StealthX

I'd stay away from sourcing it from the inlet mani/post throttle body. Cos in a situation of say half throttle when your on boost, you signal wont read what the turbo is actually putting out. Under half throttle the turbo will need to spool up more than say 10psi, for 10psi to reach the source... I'd say find a good spot (reasonably close to the throttle body) and drill and put a hose barb. And for f**ks sake, make sure its sealed. Some gasket maker should to the trick, better still, get a stainless hosebarb and weld it onto a bit of steel piping, the cross-over pipe to be exact... Don't use the hot side, its not very accurate (hot air = less dense = less pressure) Happy boosting...

yeh strange, my mates 32 gtst has it too! maybe jdm optional extra from the dealership?

thats fkn hot! although im not a fan of all the 'GT-R' badges and shit, cos clearly its not...

Yeh those recalls were pretty nasty! Shoud've had one for the secondary intake butterflies coming loose too. Dunno if you've heard of that one... Most Nissans are the same, wicked cars, but usually have a few issues that need ironing out first... Yeh its a fun car to drive aye, the manuals go pretty hard from stock anyway! Free bump for a fun, reliable car!

series 2 is no different to series 1 mechanically bro. good luck with the sale.

maybe your just experiencing a bit of lag... maybe when you change into 3rd, its not quite in boost yet. cos 4-4500rpm is quite high for a standard hi-flowed turbo, so my best bet is its just lag. and just cos you are hearing your turbo spool, doesn't always mean its making boost, there's a thing called boost threshold its the point at which the turbo actually starts to make boost, but in fact, your turbo is spooling up way before it actually makes a boost situation - its still spinning on idle! maybe just chop 1st and 2nd, then keep it in 3rd and wind it out (of course where the speed limit allows) cos i rekon when you drop into 3rd, your just under the boost threshold and not making any boost yet...

V-band is good but i've heard they seize up after a while. its really up to you, Vband is much tidier and easier, but 4-bolt is simplier and more reliable.

woops my bad...

anything with a PCD for 114.3 and 5 studs. s15 any skyline falcon, commodore just yeh make sure they clear things like guards and breaks. go skyline for sure, you know they fit and are the same size etc. but good luck trying to find ONE. try a wreckers or a jap importer/workshop

nah doubt it, id say thats a shitty gauge id say! maybe check the cable in the engine bay. get a mate to put 'pedal to the metal' when the cars off, and see if the cable actually (mechanically) opens the throttle full. at full accelerator, try and open the throttle more, if you can, youve got an adjustment/cable sretch problem... or maybe... i dunno but do neo RB25s have some sorta traction control that partially closes the throttle under wheel spin/very aggressive acceleration? i know 1js and 2js do...

haha just stubled on this tonight! what a coincidence lol

thanks for the positivity! better than all the "family wagon" and "soccer mum's car" comments i seem to get sometimes lol

you can get the studs out my using a smaller socket, IIRC its 8mm i think, you'l notice on the very end of the studs, there's a sorta hexagonal design, that fits into a socket, have a try to see which socket fits... As for your broken studs, try vice grips to get them out. Or if they've broken off at the head, if you're really worried about it, any decent workshop should be able to weld something onto them and twist them out, or even drill it out for two bigger studs... And the gasket surface doesnt need to be a work of art... Just make sure there's no large pieces of gasket left on there, a bit of carbon deposit is fine, just again, no big bits. If it feels sorta smooth to touch, its fine... Use sand paper's probs not the best to use,you dont wanna get bits of sand scouring you cylinder walls (stranger things have happened). Just use degreaser with an old cloth and elbow grease... Good luck...

Just wanna give you guys a bit of a sneak peak of the progress. I gave up trying to do the exhaust myself, so its getting sent off to carline mufflers next friday for the dump and front pipe, the rest is an easy job that i can actually do myself. Cooler piping's done, oil return is done, vacuum lines and breathers, pretty much everything except the exhaust. heres some pics: And yes, before anyone asks, the bumper does fit on with that intercooler piping...

Yeh I reckon there would be... Anything post turbine, that's restrictive or small is gonna limit your power. Turbo exhausts work on the principal that everything moves from areas of high pressure, to areas of low pressure. So consider the engine side of the turbo, the turbine wheel and the exhaust housing is a very restrictive unit, hence you'll get high back pressure on that side - which is needed to spool up the turbo well, but then on the exhaust side of the turbo, there's almost no restriction at all - just straight hollow pipes, so by making the exhaust side less restrictive, you're promoting flow through the turbo. And more air out = more air in = more fuel in = more power... Happy boosting!

I'm gonna venture a guess into that jerky feel you get when coming off the throttle in a manual... I've noticed it heaps too, coast along in 1st gear with half throttle, then take your foot off the accelerator, and you'll feel a real jerky situation. Not sure, but its something to do with your ECU turning off your injectors when there's no throttle input, then it upsets the gearbox and all the slack in the drivetrain (clutch, gearbox, diff, final drive etc.). The jerky feeling is the shock that by turning off the injectors, the engine is no longer turning the drivetrain and the wheels, but rather the car's motion along the road causes the wheel to turn the drivetrain and engine instead... The shocking back and forth is all the slack in the drivetrain being taken up and let off etc... Anyone get my drift?

first off if you're worried about oil pressure (too high or too low), get an oil pressure gauge... I got a cheap-ish calibre one from supercheap auto, its such a good quality unit, install was pretty easy too. From memory it was only about 80 bucks. But yeh, say you change from 2nd to 3rd at like 5500rpm, youl go into 3rd at about say 3500rpm, the difference of 2k rpm, will actually cause your oil pressure to drop slightly. so in any situation when ya change up gears i.e. your revs drop, your oil pressure will fall slightly. This is cos the crank directly drives the oil pump, above a certain rpm (my x-trail's QR is about 1200), the pressure will jump up to and stay at about 100psi, from there up, it will only change about 10-15psi depending on your rpm. Pretty hard to explain, but i highly recommend getting a gauge to keep an eye on pressure, especially with the more mods you do to your RB. But regarding the loss of power, i dunno... The power you 'feel' is always gonna go down as you go up through the gears, youl never get the same pull in 3rd as you would in 1st and 2nd. Do you mean youve got a definite drop in power in 3rd gear itself?

i doubt is a genuine borg warner for US$390... but it looks ok, youd just have to block off the stock water lines and find a new oil feed flange and return flange. depending on your manifold, youd need a T4 flange welded on (or an adaptor), and an external wastegate flange, and wastegate (obviously)

If you have a boost leak, you'll run very rich and cause some of the fuel to exit into the exhaust before its all burnt. as for the white smoke, i havnt a clue, maybe turbo bearings are shot, but it should be a more blue-ish smoke rather than white. If it baffles you anymore, don't hesitate to take it to a workshop to have someone look at it. cos you'll just end up playing with things you don't need to, with the risk of damaging something and wasting money. I learnt this the hard way, my mates 32 had a boost leak, but we ended changing the maf, intercooler AND catchcan before we found a split in a boost pipe!

blew off an intercooler pipe? vacuum leak? AFM?

I stand corrected. I Thought on every situation there was a 28-day appeal window, obviously not on some offenses. Exactly my point, didn't wanna appeal it cos I knew it would've bin a bit of a grey area! But yeh, as for wacky dee, def don't drive until things are cleared up, at least if you do, drive like a nanna and perhaps not in the skyline. Good luck hope everything goes your way!

Funny how 'God' to some people has become just something to blame things on when shit goes wrong, its pathetic. RIP to the poor guy, and his family. Did anyone else find it a bit insensitive that all the policeman was talking about was the traffic, when an innocent bloke has died!?

Your license won't be suspended straight away, you're correct in the 28 days thing. He actually wrongly confiscated your license that day, cos in all situations of a loss of license, there is a 28 day period that you can appeal/still drive. I just lost mine for too many points (try loosing 10 points at once, for being on the phone while driving the phone was on my lap), without a seatbelt with on passenger without a seatbelt too - i was IN A f**kING CARPARK! - I might add that I'd bin in the car less than a minute) I appealed it, because the carpark was technically private property, and road rules don't apply, but they argued that the part of the road WAS part of the public roads. Long story short, I don't have the money to go through with the court business, I just copped 3 months. My 28 days didn't start till after I'd payed the fine, received the excessive points letter, and taken that to the govmnt and got the official notice. As for you, I'd say you did the right thing in not signing the paper, the cops then should've given back your license then. Plus, until you pay the fine and sign the paperwork, it wont be processed, and your 28 days wont start. I'd say cop the fine and 6 months, simply cos I've no experience in all things legal and wouldnt want to go into bat against the po po. But if you feel confident you've got a case to appeal it somewhat, go for it! Good luck. P.S. it annoys me that the bad drivers on the road are the ones that DON'T get caught. Speeding alone isn't a valid way of classing a 'bad driver'. The soccer mums paying more attention to there kids than the road, the retirees that are too old to drive, the dickheads who don't use indicators, the assholes that sniff up peoples asses, THEY are the ones that shouldn't be on the road. There's WAY more dangerous things than speeding.

(If its any help) I use a VG30 single turbo on my x-trail, and I love it. boosts well. might be a tad laggy on a RB20 however. If you're on a budget try hypergear or an SR20 T28, the S15 bb turbos are the duck's nuts of stock turbos i rekon, wouldn't cost much to get the manifold modified to accept a t2 flange either! You could always get your existing turbo rebuilt and/or highflowed too! good luck.

sweet, well done! happy boosting!