Kinkstaah

How about pads for D2/KSport/Attakd kits? Are these options even available? I know I want to upgrade something before I attempt to stop my barge on a race track, and the pads that came with the kit (green ones) I can induce brake fade on the street in about four corners and have had brake pad splatter all over the place. Clearly not ideal lol. Been Recommended Pagid RS29's, but they are in the region of $700 for a set. What else is comparable?

Street tyres useless until warmed up some? My 14.7 agrees

Oh hey, thanks for the link. I do have the canister on my car... but I do NOT have that plug part.. at all. Which probably explains what is going on!

Sure is!

As pictured. 99% sure what it does is not needed or handled by something Non-OEM now, but can anyone advise on what this ordinarily is for?

check stuff after you have the battery you may not even need to...

I have a feeling those are exceptionally bad looking wheels

Best kebab of my life in Tokyo srs gl finding

Question still stands

Kudosmotorsports.... For all your Nissan parts when you don't have the numbers

Shockworks in vic is another option, prob between BCs and MCAs products. Would consider them if I ever get rid of my trusty (i.e.. expensive..) Sydneykid Bilkstein/Eibach setup

When you do your fast and the furious antics on this street, how far do you go? Are we talking 0-60 here or full quarter miles at a time? Just curious as to what interval to live my life by

Getting the car to run, and getting the car to run right are completely different worlds, too. Even if this car was running, and SEEMING to be okay, you'd still absolutely get it checked to confirm what seems okay, is actually okay. As someone said, fuel, air, spark. It's gonna be a guessing game as to which part of the system isn't functioning but every system is pretty much testable. As ben said... Car off the road for 3 years, and NOW super impatient to get it going?

The thought to just bin it all has happened many times, but I couldn't in good faith sell a disaster to someone else, it's just not the right thing to do. I didn't want to be that "someone" so.. one must keep trucking. Just... so many things wrong!

Yep, as funny as it seems, it's probably taken 5 years + of my life, and $25,000+ all due to someone's complete ineptitude. when you think about it, is actually not very funny at all..

I also supplied custom pistons, rods, crankshaft and an otherwise apparently working engine, with a lot of custom parts. Exactly who measures head studs? What do you compare them to? There's no measurements or dimensions on the ARP website, they don't just have sets of $400 head studs hanging around for no reason other than to just measure them up.. they thread in the block, they're labelled ARP, they came from an assembled engine and randomly thinking some muppet is going to install [something] into a RB instead of using the part made for an RB, for literally no reason isn't something you'd expect. Like, who would think you'd put in 2JZ head studs (or whatever) into a RB? And why wouldn't Subaru injectors work/check/be investigated? I have an American crankshaft and rods, custom pistons, Japanese oil pump, different cams, etc etc etc etc, the injectors aren't Nissan, or Mitsubishi, or OEM, running aftermarket computer, etc. People put LS2 coils into RB, why not Subaru injectors? I do suspect the wrong head studs is probably why the engine's gasket blew/head lifted in the first place which is why it went to Headspec to begin with, as I was very much over [removed's] work at the time. Given no one could really determine why it failed, other than the block looking like it had done 300,000km since the build and being ovalled, everything else 'seemed' OK. Maybe found the culprit now

Funnily enough the thread on them was much the same, it was the bit in the middle (dunno the proper term) that was quite different. It was also twice as thick and yeah, very confused when they were 1/2" instead of 14mm. Headspec didn't think to check them, because I had every other decent part and ARP Studs are re-usable and it's a safe assumption that RB25DET studs would be used in it. Well, apparently not a safe assumption at all!

more lols at my expense Found out why my head was lifting under boost, on cylinders 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6... .. the ARP2000 head studs I bought from [removed] many years ago are clearly not ARP2000 head studs for a RB25, and are 35mm longer... than genuine ARP2000 head studs. Also whatever they are is 1/2 instead of 14mm. WTS ARP Head studs...suit.... something?

I wish for the life of me to know what is IN the RE401B. It's not the RE401A, because that is the N/A box (so I am told), which I have also been told is "wildly weaker looking" than the GTT box. I had a N/A box that had been built by MV, then got a new GTT box which I suppled, apparently very different. It's also not the RE403A, cause that's different again. RE403A vs RE401B = ???????.

TIL all 90's nissans have stock head units and are unable to be changed in any way. See also: $50 reverse camera. TIL also my Nissan does not have 4 cup holders!

The difference in cost for a 'reliable' 300rwkw and 'reliable' 400rwkw is well known for the engine. It also applies to gearboxes

Buy my entire gearbox and flex plate and torque converter and PCS so I can buy a manual conversion. Wouldn't even be mad, at this point... that's how much money you have to spend to get comparable to what comes standard in a skyline for $0.

Happy to ship anything

You sure you're a hipster?

It is, but VB is kind of unique in its shittiness outside of this scenario, and its relative goodness in this scenario. It's kind of similar to the relationship between being drunk/hungover and McDonalds