StealthX

willing to part with hairy hobbit foot? and will you post to Perth? haha lol good luck man, cant wait to see your finished deo, VQs kick arse!

yeh funny you said that, the NISMO sticker came off today! lol sorta got sick of it lol might spray the cooler black but i think i like the look of it, might leave it as it. The cooler piping is black, not that you can see it behind the bumper anyway! never really envisioned it to be a sleeper, but just the way things have turned out, it actually is. Thinking ill paint the mud guards back to black too, they're a bit "look at me". Anymore suggestions for exterior/appearance mods?

bump

selling due to enjoying a flutter more that a BOV noise located in Perth, NOR will post @ seller's cost. asking $180 (brand new for $290) as you can see in the pics, its in excellent condition expect for a few tiny chips in the trumpet. works great, doesnt leak under boost either... Includes: BOV, weld-in adaptor (unused), trumpet, recirc. adaptor, plug, original box and paperwork inc warranty card. PM me or call/msg 0424438501 Thanks.

my source is off a nipple, right in front of the throttle body, that way, regardless of intercooler pressure drop and any small leaks on hot side, 7psi of boost must pressurise that line for the wastegate to open. sometimes this means that the turbo might actually be boosting 1-2 psi more in order for 7 (or your set boost level) to reach the signal line. in regards to your spike, make sure the signal line is perfectly sealed... other than that, spikes are a bit of a mystery - they could be a million things. best bet, get a computer with a boost cut out. with my EMS stinger, if i spike more than 9psi (boost is set at 7psi), it just cuts the spark and injection, safe as houses. Just had a thought, cos your running the signal line off the carbon canister, there's your problem, cos the boost has to fill up that entire line before the wastegate gets the boost signal required. wastegate lines need to be as short as possible, and directly from the cooler piping with nothing T'd into them. good luck buddy

still for sale!??! pretty keen!

thats sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo hot...

just some beauty shots for yall...

my mates just finished putting a 1J into a cressida where an auto 7M was. it was an absolute headf**k. Toyota design them motors VERY strange i.e. turbo assembly, water pump, clutch fan and oil filter under the intake manifold business... But having said that, i rekon a 1j to 2j conversion would be easier. save up a bit of extra coin and try to get your hands on a later model VVT-i model, preferably in a jza80 front cut or stick with a 1j!? ther already f**k off good motors... good luck man!

thanks man, yeh needed to drill the pan for the oil return. took the pan off to clean the hole and catch the shavings, otherwise i wouldve said bye bye bearings

dunno man, prob early in the new year. i lost my license and get it back on christmas eve. going on holidays after then so soon after i get back. but the cars all finished minus the tune on the 27th @ hyperdrive.

Whats the fixation on the HR chassis mate? They're nothing special, virtually identical to an ER33, minus the motor, in which the ER33 RB25 is MUCH better. forget the HR33... Even if you try to drop some other non turbo motor in, the car still, And I doubt a mechanic would drop a 26 into an R33 for nothing bro, the motor alone costs about 4k so you're up for that plus another 1k for little things like hiring an engine crane, engineering costs, mod plates, emissions testing, vehicle inspections etc... I don't think you realise how much of a job it is to just "drop" a motor in. Plus then you'll need to upgrade breaks, suspension and probably running gear to cope with the added power.

the model code has nothing to do with the engine. RB motors in r33 skylines never had carbys. HR33 = GTS - have a single cam, non turbo RB20, and it would be gutless, plus there was never a turbo version of an HR33 ER33 = GTS25 - RB25DE (most people just call it a GTS as opposed to a GTS-t) ENR33 = GTS-4 - RB25DE w/ 4WD. model code is GTS-4 - a non-turbo all-wheel-drive ECR33 = GTS25t - RB25DET this is the popular turbo R33 that everyone has BCNR33 = GTR - RB26DETT, AWD etc etc... and yeh, G= Gran T= Turismo (gran turismo is a french phrase meaning grand tourer) S= sport, T= turbo, 4= AWD and R (as in GTR)= Race. in short bro this model doesnt exist... [edit] and yeh, you can put a 26 in it later down the track, but i doubt you realise how much of a job it is, plus the 4-5k you'd be up for.

vg30det turbo? thats the 45v1 IIRC, might be a tad laggy tho...

lol i rekon i'd last about 300m on the road before a yellow sticker if i had no exhaust haha and after all, im not blessed with 6 cyls of heaven sounding RB note, ive got more of an SR sorta sound. So i gotta tone it down a little Yeh its on the road, not tune yet so i just cant go into boost that far yet. starts making boost at about 2.5-3k and prob full boost by 3.5k maybe? not sure... next vid is an in car one for sure lol

heres my eaxhaust im soo stoked about...

space is at a premium... couldnt fit 3" back past between the manifold and thermo fans...

The wrapping dries out with the heat of the exhaust anyway, doesnt hold any moisture that would rust the pipes. The best thing to do is paint the piping/manifold with high temp paint to seal it, then use the wrap. Soaking it in water makes it easier to do a good install (nice a tight with good, even coverage) Ive heard that wrapping isnt that good to use on stainless, but i used it on my extractors (when i was NA) and never had a problem... Im using it on my steampipe turbo manifold and considering it on the stainless dump to keep engine bay temps down - dunno about the dump being stainless tho. +1 ceramic coating is the shit, but VERY expensive, heat wrap does wonders for engine bay temps. Also use it on my oil return line that runs very close to the exhaust, along with hotside I/C piping... Oh yeh and use gloves when you install this shit, or youl be picking out invisible fiberglass splinters for weeks to come...

Hey guys, just finished my turbo kit and its all running great, one little question, before i go to get it tuned... Taken it out for a spin after the exhaust was done today, and ive noticed at sorta 4k rpm and WOT it starts making boost, with the wastegate flap not hooked up at all, i.e. no actuator... When i say boost its only about 1-2psi and doesnt rise from there (4k to redline it hovers around 1-2psi and has an audible spool and flutter between gears), but i was under the impression that not actuator = def no boost at all... With the wastegate on it should make boost about 2.5-3k rpm id say... Its on my x-trail ( basically a 2.5L SR motor - QR25DE) with a VG30DET T3 turbo, and a 2.5" dump and 3" catback. plan to run 7psi straight off the stock actuator. Anything to worry about or is it sorta normal?

http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/hi...nt=P1000660.flv

Rods are Rods, as long as the small end and big end bearings fit snug and their ok length, go for it. I don't know shit about V8s internally, so i dunno if they have the same size bearings. [sorry for double post :| ]

Rods are Rods, as long as the small end and big end bearings fit snug and their ok length, go for it. I don't know shit about V8s internally, so i dunno if they have the same size bearings.

Velcro! amazing idea! No less GTR parts too!

woops didnt see it was a GTR... yeh doesnt really matter hotside vs. cold side, in the end doesnt make THAT much difference... Plus taking it from the cold side allows for any tiny leaks in the cooler piping, and youl get that tiny bit more boost out of it. I've always thought its more accurate cos closer to the TB(s) gives the signal of exactly the pressure that's going into the engine But yeh, doesnt make a huuuge difference... As for mounting it, try drilling two little holes in the plastic, then feed a cable tie through and around the controller. Thats if your cool with having 2 little holes in your dash that is...

You know what grind my gears... WOMEN and their strange ways. nuff said.