jjman

Its against forum rules. you just have to avoid commenting on your own 6 yr old thread...

it is actually pretty resilient if you don't get too rowdy on it as well as keep the armourall up to it. paypal has now introduced 180 days dispute lodgement times now to deal with those c&*nts that know when the old 45day period was up and can ignore you ever if they haven't sent you the goods or dealt with a problem. Stick it to em mate. You can bet a few of the chinese verndors going out of business now from this (or heaven forbid actually deliver a product that is what they say it is)

oh yeah, they have it there by ultimate auto trim on ebay. looks like 590 can get you the full shebang these days. sweet.

yeah I did. It was ages ago tho (2009ish) and it was about a grand I think. that included all seats. gear shifter, hand brake, centre arm rest compartment as well as material for rear parcel shelf and door card felt sections. Also included "Nissan" embossing on the seats. See pics for results. I hadn't put the door card trim in at that point.

I used ultimate auto trim for my interior. Synthetic but looks and lasts very well and great value. http://www.ultimateautotrim.com/

iv always found it possible to get some s1 R33's for around the $50 mark off a wreck. Pick up some plastx or other plastic polish and see how they come up on the spot. Otherwise speak to a body shop that does light sprays (you can also get a light tint into the clear coat spray that looks epic) and see how much they want to refurbish them.

not sure but I would recommend going for second hand S1 headlights. You would be surprised how well they can polish up and even if you have them professionally refurbished with a rub back and clear coat. All at the fraction of the price of buying brand new (GTR) lights....

hahaha, I think we all have...

please tell me you have the min mods on ur car such as a full exhaust, FMIC?. Even beyond this you are strongly risking throwing the guts of the turbo down the exhaust. If you don't have these mods then she is not going to be happy after a few runs and Ill put a greater than 50/50 bet on u throwing the turbo... **do not recommend**

the right amount of work does this. which I would say falls into the category of owning and modifying and maintaining a GTST/GTT etc. This sort of thing (n/a - turbo etc etc) falls into the category of ultra tedious, more time working on it than driving it, endless gremlin pursuits and troubleshooting, more money than expected, and in the end its a registration/defect sticker abortion worth fk all. I cant ever see this being worth it.

that hard line connects to a rubber line that then runs across behind the back of the head/cam cover area and then does a 90 degree turn and connects to the water feed which is on the intake side of the head. Its a fun job to replace it but possible. I remember that my best friend in this job was a pair of very long needle nose pliers. From memory I even did I write-up of doing this job or commented on it in detail somewhere circa 2011ish.

black with the polished lip is the best for darker colours as well as silver. otherwise colour matching the centres to the car's colour is also a great combination. luckily for me my car was black so I got the best of both of those combinations I also painted my calipers black too. looked great.

RB25 swap time...

it is wonderful that you came to this realisation yourself. incidentally plenty of info from a search. you are in fact all set for a sweet setup after highflowing your R34 'OP6' turbo enjoy

wrong thread for this. otherwise might be wise to have it reconned that way it is all done and warrantied by a shop. 2nd hand air con compressors from R33 may well have been sitting around for a while and so you may do the whole job of putting it in and gassing it up only to have it not work. Its probably not going to be worth the hassle vs just taking it into a store and getting them to remove-recon-refit-regas- with warranty. It might sound more expensive but I think the home job will be a nightmare in the long run...

ah cool. so in twin format then for RB26 Search in the RB26 power results thread and you will find the best combination of mods with the right turbos for what ur after.

why do you ask? perhaps if we had a bit more info on the specifics of what ur trying to find out it would help...

they are not overly old then. If its in a shed that is their workshop then should be fine (nobody wants to work in a 35 degree+ space if they don't have too) no the little arrow is to point at your tread wear indicator (little bumps in the tread grove that indicate when the tyre is no longer legal if the bump is level with the tread). And yeah, iv found 32 to be the sweet spot for grip on lower profile tyres that ask for standard 38psi. Tyre life will be reduced tho. Otherwise, your spring rates are pretty stiff for the street and im not surprised you are struggling to get grip, particularly in the wet. I bet it slides pretty sweet tho? Beyond this, isn't it federal 595's that have the bad name as far as performance goes? Look thru this thread and see what others have to say.

Did you buy them from a reputable tyre dealer (should have been stored properly) or from someone who didn't get around to using them (may have been stored in the shed and thru summer heat). Otherwise what is the date of production stamped on them? (the oval circle with 4 numbers inside indicating week of the year manufactured and the year of manufacture) i.e. 2709 = 27th week of the year (July) and '09. Generally tyres can be kept for up to 5 years without any reduction in traction ability unless they are stored in an overly hot (40degree+) or cold (0 n below) environment. As far as pressures go it can vary what works best for the tyre but often around the 32 mark is the best for hard street driving traction iv found for 35 profile tyres (of course at the detriment of tyre life and even wear).

what exactly does it sound like? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtKMpKTZFYo otherwise are you sure it isn't some form of cam belt n harmonic noise that a lot of people experience? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7RvBYe1o4A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgKneqCQLi4

is this based on experience with other RB25's with similar setup or just your feel on this as the first RB25 you have driven? Nonetheless, 120 is pretty low. Needs more boost to compensate Incidentally how many k's on the clock?

are you sure its not just the usual lifter noise that these motor can develop when older like they all are these days? Im unsure of your experience with the origin of the problem based on your write up. is it your car n it just started one time or is it a car you are helping out on? did it start on a drive or on a start after sitting for a long time?.

It could be a lot of things, and yes maybe the release bearing. I definitely advise diagnosing it correctly before committing to major work or you can rack up some serious unnecessary $ without fixing what needs to be fixed.

maybe try to take a decent vid/ audio of it and also flesh out a few details like I said above. They are 15-20 yr old cars now and they do make many noises... Otherwise, one of my first recommendations to anyone purchasing a skyline is to go and dump the gearbox oil and put in some fresh high quality synthetic stuff. They are old cars and have probably gone a long time without an oil change in the gearbox or diff. Changing it will make the gearbox so much nicer and also fix many niggles in the synchros. At the same time you can have a mechanic test drive it and give you a recommendation on what the noise my be and fixes. Has the clutch been replaced/upgraded at any point?

u will have to give more info than that. Like if it is in all gears or just 1st. Does it increase or decrease with speed/revs. Are you sure it isn't the diff of a wheel bearing etc etc?