krzysztof

my advice for 300rwkw rwd, exedy organic will be good enough and it'll still drive like a normal car. if you want to slide it maybe consider a cushion button clutch..

+1. thats just gold. good find.

yeah the begining of the sweeper before the last turn

yeh think about it, the transfer case has no idea whether clutch is slipping or not as long as its fed enough power to the back it'll start winding up the front. best get 2nd opinion if you have any doubts. g/l

i have a racepace spec transfers case, not sure if it makes any difference but the torque gauge shows some torque is going to the front either when in between gears of when your giving it a flogging so i think that part of it is normal..

work out which one it is and tighten it till it stops.

i wouldn't touch it mate. actuators are set by factory to a specific pressure, they will always open close at the same boost level. if you want to adjust the boost, you need to bleed the air thats going to the actuator. by doing this you're essentially tricking it to hold the wastegate closed for longer, therefore higher boost level. cheap ebay bleed valve is 30bux and will do the job. in my opinion the adjustment on the rod is simly to set it up initially so at nil pressure the wastegate is completely closed. that just my understanding so take it as you may.

its pretty easy to tell when a clutch is rooted and slipping.. but i guess if you've never driven a car with a slipping clutch then you wont know. if you cant tell yourself, take it to a mechainc. any mechanic with half a brain can tell u if its slipping or not. good luck mate.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...ck-t327002.html

best bit was the fast and furious style revving sound effects they put over the top right as they were pulling up this 'modified GTR' yeh i lol'd hahaha

+1 for r31. nothing else compares to the price

well we're pretty limited they hey.. if you dont want to do any further mods every piece of suspension on the front will have a a bee's dick's worth of adjustment between it and the next.. loosen each part and tighten it so its favouring not scrubbing. its a similar case on gtrs with turbos between head-manifolds-turbos-dump pipes-front pipes

deal. no test drives. lolsifdisguyhahaha... g/l with the sale man.

what an amazing stretch of road

if it isn't scrubbing at the front adj castor rods will fix it. if you have adj castor rods and still cant get rid of the scrubbing or it scrubs front & rear, you've fiddled with the height, your only other option is to go a smaller tyre, or wheel with less offset. g/l..

dont do it man it looks so porn with these wheels.. deej.

i bought a cheap plastic roller and ended up snapping it within a few mins.. you'll find that using your fingers and massaging the dynamat in will work far better than any roller.

got some more pics of the exhaust:

i dont know 32s but i'd put my money on them going in.. its same motor/sump and most likely the same hub. ive done a quick search on here and couldn't find much, best way to do it is to take your shafts out and compare em

gear boot and console are sold mate. i still have: - exhaust - driveshafts - tensioner - catch can hose

ok.. the exhaust goes on eBay this week

twin plates are over-rated. my car has a 330kw at the wheels, single plate organic clutch with 40,000kms on it, has seen plenty redline launches and still bites like it should. ive never driven a twin plate but have had a 5 puck brass button in another car and these are just overkill.. an organic clutch which drives like any normal car is more than enought unless your pushing spupid power.

looks like u all got lucky with the weather! bec will get the results from the wrx club when they're official and it'll all go into the sau championship spreadsheet pics or ban!

+1 for racepace.