GTR32

Suggest Konis for the road, Bilsteins for the track. Konis are damping adjustable, you might need to revalve the Bilsteins to get a nice road ride. Have heard Billy's are a bit harsh for the street otherwise. Don't go below 350mm hub to guard or you'll run into alignment probs and need adjustable susp bits to compensate. Make sure your bump stops are in good nick and the right type also. Many people forget about the bumpstop. Talk to Toperformance in Melbourne, East Coast or Heasman's suspension in Sydney, or call Kings springs in Qld, they in particular are very helpful. And if someone says 'yeah these springs are 20% stiffer' as salesmen are likely to do, ask them WHAT THAT MEANS TO YOU. If they tell you it's just stiffer, ask them to explain what you will notice and if they can't tell you apart from the bleeding obvious 'firmer ride' go elsewhere. They should tell you that a 20% increase in stiffness is about the point where you'll start to notice a difference. At least that gives you some indication of seat of the pants feel. Cheers

Hi GDTNO; can you send pics please?

Lawrence I think I know where you are coming from but not sure I agree with you on that. Lateral G force does not equate to grip. Lateral g force increases with lateral acceleration since force = mass x accel. A car that corners well can do so at high g before letting go, but the lateral g increases once it loses grip since although mass stays the same, lateral accel increases when it's going side ways. Hence my question about power oversteer and less front wd, as JE suggested, seems strange. Might not work in the real world™ but since when have Nissan engineers lived there. LOL!

try linear bearings in melbourne they are very helpful.

Hi Guys; i don't mean the normal heat up/dump oil/refill/run a bit/dump again/ refill (last refill optional if you're like some people i've seen). my local import garage has a box (yep not a drum) with 'engine flush' written on it and this stuff goes in the oil filler cap. theoretically good i guess, particularly since we hear about imports with built up sludge etc. and what happens when said sludge decides to dislodge and start traveling around to visit mr lifter. what i can't figure out is what this flush stuff does to get rid of what's already in the engine - the only thing I know that gets rid of oil sludge is a solvent and none if that will go near my engine internals. cheers and thanks for any feedback

which cost how much if you don't mind me asking?

rule 1. go the mallet. it could be hub locator is too tight for some reason in which case...see rule 1.

I agree, be careful. Cruise can get you into probs if it's not like the factory stuff.

Hi Mike; Donnellans the Tyremen in Melbourne are agents.

Hi Stephen; I had RDA rotors on my 32 GTR for 12 months and have run them on the front of an RS Liberty also. No problems on a daily driver. I also understand they have joined up with Endless these days.

Hi SK I know someone who wrapped headers on a BB Chrysler in a cramped engine bay and found that the temp got so high the pipes started to degrade/become powdery and collapse after about 12 mths. Might have been crap steel too. have you found anything similar? Probably not otherwise you wouldn't do it, just wondering...

Guys; i'd like to know what you think of an idea but please put your flamethrowers away. i want to do an rb 30 conversion on my R32 GTR. it's a daily driver, doesn't see the track and i don't drop the clutch at revs from the lights. but i do flatten it from there up to the speed limit if possible and i like torque for roll ons and corner exits. i know the merits of rebuilding an engine with forgies etc but i think it's just too much for what i need. i've read the threads here (ok most of them) and it seems a stock the rb30 is pretty bullet proof (see the very first thread from joel) and can stand 300-330 rwkw and 450 ftlbs reliably all day. this is the bit where you put the flamethrowers down... i called GEM engines and they quoted $1600 changeover for a short engine that could be built to my requirements if necessary ie balanced etc. so if i get a block drilled for the cam tensioner, the head bolt holes enlarged to suit an rb26 head, make sure the cr is right and keep revs to 7500 what can go wrong? it seems to me that i'd be getting something close to a production line standard engine and i save myself the hassle of a rebuild. over to you

pics please to [email protected] thanks

Hi Daniel; I work in the same place as your Dad, met him some time ago and actually had the fortune to cross paths the day the car came to Canberra on a trailer. I was impressed for a range of reasons and I'm sure it will cause a stir, I think you have done exceptionally well in getting it. Glad to see you on the forums and that you have it registered. Regards Scooby/Mark

bugger! you beat me to it. ROFLMAO!!!!!!! Dear Sinista; thanks for your letter to dear Dorothy. i've stopped laughing for long enough to see the keyboard so I have to ask; what pray tell did you do to your knob? is it damaged from overworking your stick? or did it just fall off? you could always put your knob in a vice or lathe and repair it, perhaps heating it with a blowtorch first if neccessary, or is it beyond that? i suggest you seek help though if you feel as though your only option is to hit your knob with a hammer. Regards Dorothy

wazzat? there was a skyline in after the 32? not posseeble! surely a company like nissan wouldn't tamper with perfection. oh hang on...now i remember...it was called a firty free or dirty tree or something...anyway it was an ODD number from memory. unlike the 32 and 34 which are even... or...'balanced' now me sets the alarm early to go down to kennards and hire me a jackhammer so me can dig a hole fast and deep enough to hide in... they're all good guys...anything with 4 round tail lights and a skyline badge lites my fire and i hope i haven't offended anyone

Hi Sydneykid; That was THE simplest explanation I've seen. It's daunting for some of us to try and unravel the RB30 thread particularly when there seems to be a number of people having problems. Is it as straightforward for an RB26/30 conversion in a GTR and do accessories ir a/c etc bolt up? A couple of us down here are interested and have found the following: the better shops want $20k for a 'complete / detailed ' conversion we can't get a response from RIPS re crank girdles for a GTR to address a problem we've heard of often - block cracking in the RB26/30. We're assuming there is a problem in this area and that's why RIPS makes, as we understand it, a modified girdle Is there any need to change gear ratios etc? We'd appreciate any info you can send our way Cheers

Hi Danooh; Mind if I ask where you are getting it fixed and if you're happy with the outcome? My compressor (make that the car's compressor) is making wierd ass noises, might be a bearing. My ass sometimes makes wierd compressor noises too but I'm not goin' there... Anyway would be good to take it somewhere that's worked on them before. Cheers

Stirlo the manual says that the best position is on top. Er, I mean from the top. Not telling you how to suck eggs but if you have any inclination to fit dump pipes do so now. Good luck hope it goes well.

Moo; the harmonics are in the disc. best way to describe it is to imagine the disc is like a bell. the interference between the pad and the disc sets up a frequency in the disc that we hear as a squeal. the two plates on the rear of the pad are anti squeal shims designed to damper the harmonics. sometimes they aren't enough. if you have a combination that is going to squeal, sometimes no amount of machining/bedding will fix it, as i discovered. sounds to me that the pads are the culprit if the squealing started after fitting them. you might try chamfering the leading and trailing edges of the pad, that sometimes helps. Or as I suggested just get some alternative pads from somewheer and try them to see if you can isolate the problem.

New guy out at F and F, seems OK to talk to and was happy to run a Consult check on my car for nothing. Was very helpful, just arrived from Albury last 3 or so weeks. Anyone been there lately? Mick I agree Glen is great, I just can't hack the boss there - Pat? Maybe we need to get Glen and Ed together, now that would be something.

Dropped a footpeg??? WTF??? Who needs to do some maintenance then? Makes me shudder just to think about it. Weighted footpeg, sharp bend, some speed on board...'what's that banging on the rear wheel...ummmm, that'd be my foot.' Actually she's lucky the front didn't lock = ugly. Anyway did you assist her in unwedging it by lending her your expertise in working in confined spaces with black rubber objects? Or was it the tyre and HER frame. Hmmmm? Come on, was it??? Someone told me there was a cutie on the side of the road with a MC and a dreamy look on her face taking long breaths on a cigarette soon after you left. That was me in the RS waving this morning but you prob figured that... Scooby

That would be excellent so long as we get to work on it too!! Thanks for bravely drawing the heat and then making friends with them in order to allow us to work some tuning magic on their pursuit car. Heh heh Scooby

Madmoo; If you've read the posts on squeaky f%^king brakes you'll know it can be caused by many things and that the squeal is a harmonic - effectively the brake acts like a bell. In my case retaining DS2500 Ferodo pads and swapping from two to one piece discs solved the problem when nothing else would. Sorry no experience with Bendix, if they are metal pads then expect some squeal, try some organic stuff - even if you get cheapies from a wrecker to see what happens and this might give you a clue. Don't whatever you do spray the stringy stuff on anything other than the pad backing plate. You didn't mention the history of this - has it just started, did it coincide with a pad change etc? Regards

Hi Rev; I trust you have done your homework on this and worked out speeds in gears etc. With an already short first gear in the GTR it's going to shorten it's legs further and for a work car - assume daily driven? - that might be annoying. I was actually considering going the other way to a taller final drive as an RB26 with minor mods prob has the grunt to cope. I understand Mercedes is going from 5 to 4 speed autos in thier big hitters because they have the torque to cope with it. No point changing gears unless you have to. Just my 2c. Regards.