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Everything posted by scotty nm35
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Wtd: Vrs Gaskit Kit For C34 Neo Stagea
scotty nm35 replied to Rotaron's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
VRS is all gaskets. Nissan say 4 weeks, but really they will call you back in a week or two. They just over exaggerate the wait so you don't hassle them for the parts. If you have the part number, get on Amayama and see if they have stock in UAE, if so get it air freighted direct. Can't take more than a few days and will cost half what Nissan want. -
Hey Brendan, welcome. Get up there in the Stagea section and say hello. You have much reading to do.
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2003 V35 250gt-m Sedan
scotty nm35 replied to theponyremark's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
You need it on a Consult 3, Data scan aint going to communicate. If the BCM is the problem, you can't just go swapping them, they likely need reprogramming off your existing BCM. Trying to repair the board would probably be easier. Not sure if these run a flasher relay or if the bcm runs them directly... I would have to check the diags. Is it only the ticking noise you are worried about? -
The more people looking at options the better, but as Dale said, there is a substantial R+D outlay to be the first. I went through it with the Emanage, and the Fcon, I don't plan on progressing onto anything else as I realise the market will never support it. No way I can justify spending the same coin as the car is worth, just to get a similar tune with more inputs/outputs, so why would I expect other owners would. Shame really, these cars have such potential with a standalone ecu and tcu. If a reflash came along, like the evo, I would be all over it, but no way would they be silly enough to give us open source access.
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They rarely come out. You won't see these cars at the shopping centre hard parked for fear of defects, and most spend a majority of their time in workshops. My 4G63 was built by Barry recently, and although I run it at 300kw at the moment, it's built to handle 800-1000hp as I plan to push it much harder soon. Just because you build a 1000hp engine, doesn't mean you have to run that power all the time. It's a lot easier to reach these days too with ethanol pumps on every corner, just fit a large turbo and wind the boost up... If your motor and drivetrain can take it. I saw the Gameon Supra on the Edge dyno, my god what a beast, although I don't really see the point in a rwd road car running 800kw.
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Summary Of P1-110 Of The M35 Info Uber Thread
scotty nm35 replied to MrStabby's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
There is no need, just clean the stainless mesh filter with brake cleaner. Use high temp silicone to reseal the sump, and don't do the screws too tight. I have never had to replace the gasket once. If you need parts, there are some on Ebay locally it seems. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Auto-Trans-Filter-Service-Kit-KFS964-Trans-RE5R05A-Speed-5-/251422734703 Not sure if they are the parts we need though... No pics. -
If you sent the loom down I could do the wiring, but Craig (Jetwreck) would probably be your best bet if you can get on to him. There are a few ecu options, with varying degrees of success, but the emanage is by far the cheapest. I wouldn't be pushing more than around 250kw with the EMU, unless you can get onto e85. The timing drift of the stock ecu is the problem, the EMU only adds or subtracts timing and fuel from whatever the stock ecu decides to give the engine.
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Boost Gauge And Trans Temp Oil Gauge
scotty nm35 replied to re34perGTT's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Good chance the sensors will be different resistance, you need to put the prosport sensors in for the gauge to be accurate. Do you have an oil cooler? I run mine in the hoses, same with the auto temp sensor. -
It really doesn't need to be 45 degree, if the end of the sock sticks out of the fuel it doesn't suck air, not until the inlet hole on the pump is uncovered anyway. What pump are you running Peter? I have heaps of different socks here.
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I guess a discussion is too difficult for you without the personal insults? Have a snickers mate. I was discussing what Hypergear posted specifically, relating to his GTT, and of course you would gain a little power with a larger heat sink on the front. If there was room, and if the customer was happy to run a monstrous cooler I would gladly fit one, and bugger the downsides. But to hack up another GTT engine bay just to run decent piping to it, generally isn't worth the risk. On the road the cooler's job isn't difficult, it's not like loading the engine up on a dyno with a pissy fan. Most people can get away with smaller coolers and pay only a small power loss and in most cases there is simply no need for anything more than a decent 'legal' return flow, which I have proven many times. Perhaps instead of everyone bagging return flow's, work out which ones are crap and recommend the better kits? The current Blitz certainly isn't one of them, and for the price it was a bargain. There is no 'power limit' on coolers, (or most other parts) only varying degrees of efficiency. That was the point I was trying to make.
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Boost Gauge And Trans Temp Oil Gauge
scotty nm35 replied to re34perGTT's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Oil gauge is perfect. I run a Prosport exhaust temp probe in the manifold, works perfectly. Just follow the instructions to turn the damn beep warning off. -
Do you expect there is much more power to be had from a GT30? I would have thought 400kw was doing pretty well when the cooler is limited to 250kw apparently. I always laugh when people put a power cap on a certain parts, when it's the entire setup causing the limitation. How much of the restriction is due to heat, and what's the point of measuring pressure both ends of the cooler if you don't have temp sensors also? We are essentially talking about making a car defectable here by cutting holes in battery trays and reo bars, so saying a 100mm cooler is mandatory to making what is fairly low power is a big call, especially when that cooler is proven to flow much more. I guess it's easier to blame parts than find the actual reason for the power limitation.
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Works fine on the road, no problems driving it soft, but at high revs (8k) I get lockout. Pretty common in the evos apparently. The evo clutch master gets it's fluid from the brake master, so it's got new race fluid in it. When I change hard and fast for a few gears the clutch gets bad, completely locking me out of any gear for up to a minute or so (till it cools down I guess, never seen it before.) I have vac bled it a few times, but I suspect the seal is weeping in the slave or perhaps the clutch pedal isn't adjusted well like you said. It does have the restrictor in the clutch line at the slave still, but I was told that's fine. I might piss it off and change the slave anyway.
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M35 | How Do I Run A Dual Exhaust?
scotty nm35 replied to NZnismo's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Lol, PNM's are a little easier than the turbo model nm's, there is no Attessa pump like has been discussed. -
I can get new 550's from my wholesaler, but they are $130 ea. You are much better off getting top feeds and a rail kit imo, better injectors for less coin.
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Gt28 Turbo On R32 Gts-t Question
scotty nm35 replied to Kanaric's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
^This. $900au in US dollars is about $200 at the moment yeh? -
You have a GTR now? Don't blame you for not wanting to go. I have heard the death grind of rb26 bearings too many times at Sandown. See you there guys.
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Perhaps the temp and pressure are mixed up? pretty sure the plugs are different though. The wires won't stick far out of the loom, you will need to stick your head down there and have a look what is plugged into it I guess, or take it back to the engine builder to find seeing it worked when you took it there...
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Meh. Go aftermarket for the quick response Greg. The sensor should be hanging off the side of the block, behind the water/oil cooler block. It will be the big one there, the small one is temp. Like I said, if you need an a new one the VQ one I have here should be the same, but I would say seeing we reshelled the car, the wiring probably isn't hooked up. Did the old shell have the pressure gauge? if not the wires probably aren't in the loom, being an NA pos.
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You got any spring Titanium laying around work mate?
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The stock shocks and springs are well flogged, it sits 2 inches higher on the passenger side with no-one in it. I will be sticking with factory swaybars for now, no funds for those after buying the coilovers.
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Pretty sad the Stagea is faster around corners. lol. The Evo feels like a boat in comparison. I have been assured when the reds go in it will be magically transformed into said racecar.