Kinkstaah

You all know I can't say that on SAU.

We're saying much the same thing I think Did he do a bottom end by cracking the bores themselves? If so I was unaware. I would wager the amount of timing is was advanced I was basically compressing an explosion. It is possible that the 34 block is just weaker (somehow, it doesnt look to be any different), but there's plenty of people making much more than me out there humming along just fine. Should the tuner in this case have said "Dude the timing numbers here are way beyond literally any car Ive ever tuned?" instead of "Gee this engine really likes timing"? Yeah probably. I'd wager that won't be said again and the magic E85 envelope won't be pushed that hard again. I'm not saying E85 isn't safer than 98, it is. On the same turbo making the same power the E85 is much safer. Whether going a larger turbo making 300kw on 98 vs a smaller turbo on E85 I am on the fence about. It's really pretty hard/impossible to know. Being safe and sensible is the best idea. E85 can let you press way further on the same hardware and it is "Safe" in the sense it gives you no indication things are about to go south quickly. You can run 10+deg or more timing and get 70 "Free" KW! You simply can't push that hard on 98 because the fuel itself is going to stop you, so you can back off at that point (i.e dont run it on a knife edge) and enjoy the car. There is no such thing as a truly free lunch. Run a few degrees of timing over your 98 but don't look a gift horse in the mouth Your own car's performance at 270kw is a good testament to keeping it simple. If I could refund everything I'd ever done I'd want a LS in my car instead. Make the magic 270-300kw as lazily as possible!

Thats the thing, not many people are splitting blocks with 400kw, but if you run as much timing as I was running (which was really wild, looking back) the car will "run fine" and E85 will not give you any indication you are near a knife edge at all. It will continue to make power and continue to take timing and continue to respond "well" even though you're well into imminent death zone. Unlike 98 which will ping, E85 will give you no such warning. I now run E85 with basically the same timing (2 deg) as 98. That said my 98 tune is more conservative than most people's run in tunes, so E85 is essentially in there for safety only. You can do crazy things with E85 (like say, add 15 deg of timing!) but don't. It's best not to make your first point of failure the engine block. I since compared many maps with many other cars at the Dyno making similar power and ones making much much more. I now get unreasonably worried when I see -9 setups on GTRs making 320kw on 98 and 390kw on E85, people making 370kw on -5's and 450 on E85 and think oh damn there's gonna be some issues there soon.

Whaaaa? What happen? Everyone I was with that day was super happy they could lend the helmet you offered. You're the shining pinnacle of "Track day people are awesome!!" in their eyes. I did not know things went badly. Please tell me you didn't split a block due to aggressive timing due to magic E85

To be honest, the quote he has been given isn't really that bad. The cost would be similar to take a GTT and take it to what is essentially a GTX3071 -320kw style build. It is a very expensive exercise. You will almost certainly blow the NA engine at that point too. GTT engine would likely be ok. Put a V8 into it instead

Only problem with E85 is that it allows you to push so hard on the tune you will break the next thing up the chain as it will never ping. This ain't so good if you have metal head gaskets, head studs, stronger pistons, rods, crank because when they aren't the weakest point you end up Gregging it™ 98 isn't a bad idea as it stops you from going too insane, its a built in safety measure of sorts to make sure the rest of your setup is actually going well. E85 is like fuel-steroids. You can get the 'right' power on 98 in a Skyline at least to the point where everything else starts to become a limitation. You may not get forum and instagram #efame but you will be able to have fun with the vehicle and have a modicum of reliability and do more than hardpark it and fap over a dyno sheet if you go full retard with timing. (or full advance on timing, really)

I live right next to Glenny Kebabs and I hate this quite a bit at times (so many stanced golf R's holy shit) I originally wanted to buy a Supra and could have, back in the day. Would have done a lot more driving I assume, but wouldn't have (needed to) learn anything at all. There is an element of fun to learning stuff, and there's always more stuff to break learn from

There is more to performance than dyno charts I just said centrifugal chargers have their benefits which aren't immediately apparent. Midrange kick is pointless if you are breaking traction there. Seperating your stuff from being tied to your exhaust manifold is also nice. The smart answer if modding a RWD skyline for power is immediately LS convert it.

After installing turbos, my next car is going to be a supercharger setup. Heat management > ALL. A RB with a 300KW centrifugal charger instead of a Turbo would probably drive like a similarily powerful V8 N/A (like a LS1-2) Except way less problems with heat, lines, plumbing, etc. If I was adding F/I to a car which didn't ordinarily have F/I (like a S2000?) a centrifugal charger suddenly becomes really very viable.

Centrifugal chargers also have the tendency for an engine to not feel 'boosted' at all, a positive displacement charger you mostly feel down low, turbos give a big turbo kick we're all familar with Centrifugal chargers just feel like a larger N/A engine, their power on a dyno is almost a completely straight 45 degree line. So you do get instant boost, but max boost is always at max engine RPM.

But... but Racepace did literally nothing to my car.. perhaps that isn't the best example

Serious responses only thanks

Anyone know a decent auto elec that is mobile in Vic? Not necessarily an "after hours cash only" style job, need a professional that can un-f**k a clusterf**k.

I wouldn't think the standard manifold is that much of a restriction, it was flowing my GTX3582 pretty damn well (over 420kw on an auto). I changed it 'just because'/overkill. I think if you're aiming at something sensible with a 7163 or a 7670 and don't intend to run either to within a mm of their life it will provide a pretty decent result. If someone was starting over in the skyline world I'd probably recommend a 7163 and aim at making 280kw or something like that and enjoy the thing. Or just immediately put a LS into the car and be done with it

There is a certainly an element of gleefully waiting for destruction and drama for that setup. He took it to the drags and broke both drive shafts and a rocker (ran 11.08 and 1.8 60ft at 136mph) Didn't seem to mind though I personally have an over-spun compressor wheel of a GTX3076R on my desk here at work too. In any case, I wouldn't expect to wind up a 7670 that far and have it last nearly as long. I would have been happy with the response of the thing under the foot if it made 280kw. All I was saying is that it highlights how much the other parts of the setup play a big part in making something work, and to me, it was a good example of it! My own turbo hasn't hit the dyno yet. I have done a fair amount of road tuning and timing is unchanged from the previous turbo, which is very conservative and I am running E85 now. Effectively running E85 on 98 timing numbers.. I do not intend to run mine hard and aim for something like ~300kw (through auto, manual time soon) at about 16psi. I chose the 7670 because I wanted less power than the GTX3582, and running a 500kw turbo at 270 is pretty inefficient. /life story My butt dyno seems to think it's about there (300kw) currently. I will find out on the 16th to actually put it on the dyno at Chequered. Yes I am aware everything involved (RB28, T4 TS EFR with EWG, E85) is massive overkill to make 300kw.

Meant kw, it is running 45psi

Sorry I should probably re-iterate. I have driven a S15 with a GTX3076R in Twin Scroll making 450RWKW on a 2L. On a dyno, it shows no power till like 5k. The owner said "its actually really responsive!!!" so I drove it thinking it would be a complete and utter pig, but it was actually really very tractable and pretty awesome. I immediately thought my car would be way too 'responsive' given I had a similar size turbo on a much larger engine going on. I previously had a GTX3582 on my setup. I went from the stock converter to the current converter when I was using that turbo so I was familar with the benefits of the converter and how it applied to drivability and performance. It made a big difference. It made the car feel MUCH more responsive. I just switched from a GTX3582 (gt35 wheel) to the EFR7670. I have also had a GTX3076r on my car in the past. That is what I had before I had a GTX3582. All of those were single scroll on the stock manifold. (gate off housing) I remember how much the TC made a difference. I remember driving the GTX3076R without the TC. I am remembering driving the GTX3076R on a much smaller engine I swapped because like you said, I 'needed' to go from a GTX3582 to "something smaller". It so turned out that a GTX3076R with a larger housing was about the same price as an EFR7670. Considering the cost was the same at that point I switched to the EFR to see how it'd all go. I don't regret the change, I'm not disappointed, it's pretty much what I had expected because my expectations weren't hoping for the second coming of Jesus himself and I'm aware of other limitations of my setup :p. I feel for 99.9% of us, "good enough" is literally any product from Garrett, Precision, or Borg Warner.

I am actually quite interested in Lith's result. I have my 7670 T4 TS on my RB28 (RB25det neo) and the biggest thing I have noticed is how the thing sounds. To be honest, I'm suprised there isn't more discussion on the sound, the things are so amazingly 'present' with various hooshes and wishes it feels like a 12 year old has got an iPhone app and is going crazy with turbo sounds from the passenger seat. My setup is different than most though being on a high stall built auto (3100ish). but truth be told it just reminds me of when I had a GTX3076R on the same setup back in the day. It breathes better up top because well, it is a T4 Twinscroll manifold and external gate as opposed to a stock manifold with a smaller housing. It's a little more responsive because I have a $2000+ stall converter instead of the stock one, etc. I was more impressed with the GTX3076R making 454rwkw on a 2L SR20 (Twinscroll) and its drivability than I am with the 7670 on a RB28. So I am curious to see how Lith's setup turns out, I expect some of the gains by "going EFR" are due to updating an entire setup, getting good manifolds, new dumps, having no leaks, having enough flow, and thinking the whole thing out and spending big. That, and coming from a setup in the past which wasn't as 'developed'. I'm sure the EFR is a better turbo than the equivalents, but I reckon some of the hype is due to updating the supporting mods to go with the turbo. It could also be my auto gearbox, the actual physical time it takes to start locking up could be having an effect, and equalizing both turbos. The EFR sound is a definite plus if you like turbo sounds though

I always thought the lights were good enough right up until you posted that picture. Thanks for that.

I deliberately buy silver wheels so I can rash them and it's not very visible.

2000 or so?

It's not really the turbo, I recently changed to an EFR (on a 2.8) and the difference is not as crazy as people are saying. However, there is notable little differences that come from switching to a better manifold, better housings, simpler setup, etc. The "EFR is god" is only a part of this really. You will get similar results from going TS GTX3582 for example if happy to wind it up. Is it better than twins? Yeah. Twins honestly are only really good if the circumstance is "They are already on the car" If you are pushing for power, ever, or even wanting the "Best" setup for the power your twins are currently making, remove the twins and go single. It's a question of setup and technology. Don't polish the turd. Don't refine a setup for old turbos. Don't get 'the best cams' for -5's. Replace the setup. Use stock cams and a more modern turbo/manifold setup. This is the smart way forward. You could of course go for a nice new twin manifold for twin new tech turbos but there's nearly no point at all doing that unless you'd rather just burn money for no reason.

Note: on RB28 Note: also auto Note: those things also for sale if keen lol Note: link doesn't seem view able on phone app. Works on PC!

100%. Wasn't actually very close to the strut at all. Bigger issue was touching manifold with the housing rotated in a certain way. Fixed easily with a spacer though I just used more than 1 gasket as I had that on hand at the time. I even have 3 gaskets if you don't want to buy a spacer lol. Seemed dodgy as, but it worked for me, and never leaked. I assume it'll fit other cars, mainly cause the R34 has less room than the other 2 there with ABS and heater hoses etc. Which this also clears fine.

I had it on a R34, with a gtt manifold [emoji14]