StealthX

Sounds like a crock of shit. The guy can hardly put together a coherent email in English, what's the chances of him selling a genuine product? 99 times out of 100, eBay stuff is fake, unless it carries the price tag of a genuine item. Also look at his eBay page too, he can hardly construct a sentence in English: What the f**k does all that mean? lol [EDIT] By the looks of the close-up pictures, it looks fake! Check out the Nismo logo on the first pic! looks horrid!

Interesting how you claim that a ~2" press bent pipe flows more air and causes less back pressure than a 3"+ bellmouth mandrel bent dump pipe at any given boost level and flow rate. This completely undermines my understanding of fluid dynamics regarding turbine flow and back pressure. Also we're not talking about the compressor elbow here at all, that is a completely different area of engine tuning. BTW, what the f**k is a "stage 3.5" turbo?

haha cheers, Yeah it cost a lot. all custom work, pushing 10k now including the wheels, went for everything top quality, braided lines, standalone, garrett GT turbo etc... I'm in Perth though. lol

Thanks man! It's not everyone's cup of tea, but some people are a fan! Cheers and good luck dude.

Hey man yeah the stock one is VERY restrictive. As is all stock exhaust work. I'm not a fan of split dumps much, not many people I speak to are, a lot of people have boost issues, and they aren't that much different (power wise) from a bell mouth. A good bell mouth works well and is great to free up a few horses. You'll notice a BIG different with a catback already and 12psi. Make sure you get an aftermarket dump AND front pipe, with a good metal cat, otherwise you're shooting yourself in the foot, cos the stock front pipe and cat is very restrictive also. Happy exhaust-ing!

I'm no engine builder, but you'd want your head studs to be as top spec as possible. They're not THAT expensive, after all you don't want be cruising down the road and pop a head gasket, then have to fork out more to rip the head off, just cos you skimped out on the studs... I say if they are in anyway damaged at all, replace them. Who knows, they might just need re-torquing, but i doubt it if the head has lifted enough to cause a leak. I'm surprised you didn't damage the bottom end at all, if boost was that high, how didn't you get heaps of detonation and end up with killed pistons? Sorry to answer a question with a question, but why wasn't the boost monitored? i.e. surely the tuner saw that the boost was increasing out of sight, why didn't he stop the run when boost was spiking out of control? Don't apologize man! That's what this forum's about!

wow what a bargain! I love the look, I reckon they'd be in danger if you were in Perth!!!

Ok correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't its pretty flawed to be testing cars in neutral? When the engine's under load obviously the exhaust note will be louder, and every engine has different load characteristics (more boost = more load etc...) Wouldn't a more accurate test be to test a car's noise under load, not in neutral? lol Good one EPA...

bahahah yeah I've done that soo many times! and every time I shit myself just as hard lol Good luck man.

Check for air leaks in your intercooler piping and exhaust work! good luck!

I think that apprentice mechanic has no idea about turbo systems. So long as the car makes the same amount of boost through the area that you have the problem (4k - 6k) it won't be a wastegate problem at all. The only thing the wastegate could do wrong is cause a spike in boost and you are hitting a condition called R&R, it's a factory safety thing so protect against spikes in boost, basically retards the timing and adds heaps of fuel, and you'll loose power there. But if you are still seeing 4psi, then that can't be the problem. I reckon you might have a poor spark, try gapping down your plugs (take the plugs out and make the gap between the electrode and the plug smaller. This should improve the strength of the spark.

I think you need a bit more pre tension on the wastegate actuator, the boost is too soft and fluffy, needs some more aggressiveness, a few winds of the wastegate arm should change some things, take it for a spin and experiment with different tensions, then once your happy with the boost, take it back and get a final tune/run I reckon.

ECU motorsports FTW! Loving this course... 2nd year so its all maths and science atm though OP, I hear Dan Pitic is a pretty easy going guy who has had a lot of experience with Jap cars and skylines in particular... Good on ya for going about things legally! hope it works out for ya!

Ouch lol I bet that hurts! Keep it at on topic at least a little bit haha

This condition is worse for MAP sensored cars. Not that that's much help for OP, but my set-up experiences exactly the same symptoms because its hard to get an accurate vacuum/boost/load signal when things are cold. Don't know why this is, but i imagine Air Flow Meter cars have a similar effect. The condition is definitely more pronounced with the more modifications the engine has i.e. aftermarket ECU, upgraded turbos, Intake manis, cams, injectors etc... I reckon its a combination of a couple of things: -Oil is cold and more viscus, thus has more resistance on rotating parts (crank, rods, cams, oil pump etc...) -Engine is cold and rotating parts are that little bit smaller due to thermal expansion, therefore piston-cylinder wall clearances and thus compression isn't the same. This is even more pronounced for cars with forged pistons or aluminum blocks (ally vs steel pistons, different metals expand at different rates). -The ECU injects different amounts of fuel on cold start-up, and the AF ratio vs ignition timing (when cold) won't bring about the best, most responsive 'feel'. Also the stock ECU has the perfect tune for cold start-up, to compensate for the above factors, as soon as you start to change things, (as Yts said) this throws that factory tune out a little. -Extra loads put on the engine (electrical loads (alternator), high steering angles (power steering), air con (A/C compressor). -Lower intake temps because the intake manifold and head are cold. In short, it's always good to let your engine warm up to operating temp. before giving it a sting, everyone knows this...

Yeah agreed, this would be VERY cool. A sleeper EVO 3 of sorts! But one flaw, this guy wants to do exactly the OPPOSITE to what you've outlined here... He's downgrading!

P.S. I go to ECU (2nd year engineering) and have never had a problem! Must be all the pretentiousness @ curtin. haha jks! *cue super-tafe comments regarding ECU*

Sucks man! Some people are the true asswipes of society. Just think of them as the bottom feeders. They will end up with teh shit jobs, ugly wives, deadbeat (like father like son) kids and no future. That's what I like to think of when my car gets broken into or damaged by dickheads. (I've been broken into 4 times and had a brick hurled through a window - so I know what I'm talking about.) lol you think your skyline gets some bad attention! haha try owning my car! lol

Sorry man, no they didn't, Autech made a non turbo RB26 with about 20k worth of professional engineering including throttle trumpets, revamped compression, complete rebuild, re-mapped ECU etc... I believe it was a one off for someone's wife/girlfriend??

Maybe you should master the English language and grammar before you start playing around with highly complex jap cars, no less a GTR! Listen to us mate, don't be another f**khead P plater and listen to people older and more experienced than you! The LAW states that you can't have said car regardless of modifications. I don't know about you, but "me mate has a 33 wiv a turbo rb25 on his p plates and he get away wif it!" WON'T hold up against the cops lol Ok then, you want help? Let me lay this out for you... You have three choices: 1) Rip out the 26, and find an RB25 from a Stagea, put it in, swap the computer, loom, engine, gearbox, transfer case, exha... oh woops! We run into problem A! You can't have a GTR registered as a non turbo! Say you get around that problem somehow... Then fit the rb25 and get it running (5-7k later) you drive it down the road and like all skylines do, you get pulled over by the cops and get either (cue Problem B and C): b) yellow sticker-ed (if the cop's in a good mood) or c) you loose your license for driving a (twin) "turbo" car. Grand total of about 8-10k either way. 4k for the engine and gearbox, at least a grand for fitting and wiring it up, then at least 1.5k more for the fine and 3 months license suspension, or yet another 2-4k for re-fitting the RB26 (including another $800-$1200 to find a good RB26 head) and getting it past the pits. 2) Rip apart the motor (somehow) fit the RB25 pistons, rods, crank, and head. You attmept to start the car. Run into problem D, the donk has a cop of a compression ratio now, due to having longer rods and taller NA pistons. Say you start the motor, you get a few hundred meters down the road, and if you don't run into problem B and C again, you will discover problem E, your engine has SHOCKING fuel economy. Grand total of about 6-8k. At least 5k plus a $1000 bribe for the engine build, note the bribe 'cos no good engine builder will touch it. Then about 1k more per year for the shocking fuel bills you will be paying for. 3) Buy a decent R32 GTS or even a nice R33 GTS-4, or your given "2k daily" In summary: 1) 8-10k plus rego and insurance for the now molested GTR 2) 6-8k plus rego and insurance. 3) 8-10K for the nice GTS(4) plus rego and insurance for the daily, as you don't need it for the GTR. MINUS whatever you can sell it for. In two years I can't imagine you loosing too much money there. Total outlay - 1-2k if you look after it, which, by the sounds of you, you wont (no offense). See where I'm going with this? Just for kicks, I wanna quote your funniest phrase yet: Right, so a molested somehow non-turbo GTR will be worth MORE than said car?? lol I'd buy an R32 GTS with a nice GTR kit and wheels ANYDAY over a GTR that's been raped by some clueless teen.

looks like its an LSD, look for R200 written on it somewhere! if you can find that, then r200 some with an S13 and R33 R180 is the same diff but open centre (don't quote me on any of that! just tryin to help, don't know much about which diffs come in what!)

@ SS8_Gohan Can you please call my girlfriend and explain (read: apologise) to her, as to why I'm now in love with someone(thing) else?? This is the hands down hottest Skyline I've ever seen. I know where I'd be blowing 30k if I had it! Good luck and congratulations to the soon to be new owner!

bahahhaha that website is focking gold! lol @ "clear" headlights!

Lol one of these threads again, how long will it take for p platers to learn! Please, please, please sell your GTR, NOW. Poor car, don't even dare try to do said modifications to such a great car. Buy an r32 2dr gts4, and molest that how you want, but for the love of god, don't touch that poor GTR! Ok now in all seriousness, why would you want to do such a thing? Clearly you have no idea what you're doing, and the modifications you have suggested are wayyyy beyond what you are capable of. No the rb25 won't bolt up the 4wd sump, and no, you can't just wack a set of rb25 pistons/rods etc into a 26 block. Not to mention it's completely pointless because the car will be registered as a twin turbo and it's still illegal for you to drive. Honestly, when will people learn! You can't just rip a turbo off a turbo motor with no other worK, and expect it to run like a dream... Why don't you buy a non turbo to start off with? Better question still, why do you want a non turbo gtr??? Gts4 r32s are cheap as and are still 4wd. Not sure if they come in non turbos, but I'm sure just a regular r32 gts will do for p plates. Please take our advice and don't be an idiot with that gtr... Save your money and buy a gtr when you get off your Ps...

Hey guys, After a bit of researching and such, I've figured out that my problem will be the stock pressure regulation system. The only thing I can suggest is that the x-trail's system is different to a sentra's hence why you guys have never had a problem similar to this! I'm gonna go with a Aeromotive or Tomei FPR I think... Ok so here's the thing, I've been talking to a guy who has an X-Trail GT. A GT has an SR20VET 206kw (280hp) from stock, and his has 254kw at all four wheels (ahh bout 340awhp) on 18psi with an aftermarket turbo, modified everything... The stock GT fuel system is the same returnless system as our QRs run. He said to quench his GT's thirst, he converted to a return system, but without touching the fuel rail. He put an FPR in the feed line, so everything from the line to the rail, is pressurised. So in other words what hes done is put a boost referenced FPR in the position of the stock one, i.e. under the back seat, then ran a return line to the tank... (I don't think it was literally in the place of the stock one, cos the boost line would be laggy as f**k, but its on the FEED side of the system...) My question is how would i go about installing the FPR? The stock lines are rubbery plastic and don't seam to be very easy to just attach with hose barbs, how have you return guys attached the FPR to the stock lines!?? Do i have to go full braided etc?? Thanks!