jjman

If you are reasonably handy with a spanner then -take the rear discs off yourself and then take them down to be machined -pick up a set of pads and put it all back in at once. Its a good easy job that will save you a few $. Also perhaps consider doing all 4 corners if you do really want a brake upgrade. Some new slotted rotors and decent quality discs (as well as a fluid flush) will enhance the braking. But really unless you are doing regular track days you should not need to upgrade R33 GTS-T brakes. They are pretty decent. They do have a pretty soft intial pedal feel/bite but sink your foot into them and they are strong and will easily lock all 4 wheels. P.S. when pushing the calipers back to get the new pads in and over the discs remember to take the top off the brake reservoir. Also, tho im sure it wont be in your case unless you do all 4 corners, I actually had to suck a fair bit of fluid out of my reservoir but that was going from old discs and worn pads to brand new discs and pads all round = the pistons were a lot further back in the calipers on all 4 corners pushing a fair bit of fluid back up to the reservoir.

please, no. if seen these should be killed on site- with fire.

Is this going on the timing belt change info from its Japan days or has it been done in Australia? (kms get wound off in the importation process). Is the 3" exhaust from the turbo back or just the cat convertor back? also does it have a higher flow cat?

See, even that helps us. Now throw down a location and some other interesting things such as km's n mods and we could be getting somewhere with you. Hell, even say the price and you might get some feedback on whether it seems like a good buy.

while we were being humorous/antagonistic in our responses it is somewhat of a response to the barrage of topics created that are so ambiguous or poorly thought out that to expect anything else is futile. Clarify what it is you want to know and why. It can help a lot and also mean the SAU feels like the site is actually existing for a reason beyond wasteful entertainment.

ok good to know. However, how many skylines really do have 'zero damage across the life of the vehicle'. I know a lot of people would like to think it does, but the reality of a 15-20 yr old vehicle... Also how hard to get off is the vinyl adhesive- the glue that would be left over on the paintwork after the vinyl is removed.

two things here. 1- a full proper respray is over 10k. under that and the rub back or other processes are being skimped on and longevity or quality is likely to be affected. E.g. popping out all lights and windows and skirts etc etc. 2- I have heard from a reputable source that in reality you cannot properly remove the wrap from a 'properly wrapped' car without doing damage to the paintwork underneath. And in that essence it would be more of a rejuvenating/covering measure to poor paintwork that a protector of good paintwork...

looks like he would be a brake rider and do 50km/h in the right lane. Avoid. Brakes will be warped and pistons gummed up with carbon. Also will smell for the next 4 yrs of BP air freshener tree.

yeah, that might be a long shot- GTR with the specific exhaust you note in vic that will take you for a ride. Also this thread would definitely not be the place to enquire. I suggest you do a search of the SAU threads and find somebody that notes that they have this exhaust and ask them directly. Nobody will ever get back to you if you just put out an open request...

exactly. and one mans drone is another mans 'deep and throaty but not to loud...' as I said, if you change the turbos then also expect more noise etc. I went from a stock turbo to a HKS 2535 on my GTST and the noise was noticeably louder...

so are you asking for the purposes of an NA or a GTR? from memory they are a bit loud. but also is regulated by the cats, dumps and turbos. all of which enhance the noise on a turbo car,,,

this is the N/A thread. Drone on a GTR has little to do with the world here...

well its not like it is going to 'blow up' unless you go down the 1/4 with the clutch spinning up the whole way. so really all you risk is finishing the meat on your clutch-plate (if it is nearly worn out), or perhaps glazing it up a bit. So as long as you get off the gas if the clutch starts spinning up you don't really risk damaging it/ making the car undrivable to get home. Don't do a burnout though, if the clutch might not be completely up to a tough task then a burnout is not a good start. At the drags my nismo clutch (rated for less than the power I was putting down :S) would hold fine but if I did a burnout it would slip on the run... Without a burnout I could still launch hard tho at 3000-3500rpm with a decent bit of slip to keep the revs there until track speed matched my revs...

yeah that will be fine. Its a difference of 5mm. THo it is in fact a bit better as the front could have done with a lower offset to be a bit more flush.

not all places stock Bcpr6es or Bcpr7es. usually supercheap and repco wont but call them up and ask and otherwise they should be able to refer you to a place that will. Beyond that, how do you have water getting into your coil valley area? this is not a good thing and worth sorting before you put in the new plugs...

the irony that the HKS turbos didn't like the HKS intake pipes... and all for HKS price too However, I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't something tune related that wasn't solved upon the retune?

agreed. what is the ball park we are thinking of putting out there people? full working condition good model HKS3037 pros with the HKS dump pipe and an intake pipe for $1000? any more is not worth it? -the reason I am making it such a low price is that you are talking about a 2nd hand turbo. It is a risky proposition as you cannot tell what is has been through nor able to work out if it is indeed in good working order unless you take it to a turbo technician for a strip down and check...

sorry is that a fully built 25/30 for $1000? if so what's wrong with it?

ahh, so its not just a matter of turbo choice from the multitude out there but also the fact you have an option for buying a good and cheap 3037? Again, have you been in the car it came off or in a car with this exact turbo on it? As has been noted before, many people have ended up pulling bigger turbos off their RB because its just not much fun for the street and their driving style...

search = awesome. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/120893-full-turbo-kit-rb25/page-2 otherwise, have you driven a car with a GT30x series turbo on it? If not it is the main thing I would say you should do. Of course we all want the most power but its the lag that is the defining thing on deciding a turbo for your needs. After driving one on an RB25 (HKS3037 ProS- unknown specific model/trims) I found it to be too laggy for how I like a street car to behave. Also I would go with a turbo now that is well suited to running E85 and set the response level I want on the turbo and then exploit the E85 fuel in making more power. With Hypergear turbos, or even GT3071/6R, where they are at now and vs the HKS tax they just aren't worth it...

The rears are 9.5+38 with a 275/35/18 tyre. So yours would be 9.5mm further out (16mm more offset -6.5mm less rim width on the outer edge). Also keep in mind my ride height (fairly low) combined with camber arms running less than .5 degree of camber- so sitting very straight. Fronts are 8.5 with a 235/35/18 tyre. They actually sit in a bit further than is aesthetically perfect but they do not rub anywhere under any conditions. Though it does in contrast also make the back and the dish look fatter Here are some pics from the front so you can get more of an idea what it looks like. Yes she WAS a clean car. I am assuming it isn't anymore as it was stolen last year and never recovered. I was praying for the scum to be found wrapped around a pole...

I haven't kept every post made in this thread in perfect memory. Do tell. And Why.

Agreed. GTR is a god. While with stock suspension and wheels/tyres ill agree that the GT (S/T) series in the R33-34 are a bit boaty, they really aren't that fat. They are usually in the vicinity of 400kg lighter than a HSV/FPV or even AMG etc etc... So iv certainly found that with a good set of coilovers and good rubber it really highlights that they are not a heavy car deserving of the boat title...

Damned right. and if you know what you are doing mechanically then there is no reason to get caught with an old dud (one of the reasons people stay away- due to the age). Otherwise with the right mods there is no reason they cant be made to perform and handle in a way that matches up to current high end cars (HSV R8+, Evos STi, M3 etc). My 1993 R33 GTS-T was plenty good enough in performance and handling (and looks for my tastes) after all of the well calculated mods I did. I loved driving it for over 4 years and if I wanted more I knew that all I needed to do was to put on even better rubber or a better turbo + E85 and she would be at the top again. I built that for about 25-28k (including the car). ANd being an older car you don't mind pushing them and enjoying them when u would baby or not take out a new and more expensive car...