StealthX

Don't mean to judge, but by the sound of you, I think you underestimate how much time/effort/money would go into a 320rwkw build... at the VERY LEAST, your gonna need a 20psi + capable turbo to reach 320rwkw, plus i doubt stock internals are good for 320rwkw. so youd need: fuel pump injectors bigger turbo (GT35, TO4z/e) pistons/rings rods/bearings head gasket head studs cams (not necessity but would make things easier) aftermarket engine management big exhaust big breaks then apart from that, for drifting youd need: coilovers separate rim/tyre combo a good diff oil cooler clutch and/or flywheel but yeh, you could go to town with an engine build. all depends on your application...

great... yeh ive already done that modification application form. waiting for a response, is it likely its gonna get denied?

Hey fellas, I've been getting heaps of different advice on what I need to do to get my turbo kit on my X-Trail, legal... I've been to the DPI, they said go to the pits and then the pits told me to go to DPI etc... Some people (the police themselves) said I just need to take it over the pits and that's it, wheras others (DPI) said I need to fill in this modification form then get an engineers certification... Then there's MOD plates, engineers certificates, emissions tests... (where the hell do they come into the equation?) From the people who have done it all before (getting mods legal), tell me, what EXACTLY do I need to do!? Roughly how much am I up for also ($$$)? Thanks!

vice grips... where in perth are ya? if your desperate you can borrow my vice grips if ya dont wanna buy a pair...

haha kyle ya dooche! how are ya? its done now man, boosting good! getting it tuned next saturday...

its both, there's a plug that you can screw into the trumpet side if you want it plumb back, or you can put the plug on the plumb back side and make it full atmospheric. takes about 3 mins to swap between 50:50, full atmo, or plumb back.

bump. come on! price drop $165

but its on a honda tech forum and he owns a few hondas...

duuuuuuuuuuuude, stop talking like that right now... haha 'i wants a EBC' should = "I want an EBC' sorry gramma police lol seriously though... Are you prepared to fork out 3-500 dollars for one? IMO, they're good, but don't really do much of a job more than a manual one, boost control is boost control. Unless your spiking and/or need more range of adjustment, a manual one does fine. Only really benefit if you need to constantly adjust yours boost levels in-cabin. Flow me a carton and ill do it for ya (I live in Perth too)

hahah yeh i saw this the other from a forum in the US... i lost it... almost as funny as that guy who did an oil change and tried to FLUSH HIS MOTOR OUT WITH A GARDEN HOSE lol hate to be racist, but this shit ALWAYS happens in America...

nah its a T3 man, all skylines turbos are T3s, even RB20s... like i said, i dunno of the sizes of the exhaust/compressor housings sorry dude.

dont need a GFB hydrid by any chance do ya? asking $180, they retail for $290 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gf...51#entry4945751

yeh doesn't sound like its your turbo, great choice btw! those turbos are the bee's knees! i sat give it at least 1000 kms and see where your at from there. maybe try a compression test to see if anything is abnormal!?

hmmmmmmmmm strange! good to hear your got it fixed bro! just a weird coincidence that your fuel pump died the same time that you did your coolant flush...

'Euro' is an emissions rating. Short for European emissions standards. Pretty much a set of rules that governs the acceptable exhaust emissions, the newer the car, the stricter the emissions standards they have to comply with. I.E. 'euro 1' was 1992 - 1996, '2' was 96 - 2000, '3' was 00 - 05 etc... were up to euro 5 that started in September. Read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_emis..._passenger_cars Before 1992 they just had a different emissions scheme, and I'm pretty sure it only regulated the amount of carbon monoxide, whereas euro regulates the amount of CO, Hyrdocarbon, particulate matter (unburnt fuel), Nitrogen oxide, and combined carbons. So in this respect, your very lucky cos you do't have to pass bullshit strict laws like the rest of us (me with a 2003 manufactured engine = ). I reckon if your cat was bought from a decent exhaust shop and has less than 100,000 kms on it, it'll do the job for your car, odds are if you purchased the cat through a decent dealer, it's euro compliant, be it 1, 2, 3 or whatever. Don't just chuck them in, you'll need to get them tuned, cos the ECU will still be opening and closing them like they're bigger ones and you'll run like shit. Don't just take off the wastegate actuator either, cos you'll run bullshit rich, your carbon level will go through the roof and you'll fail with flying colours so to speak... Wat I reckon to do is put the stock injectors in, and get a conservative tune until they almost max out (what ever boost pressure that is), and make sure all your engine vitals are in order (clean catch can, fresh/newish sparkplugs, good oil level, good coilpacks etc...) Oh and what 'security' said, the steel wool works a treat, captures all the soot and shit, so less comes out the tail pipe. just don't put it too close to your engine, cos there's a risk you can ingest some of it back into your engine! Hope it goes all good for ya man, I know how much of a flamin mongrel these tests are... Thought of the day: The total amount of cars' emissions in the world, only account for 3 f**king % of the total carbon output into the atmosphere per year. NATURAL volcanoes account for around 5%... So next time the Government/Media tries to blame carbon emissions contributing to global warming on average Joe and Jane citizen like you and I, with their 2 cars and average house, tell them to f**k off. Cos its the coal burning, oil burning factories and large scale manufacturing that's doing the damage...

R33 series 2 should have Nissan on the compressor housing. Its made by AiResearch, a division of Garrett, should be able to find the code '45v2' written on it. Don't really know specific details, search '45v2' on this forum you should find some details. RE: induction noise, nothing to do with the wastegate. The turbo's induction pipe and air filter alters how loud the spooling noise is. What are ya trying to say? do you have a screamer installed and you don't think its loud enough? but again, the wastegate/dump, has nothing to do with the induction noise...

If you replace valve seals, usually they bed themselves in for a little bit. You'll get a bit of smoke for a while (or so im lead to believe, i could be wrong) then it goes away after a while... do you know the condition of your turbo? cos it could be the turbo bearings.

Hey all, Ive got a VG30ET turbo on my x-trail (2.5L 4cyl, pretty much a 2.5L SR), boosts well, it hasnt bin tuned yet, but just say it runs out of puff at the top end, are there any other compressor housings that fit on that are bigger? Cos I already know it can be highflow'd quite easily so thats an option too. I'm looking to make about 250hp, do you reckon it'll be ok? thanks...

yeh im not sure about the carbon canister... Don't know f**k all about them., but yeh your PCV system and breathers are hooked up correctly. do you have a good cat converter? <-- this is the important part - get a euro 2 or above and youl shit it in with an RB30. Dunno if you know but emissions standards are dependent on the year of engine manufacture, so your original RB30 (im assuming its from an R31/30?) will be rated against 1980s emissions standards, which aren't that tight at all... But defs try get it re-tuned bullshit stock/conservative and see how you go, maybe even E85 if you get desperate. only problem i can see is those injectors are too big to be controlled at small revs, so you'l prob end up running rich, and in the test, it only simulates everyday nanna driving, i.e. under 4k rpm, and youl hardly go into boost at all. you might need to go back to your stock injectors (or smaller) just to pass the test then whack em back in after. moral of the story: talk to a tuner in regards to an emissions test. they'll know what to do... Good luck bud

This sound like an idle air problem i.e. the ECU doesnt know how much air to take in at idle, so it "hangs" and "searches" for an idle. I've got the exact problem with my x-trail at the moment. Its an easy fix for me, just need an ECU reset. i dont know how stag ECUs work, but someone here should know how to perform an "Idle Air Relearn", most nissan cars have the function. BUT, could be the IAC valve, try that first! From what I've heard, RB engines have this problem heaps, and its solved by cleaning the IAC, theres a How-to somewhere on here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html <- that might help...

hmm strange... explain this? you mean to say your running a water cooled turbo, without the water lines attached?

solid tune with a working cat and all your emissions gear intact (carbon canister, pcv valve and valve cover breathers) you should be fine. take it somewhere (performance shop) and get them to tune it again to pass an emissions test, most tuners will know what to do. need to give us more info to answer your question dude. lol i cant stand ppl who just ask questions without supplying any info! what engine is it? what modifications? what engine management? how much boost? how much power? etc...

bump, anyone interested!? price is negotiable. shoot me an offer i need/want it gone.

profile changes depending on the width of the tyre dude. 255/40 is a taller tyre than a 235/40 - thats where the problem is. cos the "40" is a percentage of the width. so a 235/40 tyre is 235mm wide and 40% of 235 = 94mm of sidewall height. and a 255/40 is 250mm wide and 102mm of sidewall. so in order to have the tyres the same rolling diameter, the fronts need to be 235/45s - even then they are a little out. a GTR is an AWD car, get all tyres the same size, they dont need to be staggered.

regardless of the facts, this bitch is a f**kin gold diggin whore!