scotty nm35

Doing a 'how to' would be great, but I would be careful what you mention on a public forum. Permanently canceling a pedestrian safety feature would be frowned upon by the authorities and your insurance in the case of an accident, especially if a pedestrian was hurt. You may end up paying any compensation yourself, even if it was their stupid fault.

My reds are fine for the street, although I went 1kg less front and rear than what they recommended for the track. They are about to release an intermediate purple Xover version in between the reds and blues which may be more suited.

Must be an early model 1UZ, the later ones let go around 300kw as I found out the hard way.

Seriously if you think a thin smear of antiseize on the thread will insulate the earth from the plug you have been eating too much of it, but like I said with stainless threads you are mad not to lubricate it with something... Or just not use shitty Bosch plugs.

Just in case you need more lag? Keep the smaller turbo, and when you decide to man up, run e85 and wind the boost up to 30+.

So Nissan Aus would want $400 odd for it? There could be a market for refurbishing the old ones at that rate.

Did you try Amayama or just the Nissan counter? The UAE site is usually around half the price of Nissan Aus for some reason, although shipping can sometimes blow the cost out.

Because your ECU has someone else's tune on it no doubt. The more you mod it, the worse it will get.

No, why would you? There are literally hundreds of tuned Stagea's getting about, why would you think they are all in RWD? I think you should do some in depth reading, search for similar issues, speak to a few tuners locally and come to your own conclusions as to what will work best. Now you have gone manual perhaps a Standalone ecu is your best bet, but you have so many options with the RB25

Bosch are the ones using shitty Stainless in alloy heads, and I really don't like using breaker bars on plugs. Try it on a long thread VQ plug, it's not fun. I will keep doing what works for me, thanks anyway.

I always use anti-seize on stainless plug threads, I have had too many get stuck in the head. No need for it with NGK's. As for tightening the plugs, I never use the torque method, just the half turn after the crush washer seats.

You can't check for dry solder joints without a microscope, did you simply resolder the pins? Sounds like you may need a tune, the Mines could be setup for any mods...

Pretty sure they all use similar parts, even the S15 I am working on uses the same IAC with the hose fitting blocked off by a welsh plug.

^^ This, otherwise you went too large on your turbo. It's capable of 430kw at least, hanging off a factory manifold with a gutfull of ethanol...

It's nearly impossible to find the materials, otherwise any tig welder could do it. I know AM Performance do a bit of Ti work, but I am yet to find anyone who can source tube locally. Flat sheet yes, but then it needs to be rolled and seam welded. Alloy is lighter, cheaper and much easier to work with, for exhausts and intakes.

I just installed MCA reds in the Evo, so glad I did. I was tossing up between Shockworks and MCA for months. Both offer great service and in house re-valving, replacement springs and parts are always on hand for very reasonable prices. I went MCA in the end due to their time attack results, they definitely know their shit.

I think I could just turn this one down in the lathe perhaps, and machine the part that slides into the hoist arm. Worth a try... Will do mate.

I think it was a BSPT pipe thread, so a little liquid teflon would seal it nicely.

Can you make a few diameters and heights? I am after 4 for the hoist...

Another case of 'you are better off not knowing' Just wait till the coolant hits 146c along with the oil temp.

No, i didn't sorry.

Any aftermarket pump will require the wiring be upgraded. I have 255's in stock if you need one for $110. The filter and 2 x Oring part numbers will be in the M35 parts thread. Clean the carbon on the sensors with contact cleaner, ethanol or metho.

I flushed the system as best I could, a few times. Then I filled it 50/50 with water and white vinegar. Took a few days, driving the car, but it came good. I wouldn't leave it in there much longer though. It will clean up all the rust in the system, but it will also need a damn good flush after. You don't want the crap going through your radiator either, so an inline filter in the top hose is the go, even if it's just a stocking slid over the hose fitting.

Depends on a few things. The fuel level sensors that reside in each side of the tank could need a clean, they build up a varnish from the fuel. The fuel sometimes sloshes over to the other side of the tank, and the computer that works out the level from the twin sensors is a little stupid I think. Eventually the two sides level out and the gauge should read higher again.

Blocked heater core? Is the coolant brown? I have unblocked a few heater cores lately without removing them, using water and vinegar in the rad.