GTR32

looks like they are fixable then...like your approach Mtn Runner. Advan reckon they'd go through 30 in the space of a year but then they get a lot of cars there.

try a search using 'sydneykid' and 'hicas'. everything you need to know. on a 32 GTR i used a PMC lock bar and had everything else stripped including the rear impeller in the PS pump but retained the PS cooler.

Guys; just bought these HKS dumps (has HKS cast into them) supposedly for a GTR. no way the exh housing bolt pattern will line up to my N1 turbos although the casting is the right shape ie round on one side and angular on the other etc. if you know them you know what i mean. was there a 'way back when' change of turbo exh housing flange patterns maybe? as far as i know garrett/HKS/nissan use the same exh housing / dump bolt pattern. any ideas? cheers

Sorry to hear about your hassles must be frustrating the crap out of you. Can't help but if for some reason they aren't going to fit please let me know as I'm after a set. Hope you get it fixed. Cheers

i don't think they have a website as such, you can try calling them (they're in Silverwater, Sydney) and they'll prob be able to send you a photo.

am i missing something? (highly possible) you mentioned a chip but if you opt for bigger injectors you'll need a prog ecu or remapped stocker. as you know that alone will give you a power increase. if you get a used pfc for $800 that's not much more than the cost of injectors and gives you much more flex. some people have had good results with increasing pressure - within reasonable LIMITS - as a 10% increase or thereabouts puts the pressure below the upper threshold stipulated by the manufacturer in most cases.

advan have cai boxes in their showroom, not sure if they have them ready to go for sale though. can't imagine it would be a problem for them to make the thing up if you told them what filters you have.

assuming you want someone to do the work, try researching the places that have a good rep for rebuilt engines. i think pro engines in canberra (a number of SAU posts) and advan in sydney are two from memory. they all have their own way of doing things to some extent because they stick with what they think works. as for turbos etc any good tuner should be able to work with what's on there without risking the engine as ancillaries don't need running in ie if you front with a new engine and 2530s that should not be an issue for them. just make sure that the ancillaries are in good shape so they don't cause problems; buying a used critical ancillary is a risk i wouldn't take with a new engine. the search engine is your friend, there is a lot of info about what to do when you get your rebuild done including what running in oil to use. look for posts by sydneykid as he's shared a lot of info in this in the past. make sure you do your research - pay for the stuff you need and save your money on the stuff you don't. according to more knowledgeable members of this forum the n1 water pump for example is perhaps not the best for a street car as it was designed to be most effective at sustained high rpm. n1 oil pump differs little from stock except for the pressure relief spring. that said, many people opt for both and i respect their reasons for doing so. good luck

So you're becoming a tree hugging peace activist and buying a Kombi? j/k, what's the change of camps? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Bet it's a Cobra with a Lexus V8

Go Bilstein they are better sorted at the moment. I have Koni and they have some valve rate issues but we're working on that.

Try Ideal Seat Company in Melbourne. They are the agents. About $300/side.

mate if it's really in 'chinese' you're in trouble...LOL but i know what you mean. do you have pics? either you have just a badge, or some serious stuff there, but if it's really nismo it's more likely to to be internal if anything, ext wastegate etc doesn't sound like the typical nismo approach. any clues on the car etc ie different vin to other 33's? i think funky monkey knows a bit about vins etc might be worth a pm to him. interesting location by the way, what's it like there?

pm sent re the roof lining

Hi Aztec; another option is to convert your existing units to steel wheel. as for aftermarket stuff i think the 2530's and the N1's have it, Sydneykid once described the 2530's on a street car as heaven on a stick but that was pre the popularity of the GT-SS and they seem to have a good rap.

Hi David; a couple of observations to take or leave; drive away quickly from anywhere that asseses your suspension by bouncing it. 30mm is one hell of a sway bar, no? that will affect the car in motion and static, might not be the springs. my unsolicited advice is to take the suspension out, get it tested ie spring rate / dampers on a proper test ie Roehrig at .123 and .3 m/s so you get high and low speed damper velocity (as opposed to car velocity), find out what the stock specs are for everything including roll bars, and then spend as lttle $ as possible getting it right. it's the only way to do it of you don't know what you have in engineering terms. yep it's a pain in the bum but there really is no other way to get it right IMHO. best of luck

Hi retrotec; they moved. i think they're in beaconsfield now, but definately in Sydney.

get rid of the wheel hopping get it to hook up and see the time come down. try softer rebound front dampers if you can, wil help your weight transfer to the rear. good job by the way letting us know how you went. best of luck.

Chris; can I please get pictures of the gearknob sent to [email protected] Thanks

Guys; If you're interested I have a set of Ohlins - the type with the threaded height adjusters - and main / helper springs with pillow ball top mounts to suit an R32 GTR. They have been dynoed on a test rig and and come up very well. I'm after $1000 excluding postage. If you're interested please PM me. And these will not go on ebay. Regards

are there any QLDers still there? HALLOOOOOOOOO echo echo echo

there is merit in going with the smallest tyre you can put on the rim as it stiffens sidewalls BUT don't go nutz as you'll pay...tyre, rim, rear 1/4 panel etc. as for picking a tyre with stiff sidewalls i reckon it's anyone's guess to some extent unless you've tried them. ask a dealer and they'll fill you full of bs most of the time as they don't really know - there is no published data on sidewall stiffness. i had michelin pilots on a 32 GTR and they tramlined...a lot...like a big...er...tram but michelins were known for soft sidewalls. new falkens fixed that but no where near the grip. this isn't a tyre thread so not going there. do a google search for tyre/rim size compatability charts and you'll find many manufacturers publish them, i keep the toyo one nearby but remember sizes ain't always sizes - and not created in equal widths for a given branding ie 235 - do a search on the suspension/handling/tyres forum for SK's notes and you'll see what i mean. point is a chart will give you an indication of what manufacturers recommend and then you know there's some room to move. just my 2c

I've heard similar

I went through this on the 32 GTR. I think you can get replacements from JAYCAR. I upgraded.

It's simple - because I don't need to buy retreads. If price were the only consideration then retreads it would be. Re the Falken not coming apart, I had one that was out of round from new. I've had Michelins blow out twice on gravel, supposedly because they had soft sidewalls. And have no doubt that at some stage our tyres are likely to be made in China. Who knows what the long term results will be on the Maxxis but remember how a US company called Ford put Firestone tyres on their vehicles and several fatalities later admitted that they were a problem? Anyone can get it wrong. Remember Hankook. Han farking who? Wouldn't touch them...even a crap sounding name...but look at the people raving abut them on these forums. Like or hate the way tyre tests are done, here's a Maxxis tyre that is half the price of others and actually appears to out perform many of them. That's got to be worth considering.