 1ohm if ur using a monoblock. if thats the case then i'd suggest buying a 2 channel amp thats 2ohm stable on each channel cos u'd get the most power out of it that way, and its cheapest. u'd want to give it around 250ish rms per channel @ 2ohms, so have a look whats around. ask fhrx to set u up with a nice 2 chan audison

alpine make one i think alpine also make a 100gig hard disk mp3 headunit

and make sure they dont meet at the end near ur amp for as much as possible (: if u cant help it, wrap some electrical tape around the RCA's for a bit more insulation where they connect to the amp.

its low pass filtered.

its an alright deal..but for that budget i'd go 2nd hand and get some decent stuff for the same price. www.webaudiodirect.com for a cheap nice sub. jaycar for cabling. and a small 2nd hand amp to make up $300. reason being, that amp is very small and used for speakers mostly. not to mention the 222W model doesnt have any crossovers at all which is very rare for an amp..

sounds like ur crossovers arent set. punchy bass might mean that u want a more higher frequency bass than lower frequency which tends to make a low noise which drags on a bit. is ur amp lpf'd ?

r u sure its 500RMS ? thats quite a bit..what is it?also is it SVC 4ohms? or dual voice coil or what? like i said, 500rms is at certain conditions only, ie. 12Volts at 4ohms etc. anyway, u'll want something that can give it over 500rms, some monoblock thats decent..JL audio 500/1 cant remember price on that, i think around $800, alpine mrd-1000 around $800ish too i think. again, if u spent that kinda money on something that can handle 500RMS then u've probably spent how much those amps r worth.

i think theyre 4x6's but theyre hard to find and crap generally unless u pay big $$. best thing and cheapest..would be to make a pod and get some 6's.

how speakers and an amp work? i only know how an amp works internally ...dunno bout speakers (: would be a very long post... im guessing u wanna know what speakers to run off an amp. well what u got told isnt exactly right. 400W max or 400W rms? rms = continous power the amp can produce to a set of speakers under the given conditinos or in the speakers case, the amount it can continiously handle. 400W max doesnt give any indication of a speaker or an amp. those 1000W boss amps only produce 4x65WRMS. If u have a speaker at say 50RMS rating, to power them nicely, u'd want to put 75-100RMS into them, and adjust the gains carefully...ensuring that theyre receiving nice clean power. they can go louder thus before distortion. the way to look at it is...if u have a $400 speaker then u need a $400 amp (:

theres a 7.2inch lcd going around for $180ish on ebay.com.au , guys in melb so u can pick up. its slimline, but u need to mount it and make an enclosure urself cos its got chips hanging off it at the back. the idea doesnt sound bad, dont see why it wouldnt work. they had some issues about the hard drive vibrations from the road...mp3car.com should cover it.. good luck!

normally i wouldnt recommend sony at all...but this deck is really nice for its price.. especially getting it from overseas or something for that cheap.

while i dont know definetly..my answer would be 'i doubt it' mp3 decoding of the cd is done in the headunit itself, the stacker i dont think does anything except scan and read the cd in the magazine slot and send all the info the the headunit to decode and interpret. as for the clarion mp3 stacker availibitly question, i dunno, check www.clarion.com or .au to see whats around.

not that i have a skyline...but u really should indicate somewhere the model number and stuff. another thing, most boots arent really a rectangular box, any mods u do would have to be based on stuff like floor dimensions etc. (use a cardboard box to trace out ur floor and cut it out) and then if u want to do sides, the same thing. the height would most likely vary aswell as depth increases.

its a great looking HU, ive seen it in action. only negative thing i think is its not detachable face, u get some crappy little plastic cover that sits over ur HU and anyone with half a brain knows its still there and its something worth covering up but apart from that, wonderful HU for its price and packed wit hfeatures.

thanks for the info, makes it useful whats ur budget? my subs that i was using are similar, 4ohm and 300rms. if u can afford it, get a monoblock and run the subs at 2ohms. this way u put more power into them, u run them in parallel instead of series. this would be ur best option the next would be a 2 channel, and bridging them to one channel (monoblock coming again..) the last option, which i wouldnt recommend, is a 4 channel and bridging them to 2 channels, and running a sub off each channel. This would mean ur running each sub at 4ohm and most likely, underpowering the sub. its better to overpower a sub and be careful with the gains. what i got was a 2nd hand audison lrx.400 monoblock for $500. it puts out 400rms at 4ohms..but 650rms at 2 ohms. that means each sub is (was) getting 325rms. things to look for when getting ur amp: make sure its 2ohm stable if ur gonna do that. look at the specs for 2ohms and not 4ohms if thats what ur gonna run it at. make sure these specs are for 12V not 14.4 or some other voltage that u cant produce. dont look at max power on the subs or on the amp..it means nothing, only look for RMS at 12V. hope i helped u a bit.

auxillary in. my jvc HU has it at the front.

not much lower at this moment in time, probaly 330. it's going on ebay soon if nothings happening on here.