scotty nm35

Unfortunately e85 isn't that green due to outdated manufacturing methods. If solar stills were designed local to major cities i am sure the environmental costs could be massively reduced. Only the government could get that off the ground, but the lack of ethanol support has guaranteed ethanol's failure to become a mainstream option.

I want to know what happens if the westgate bridge falls down or gets damaged, Melbourne would be completely screwed. We need some other unimpeded path westside for future growth, stopping at 30 lights to get through the city is just stupid. I for one supported something get done about it, but here we are sticking our collective heads in the sand again.

probably full of rust in the nipple, it should come out after a second or two if you have emptied the reservoir.

Don't get your hopes up, there are absolutely no Autech drivetrain upgrades to the M35 Stagea, it was a facelift for suckers only. The 260rs got all those 33 GTR goodies, then they simply rode off the name. I saw a nice little tipper truck done by Autech the other week, perhaps that had an RB26 twin turbo diesel upgrade too?

Delphi have designed heated tip ethanol injectors for this reason, and I thought about heating the fuel rail, but it's just easier to dump a shiteload of fuel in there to crank it, then back it out as the water temp comes up. Another reason to have the stock fuel system running petrol and a secondary ethanol setup for boost. These problems would disappear and economy would be massively improved. As for e85 burning colder, I have seen over 900 degrees Celsius measured just before the turbo at Sandown, but it was hitting the soft limit at the time. It still gets just as hot, you just have more overhead to run higher boost before it does.

We have known Caltex were ditching e85 for a year or more. They were under contract to supply e85 to support the Commodore, now Holden obviously don't support the fuel anymore, it was never anything more than a green push from GM anyway. United seem more than willing to not only give us a better product, but to invest in ethanol plants. They are in it for the long term, hence the price hike. If they can't make a profit out of it, they would likely back out too, so I have no issue with the price they are asking lately. If you can find a better race fuel for the price let me know. I am getting 300ks to 40L in the evo, much better than the 400ks to 80L in the Stagea. I suspect it's due to the higher compression, new engine build and being a smaller lighter car, but the tune obviously plays a large part. Most cars running ethanol are pushing decent power so it's hard to compare to stock fuel economy figures. Perhaps octane on demand is going to be the future of e85, all our cars will run fine on 91 while cruising, the higher octane is only required under boost, so a secondary e85 fuel system would work great alongside the stock injectors running petrol.

lol. It's ok, it's just the PCV oil running down inside the plenum and sitting on the valve overnight. Shelberight Alex.

No, but it's only a Suzuki so just take the bulb out.

I guess you are correct, the noise is totally normal for a flogged out bearing.

Lol, not everyone has 4k for an exhaust. Tao is trying to make 400kw with the smallest of budgets, which I am all for. I agree a 4 inch may give you another 30kw, but bang for buck that's a riporf.

Oh no... Take that off before you kill someone.

Cleaning a dry solder joint won't repair the connection, you need to heat the solder, remove it using a solder sucker or wick and replace with new solder. It's not like soldering irons are expensive, they are much cheaper than a second hand sensor. Tweaking the pots will likely make the gauge read wrong, then it's useless.

Thanks Simon, entry paid.

Cams entry fail. Won't let me pay due to being owed a $40 refund?

Not the lower tip part, the part where the Square Oring is at the moment. The standard Oring will fit back on, it will just slide around now the captive plastic part is gone.

If you connect constant power to the pump does it work? Does that then allow the car to start?

You would need to check the pressure at full boost also, it's more important than what's going on at idle. Countless people have changed fuel pumps without checking fuel pressure. Most have absolutely no problems. It's usually only the large pumps (460L) that have caused issues.

Notice there is nothing to stop the Oring falling off anymore? It has been chopped off to accommodate the new square GTR Oring. I can supply the round 14mm Orings but they may slide around and fail to seal in the plenum properly I guess.

Should make no difference to the tune if the pressure remains the same.

Without seeing a pic I have no idea, but it isn't 14mm now is it. I assume the lower retainer for the oring has been modified to fit the square Oring, but you should be able to get a 14mm Oring to seal without falling off. PM me if you need some.

I assume you have 14mm 1/2 length injectors? I can supply the height adapters if you need them. Do you have the plug adapters? Should just drop into a 34 with the correct adapter to make them 3/4 length. If the injectors have been laying around a while I would be a little worried, enough to get them cleaned/tested anyway.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297345-m35-factory-boost-gauge-repair/?hl=%2Bboost+%2Bsensor+%2Brepair#entry4953193 Just re-solder the 3 pads for the plug, they become loose over time.

I prefer the 4 or 5 port MAC valves personally, as they bleed the pressure off once the valve is switched. Did you see that method down the bottom?

Stock the pump doesn't outflow whatever restriction you have, so low or high voltage the pressure will remain at 43psi base. Larger aftermarket pumps require more current, which the stock wiring can't supply. You should really have fitted thicker wiring through a fuse and relay when you installed it. If you want to slow down an aftermarket fuel pump you will need a PWM controller preferably, the stock two voltage dropping circuit isn't going to handle the current.

We don't know your configuration, what pumps are supplying the engine? At what power is the pressure dropping? Are you running stock lines etc? What is your base fuel pressure with the vac line to the reg disconnected? If the fuel is getting hot you are returning too much fuel to the surge, without cooling it sufficiently. Might want to sort that out.