scotty nm35

Funny enough, I have to double clutch the thing sometimes. The carbon twin plate clutch seems to be expanding under heat (which is what they 'do' apparently) causing it to not enter the gate and grind a bit into gear. Not sure exactly what's going on as it only happens when the clutch is hot at the track. I will have to change the slave cylinder first hoping for a slight improvement at least. You going to have the Atoyot ready Dave?

Yes, although it's been around Sandown and PI already. The Stagea is still faster at this stage. I won't get my hopes up for a quick time.

In. Better have my MCA reds in by then... Or even Simon will be quicker than me.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340012-clickingrattling-noise-when-engine-rev/

You need it on a Consult 3 to get the codes, any other way is wasting your time. No, the speed pickup is very robust, I have never seen an issue with it. There are two shaft speed sensors in the RE5.

That's not muscle. They are a pita to work on too. Tarted up VN commodore. AC cobra replica big block, with scharger. Who needs a roof anyway.

Nissan make ADM cars? I thought they were all imported from Japan... Or perhaps Korea... Or possibly China. Anyway, the Stagea isn't gay enough to participate in Facebook groups, or anything that has JDM in the name.

EPCdata... There are probably hundreds of sites that do similar off Vin No. Good drawings on some too.

The turbosmart T's have a smaller hole than most others, for the VQ25 I prefer the Turbosmart, but many have had issues using them on RB's. The best option is a stiffer spring in the actuator, as close to your desired boost as possible, then bump it up a little from there if required.

You could drop it down here Andrew, I have helicoils. That thread doctor can be a pain in the arse to deal with, I know from experience.

Surely the mechanic could have worked that out...

Could be the timing chain or cam advance units too. Are you able to drop it down for a listen? At least I can tell you what might be the issue. I'm in Hampton Park.

On the passenger side it's the middle and rear you can mix up, as they sit opposed. I always have refurbished stock injectors on the shelf, I will PM you.

So he thought it might be the exhaust, but you couldn't drop two bolts on the dyno to make sure? I vote a collapsed cat or some serious restriction in the exhaust.

VQ's rarely ping, the knock sensor is pretty good at picking up knock and dropping timing out. Are you sure it isn't just a bad batch of fuel in the tank? If it is indeed pinging, I would be looking at fuel supply. Have you changed the fuel filter at all? Does the noise sound like nails dropping on a tin roof? This.

Ethanol produces more torque compared to petrol for similar power, especially when you lean on the boost past where the power stops rising. It is also nearly impossible to find the point where cylinder pressure rises exponentially due to it's anti detonation qualities. At some point some part will let go, where that is who knows, it comes down to your tuner at the end of the day. If the 1UZ was on petrol, due to being high comp we would have had to stop boosting well before the point the rod went, with less timing. Revs were kept pretty much stock as I remember.

It was a late model 1UZ, light rods known to be undersized for the 1200nm of torque it was putting out. Ethanol was the culprit, along with the GT35 I fitted to it. The RB26 block split was due to cylinder pressure I imagine, as was the Cossie Sierra race block that did the same thing. Tuning past that imaginary point where pressure beats steel.

I doubted it too, the laws state it must self level and have beam scattering devices installed.

I have seen a few built blocks split their bore at not much more than 450kw, personally I would be keeping it as close to stock sized pistons as possible so as not to weaken the bore. It's not pretty snapping or bending rods, I have been engulfed in the oil fueled fireball whilst standing beside the dyno, I would hate to see the carnage if it happened on the road at full noise for the sake of a relatively cheap set of rods, especially as you have the engine apart... Why bother at all, just see what you can get out of the stock internals.

They all have high pressure washers and auto leveling... as useless as those things are. Apparently if you have projectors you can somehow get away with HID's, but I have yet to try that in practice.

A strut brace won't do shit for your 350gt, you need the series 2 underbody bracing for those if you don't have it. BC's have better road valving, better than Tein imo, unless you plan to track it. Try getting in the V section above and asking your questions, you will get much quicker answers from people with later Skylines.

Only in Melbourne, I know Niss4x4 have a few. I had major issues with my sensor throwing codes and going into throttle limp mode, bloody dangerous on the road when all power just cuts out. I disconnected the cruise and never had an issue again. Shame, Leon's cruise setup was damn nice.

I can send you a refurbished set of injectors if you like, but that probably won't be the issue. You can most definitely mix up two of the plugs on each side, the ones that face each other where the plugs are nearly touching. Try it out before anything else...

Otherwise you could get one from the wreckers, either V35 or Stagea. I have changed a few of these so far though.

Seems all the sites selling it are in Russia...